MILAN, 18 MUTARAMA 2016
na ALEXANDER FURY
Turaganira ubudasiba kuri filozofiya yimyambarire, kubyifuzo byo gushira imyenda mumurongo mugari, wubwenge bukomeye. Yego, yego, burya, ni ikoti. Ariko bivuze iki?
Filozofiya yimyambarire ya Gucci-kimwe nibintu byose biri mu isanzure rya Gucci-byahinduwe mu mezi 12 ashize, kuva hashyirwaho umuyobozi ushinzwe guhanga Alessandro Michele. Basta kuryamana, kuri hangover ya Tom Ford icyubahiro cyimyaka. Imyambarire ya Gucci isa itandukanye, ibitekerezo rero inyuma yabo bigomba kuba bitandukanye. Uyu munsi Gucci avuga cyane abahanga mu bya filozofiya nka theoriste wa Marxiste Walter Benjamin, yambukiranya nk'inyandiko ikururwa neza. Inyuma, Alessandro Michele yikwegeye kuri kote ya Aertex, yitwaje ifoto ya Snoopy. Yatekereje ati: “Urabizi, Snoopy ni nk'umufilozofe.” Yaramwenyura.
Filozofiya ya Gucci uyumunsi yicaye ahantu hagati ya Walter Benjamin na Snoopy, hagati yumuco wo hejuru numuco muto. Ko utekereza n'umutwe wawe kandi utari hamwe nigituba cyawe birahagije kugirango uhindure Gucci ya yore, yari igitsina na 70, kandi gake cyane. Benyamini yashidikanyaga ku mwanzuro w'uko amateka yanditswe n'abatsinze - urufunguzo, ngira ngo, gusobanukirwa ibyo Gucci arimo muri iki gihe. Mu gihe runaka, twabonye gusa Gucci yatsinze Ford; hanyuma ya Frida Giannini. Noneho, Michele. Amateka arasubirwamo, ariko kandi yongeye kwandika.
Icyo icyegeranyo cya Gucci cyabagabo Fall 2016 cyakoze ni retread ground Michele yatwikiriye umwaka ushize. Yabihinduye, gato, ariko byari bijyanye no kongera kwerekana icyerekezo gishya cyo guhanga inzu. Ninde, niba turi inyangamugayo, ntabwo ari shyashya. Nubuhinduzi bushya bwimyandikire iriho. Ni shyashya muburyo imyambarire ikunze kuba-kubyutsa akanya gahabanye nicyahise kibanziriza. Baudrillard yigeze kubivuga nk'ingufu zo guhuriza hamwe no gutunganya. Ntabwo yavuzwe na Gucci, nyamara.
Ibyavuzwe ni za 70. Michele yagize ati: "70 'ni ishusho ikomeye cyane, kuri njye, ku kirango." “Ikirangantego gifite ubugingo-kandi ubugingo bwacyo ni bwo buryo bwo mu myaka ya 70.” Igitangaje, yahise ayita "jet-set," nicyo kintu cya nyuma utekereza iyo ubonye imyenda ya Michele yuburiri hamwe na brocade, nubwo amakositimu yabigambiriye abigambiriye asa nkaho umuntu aryamyeho mumaso-atukura.
Birumvikana ko ari igice kimwe gusa cyibi byegeranyo bya Gucci bigoye - byerekanwe hamwe nimyenda ya Lurex, amakositimu yinzoka, inkweto zometseho amasaro, hamwe nizuba ryanditseho kristu. Kurenza imitako ikohereza inyandiko kugirango wandike byose. Ntawe uzayambara - byibuze, ntabwo ari muri ubwo buryo bwuzuye. Ariko buriwese arashobora kwishora no kubana nayo. Ibi byegeranyo byateguwe gukururwa nabaguzi, kwerekana imideli nkigitekerezo gikurura ibice aho kuba igitugu, icyerekezo cyiza. Nta kibi na kimwe cya nyuma, birumvikana. Ariko rero, ntakintu na kimwe kibi muburyo bwa Gucci. Biratandukanye gusa. Filozofiya itandukanye, uburyo bushya bwo kureba ibintu.
Nibwo, Gucci iteye ubwoba, kandi ni umutaliyani. Michele yitotombeye ati: “Schiaparelli gato,” atunga urutoki ijisho rya kirisiti ku gice kimwe. Undi ati: "Natekerezaga kuri Walter Albini." Ntanubwo abataliyani bashushanya bahita basimbuka mumutwe. Michele yatekereje ati: "Hariho imyambarire yimyambarire yabataliyani, yamazu nka Gucci". “Dufite byinshi birenze ibyo abantu batekereza. Mfite ibintu byinshi mubitekerezo byanjye kuva muri archive, ariko sinshaka kuba imfungwa ya archive. Burigihe ni 'igitekerezo' mfite cya archive. . . ” Igitekerezo cyo kwibuka, kuruta ukuri kwamateka. Kandi Gucci muriyi minsi nta nkuta-idafite uburinganire, ibihe, ibihe bisanzwe bivanze. Byerekeranye n'ubwisanzure. Kandi ibyo, ngira ngo, kuki abantu benshi basanga bitera imbaraga, kandi bakirengagiza wenda ko, nkimyenda kugiti cyabo, Michele adatanga ibintu ahubwo yahimbye, kubyutsa, no kwisubiraho.
Michele ati: “Fata, ubigire ibyawe.” Yarimo amvugisha, kubyerekeye imyenda. Yashoboraga kuba yivugisha ubwe, ibya Gucci.