PARIS, 21 MUTARAMA 2016
na ALEXANDER FURY
Buri gihembwe, bigaragara ko hari ibyegeranyo icumi cyangwa birenga Issey Miyake twe, abanyamakuru, ntitubone. Basibanganya ingaruka-obtuse kumurongo wingenzi muburyo bwo guhindura ibintu. Bakora byinshi byo kwinginga, kubyo bakunze kumenyekana cyane, kandi byuzuza byinshi mububiko bwabo.
Birashobora kuba inka y'amafaranga, ariko ikibazo nikintu kiboneka hose nkuko Miyake ashimisha-kandi, mvugishije ukuri, ikintu kenshi kandi cyoroshye kuvugwa nabandi bashushanya-ni uko urambirwa. Nkuwashushanyije kandi nkindorerezi. None, nigute wagerageza utitandukanije? Nigute ushobora gutanga ikintu gishya utabuze umwirondoro wawe? Nicyo kibazo Issey Miyake wambaye imyenda yabagabo Yusuke Takahashi akemura buri gihembwe.
Mubisanzwe, Takahashi yirinze kwinginga - nicyemezo cyubwenge. Ahubwo, yasanze imyenda yimyenda yinzu yinzu muburyo bwa tekinoloji yimyenda no kumva byoroshye - imyitwarire yo kwinginga, nta kuzinga. Kubwa Fall, yise igitaramo Neonomad, ihuriro ryibyatsi bya scrubland bikikije umuhanda utanga nuance yabanyamahanga. Yumvaga spaghetti nkeya yuburengerazuba, cyane cyane kurwanya inyubako zifatika za Palais de Tokyo, ikigo cy’abasivili cy’Abafaransa gifite izina ry’Abayapani. Nigute ibyo byurugendo bimaze?
Imyenda ubwayo yahumetswe n'imico itandukanye-iyo myambarire ya kera yerekana imyambarire ya roamin yagiye guhuriza hamwe imyenda ya Mongoliya, kugendera ku ifarashi, imyenda mike n'amajipo kubagabo, hamwe n'ipantaro ya sarouel, ipantaro yerekana amashusho ya exotic. "Neo" biti byanyuze mu buhanga bwimyenda yavuzwe haruguru, mubudodo bwa Takahashi bubyimbye cyangwa imyenda isobanurwa nkutagira inkeke, ifata imiterere, ikora, yoroheje, yogejwe, idafite ibyuma. Ibintu byose ubuzima bwa kijyambere bushobora gusaba imyenda - ububi bwurugendo rwiki gihe, byakemuwe rimwe.
Ntabwo nzi neza ko aribyo byavuzwe muri make na jarring jacquards yamafarashi (abanyaburengerazuba benshi) ibishushanyo byayo bisa na Ettore Sottsass uburyohe bukabije cyangwa uburyo bwo kwambara imyenda yo mu myaka ya za 80 ya sitcom yingimbi Yakijijwe na Bell, bitewe nubuhanga bwamaso. Nicaranye na nyuma. Genda-yihuta yikabutura mugufi mugufi nayo yari kugenda bidasanzwe (kubagwa, umuntu wese?). Ariko umufotozi Kenji Hirasawa utangaje amashusho ya thermochromic, yacapishijwe ashize amanga ku myenda ya Takahashi, ntabwo yabahaye gusa imitekerereze ya psychotropique, ahubwo yunvise umuntu muzima munsi. Umubiri wabo, byanze bikunze, ariko kandi ibyo bakeneye, ukoresheje imyenda. Bikaba byari intandaro yiki cyegeranyo kidasanzwe.