Reba igitabo cya Rick Owens Menswear Imvura / Impeshyi 2021 Paris.
Yiswe “Phlegethon,” nyuma y'uruzi rw'umuriro ushongeshejwe Dante yavuze ko yakubise abababaye cyane mu ruziga rwa karindwi, iki cyegeranyo cyerekanwe na Rick Owens avuye aho yari ari muri Lido ya Venice. Hasi ya Zoom yagaragaye afite ubuhehere kandi yambaye ubusa: “Mvuye mu mazi. Nibyiza. Biraryoshe. ”
Haba mu Butaliyani no mu Bufaransa, Ishusho nini yagiye ihinduka mu cyerekezo cyiza cyo gutinda - gukora hejuru, ntabwo yatembye - kandi ibi byari, nk'uko Owens yabivuze, kimwe mu bintu byagize uruhare mu guhindura icyerekezo gitunguranye umunsi umwe mbere yiyi videwo kwerekana. Nyuma gato yo kurekurwa muri "le gereza" Owens yagiye mu Butaliyani aho atakoze amashusho imwe ariko abiri. Iya mbere yari iyo kuri “Performa,” icyegeranyo cyo kugwa kwa 2020 yerekanye muri Mutarama ariko kugabura kwayo kwari guhagaritswe. Iya kabiri, nyuma gato, yari kuri iki cyegeranyo, kimaze gutegurwa. Gahunda yumwimerere ya Owens yari iyo gutanga "Performa" muri iki cyumweru cyimyambarire ya Digital.
Yabisobanuye agira ati: “Icyo gihe byasaga naho ari ibintu by'ubwenge kandi byiza, bishyira mu gaciro kandi byumvikana gukora. Natekereje nti: 'Nshobora ubwoko bwo gusubiramo ibinyamakuru hanyuma ntangira kubikora guhera ubu.' Iyo rero yari gahunda yanjye. Noneho ejo mugitondo nahinduye ibitekerezo byanjye… kuberako ibyiza cyangwa bibi, isi yamenyereye kubasha kubona icyarimwe icyarimwe - kureba ibizaza hamwe namashusho y'ibiboneka nonaha. Gahunda yanjye yari iyo gutanga gusa ibiboneka nonaha, no kutagira ibizaza. Kandi nyuma yigihe gito ibyo byari bigiye gutangira kumva ushaje. Tumenyereye kubona ikintu gishya kiva mu ziko. Kandi sinkeka ko dushobora gusubira inyuma. Igitsina cyavuye mu icupa might gishobora gusa naho cyumvikana, ariko amarangamutima ntabwo byumvikana. ”
Ikipe ya Owens yaraye ikoze ijoro ryose - “Nahaye ubwoko bwanjye indwara y'umutima” - guhindura amashusho ubona hano ya Owens abereye kandi yandika Tyrone Dylan Susman muri iki cyegeranyo gishya (ariko auto-Owens referential). Imiterere, cyane cyane iyo ugereranije na epic yohanze ya Owens yerekana inzira, ni, Owens yemeye, byimazeyo. Yavuze ati: “Gukora ikintu kidasanzwe, guhangana, no gukabya ntibyari kuba ari ikintu cyiza cyo gukora ubu… bityo nerekanye igikorwa nyacyo twakoraga kuri iki cyegeranyo, nkeka ko ari cyo kintu nyacyo nashoboraga kuzana. ”
Owens yongeyeho ko mu gihe ahanini yari afungiye muri coco ye ya lagoon, yagiye ayireba ati: “Nkomeje kuvuga ibyo Balmain yakoze. Kwerekana mu bwato. Natekereje ko aricyo kintu cyiza cyane. Ntabwo byari ugupfusha ubusa. Byari ibisigo. Byari byiza. Byari bishimishije. Kandi icyo natahuye igihe nabonaga ni uko sosiyete nka Balmain, cyangwa buri wese muri twe, bisa nkaho dufite inshingano zo kwerekana ibyiza mubyiza mubyo dushobora gukora… Duhagarariye indashyikirwa. ”
Rick Owens
Urebye Owens na Susman parlay hejuru ya "Wish I Woz a Dog" by Alien Sex Fiend, washoboraga kuba indashyikirwa no kwigaragaza muri iki cyegeranyo. Owens agira ati: "Nimwe mubyo nkunda ibihe byose."
Owens yavuze ko hejuru ya tanki hejuru y’uruhu rwa meshi ari urusaku rw’icyegeranyo mu mwaka wa 2012, yongeraho ko kuboha no kwoga ari ibintu bishya byerekana T-shirt ya membrane yatunganijwe bwa mbere mu cyegeranyo cya “Umwanda.” Owens yagize ati: “Mu byukuri ntabwo nabikoze nkana, ariko niko byagenze. Nashubije amaso inyuma nkoresha ububiko bwanjye bwite. Kubera ko nari muri iyo mitekerereze yuko tutazajugunya ibintu. ” Binyuze mu biganiro byabo, Susman yafashije mu kwerekana iki cyegeranyo, iterambere Owens yatanze: “Nemereye abantu muri bike kurenza uko nabikoraga. Mfite abantu benshi nzabaza kandi mbatege amatwi, ibitekerezo byabo biranshishikaje… Ariko icyarimwe, ngiye gushishikazwa gusa nijwi rirema ryihariye, ntabwo ari icyemezo cya komite. Kwikunda kwanjye ntigukwiye. ”