Gusubiramo elegance yubufaransa kumasekuruza azamuka, Bruno Sialelli yatunganijwe neza, asohora ibyapa bya Erté no kurambika kubikoresho.
Abashushanya benshi bakoraga bafunze bakiriye gutoroka, harimo na Bruno Sialelli wa Lanvin, uburyo bwo kuvura imideri bwari hejuru, coed yashizwemo ubwiza. Gusubiramo elegance yubufaransa kubisekuru bishya, yatunganije neza ibya kera: amakositimu yamabere abiri muri pastel yoroshye, ibitambaro bya silike na blouses hamwe na Erté yacapishijwe, yerekana imyenda ya polka-dot n imyenda yo hanze.
Yarangije kureba afite igitambaro, uturindantoki, indorerwamo z'izuba hamwe n'imitako ikomeye ya zahabu hamwe n'amababi y'indabyo. Yoo, n'amashashi. Yakuwe mu bubiko, igikapu gikomeye cy'ikaramu ni igihangano - gifite umugozi ufashe nk'igikoresho - cyashizweho na Armand-Albert Rateau kuri Jeanne Lanvin. Yongeye kubyutsa umufuka wisukari yisukari kuva Aughts yo hambere.
Isura y'abagabo yazamutse kimwe, kandi isubirwamo neza. Ikoti yambara yubururu yambaye ubururu yahindutse ishati ya V-ijosi, yanditswemo igitambaro. Ikoti ry'umukara, suede ryahindutse toni ebyiri, rifite ibara ry'umuhondo kuri cuffs na cola, mugihe ishati yoroheje ya silike yamera ingofero no gukenyera.
Umuposita wo mucyaro witwa Ferdinand Cheval yamaze imyaka 33 yubaka amateka adasanzwe yiki gitabo cya Lanvin reba na firime. Zooming, umuhanzi Bruno Sialelli yavuze ko yakwegereye Le Palais Idéal, hafi ya Lyon, igice kubera ko atari yarigeze abaho kandi yashakaga kukibona, naho igice kubera ko Cheval wabikoze, "yari umuntu udafite igitekerezo. yubwubatsi, wubatse iyi ngoro itangaje mukuboko, kuvanga mubisobanuro bidasanzwe, kandi birashimishije cyane nkuwashizeho ibishushanyo mbonera. Kuberako rimwe na rimwe, uburyo nkora, mvanga ibyerekanwa ntabwo muburyo bwubwenge ahubwo muburyo bwo guhuza ibintu biguha ibyo ushaka kuvuga. ”
Hano icyo Sialelli yashakaga kuvugana ni igice cyo kwimura imyaka icumi inzu ya Lanvin yagiyeho, 1920. Yafatanyijemo n'umutungo wa Art Deco ushushanya Erté kugirango ashyiremo bimwe mubishushanyo bye bishushanyije ku bicapo by'imyenda, imifuka, ingofero z'igitambara, ishati y'abagabo, hamwe n'umutwe w'uruhu.
Irekurwa ryagaragaje ko utubuto twazengurutswe kugira ngo dusa n’icupa rya parufe ya Lanvin ryakozwe mu 1927. Hafi yiyi Sialelli yahinduye uburyo bwagutse bwerekanwe, sinema nyinshi, kugira ngo habeho itsinda ryiza cyane kubyo yise "ubuzima butabaho. n'ibindi. ” Aha yashakaga kuvuga ko ubwoko butagira impungenge bwashizwemo uburyohe bwo gushimisha no gushishoza kutaba ibicucu: "kuko ni ryari kandi tuzongera kuba igitangaza ryari?"
Icyo nikibazo cyemewe, kandi muri 1920 haribintu bisa nuburabyo bwa Lanvin-intangarugero yo kuvugurura ubwiza bwihuse na hedonistic nyuma yintambara nicyorezo. Sialelli yizeye ko igihe nikigera, ibyifuzo byabantu bizongera gufata ubwato mu cyerekezo cya Lanvin.
Lanvin Yiteguye Kwambara Kugwa / Itumba 2020 Paris