PARIS, 22 MUTARAMA 2016
na LUKE LEITCH
Bisobanura iki mugihe werekanye ibintu bitanu byawe byambere bisa numwijima kuburyo bwimbitse kuburyo abumva bose bashobora kubona ko ari igicucu cyiza cyane cyabatoza ba brogue-abatoza hamwe na bronze zifunze umuringa, zidoda neza? Igisubizo: Waba uri umunyamahane, wibeshya, cyangwa uri umunyabwenge-kandi ufite ikizere cyo kubimenya. Kandi birashoboka ko uri umuyobozi uhanga ikirango gishinze imizi. Byishimo kuringaniza karma ikomeye, muriki kibazo igisubizo cyari icya nyuma.
Izuba rimaze kurasa, ryerekanye icyegeranyo kizwiho gutera imbere inshuro ebyiri muri Berluti ya Alessandro Sartori. Yari afite abo bakorana benshi; palette ya Marfa (aho yagiye mu bushakashatsi), geometrie ya Judd (akazi ke yagiye kureba), hamwe n'ibishushanyo bya Scott Campbell (umuhanzi wa tattoo wo mu mujyi wa New York wafatanije). Kwiyongera kwa Campbell - inzoka zidoda inyuma y’ibisasu hamwe no kuzamura inkweto, ndetse no gukuramo gride ya Aztec kuri tatouage (impimbano) hamwe n’ibindi bikoresho bya jacket - byongewemo insanganyamatsiko nshya kuri Sartori-Berluti, kugeza ubu ituje. kuzamura uburyohe no guhimba. Kwishyiriraho kwa Judd byatanze imbaraga kuri jacquards ya gride y'urukiramende rwubwoya nimpu muri topcoat na bomber.
Byongeyeho-byongeyeho bibiri byahujwe na Sartori ubwe, nubwo akora muburyo buke, akora imyenda yabagabo ultra-luxe ifite umurage usanzwe mubyukuri. Udushya twuyu munsi twaba twarashishikaje Margiela, nyamara yari ikora kimwe no kurenga ku buryo butandukanye. Ikoti idoda, igaragara hejuru y'iri suzuma, yari ifite umurongo umwe, umwe inyuma, ariko ibice bibiri na lapels ebyiri. Ibi byatumye bisa nkaho uwambaye yari yagiye mu iduka ricuruza ibintu kandi agerageza kwambara inyungu ze mbi mu iduka. Ariko igitekerezo cyo kugira imbere ya jacketi - gutanga uburinzi bwarangiye ndetse na silhouette ikuweho - byari byiza cyane. Niba Sartori atitonze bizahinduka nka Gillette vs Schick: Igihembwe gitaha shitani ikomokaho izabyara ikoti yimbere itatu, kandi azumva agomba gusubiza hamwe na bane.
Amabara yari garnets yigihe gito, ariko yari afite ubutunzi bukabije: ubururu bwinyoni zo mu nyanja hamwe na raspberry byoroheje buhoro umugabo wa Berluti yaramenyereye. Kogoshesha byari ingero zabo ubwabo. Iki cyegeranyo cyarimo impande zose zishoboka kugirango dusobanure neza imyenda y'abagabo kuko hari umuhanda wumucanga wibirunga kumuhanda - ariko ibyo byatuma tuguma hano ijoro ryose.