PARIS, 24 MUTARAMA 2016
na ALEXANDER FURY
Nostalgia nikintu gikomeye, nkuko iki gihembwe cyabigaragaje. Niba abantu batabyamaganaga, babitangaza nkubutaha bwabo bukurikira. Kwibuka ibintu byashize bifite imbaraga zikomeye kumyambarire, aho ububyutse bwimyaka mirongo ihora buzunguruka muruziga. Ikigaragara ni uko Yves Saint Laurent yakundaga gato Proust-hari urubanza rwa Louis Vuitton rwakozwe mu buryo bwihariye bwo gutwara umuzingo we kuri ubu rwerekanwe kuri Grand Palais, mu imurikagurisha ryahariwe amateka yibiranga. Vuitton, ndashaka kuvuga; nubwo hariho inzu ndangamurage ya Saint Laurent hejuru gusa.
Imbaraga zo kwibuka ni igitekerezo Thom Browne yakoze ubushakashatsi: Yavuze ko Igitaramo cye cyaguye cyari, abasore bagera kuri 13 basubiramo club ya ba nyakubahwa mu myaka 30 ishize, wenda kumubiri, byanze bikunze. Kubwibyo, buri myambarire yagaragaye muri triptych: iyambere mumyenda; noneho urwego rwumubabaro; amaherezo. Buri kimwe cyagaragazaga itandukaniro ryimyambarire ya kigabo - amakoti, amakoti ya gisirikari, chesterfield yuzuye ubwoya - kandi washyizwe hejuru n'ingofero yabakubitaga mu maso. Ntabwo byari inzira yo gusenyuka, ahubwo byari bishya, gusubira mubyubahiro byahoze. Mugitangira, abanyamideli babiri bahanaguyeho umukungugu wambaye imyenda yashizwemo na club-y'abahungu, harimo chandelier nini, intebe zinyuma-amababa, hamwe nudukoni twinshi twa zahabu.
Muri Rec la Recherche du Temps Perdu, Proust agwa mu kuzamurwa hejuru yibuka ryatewe na makeleine yicyayi. Hariho ibiryo byinshi bisa nibitekerezo kuri show ya Browne: kwibuka utabishaka-ibitekerezo byavutse utabishaka, ariko akenshi bifite imbaraga. Mugihe abanyamideli bafashe umwanya wabo, umwimerere wuzuye uhura nimpimbano zimpimbano "zidatunganye", byari byoroshye kubona igicucu cya Dorian Gray-bitatewe gusa nibara ryubwoya bwa Browne akunda. Izo moderi zishamikiyeho zishobora kuba ishusho ye yamavuta, irari ryurubyiruko rukagaragaza sisitemu yimyambarire. Ntabwo twese duhatirwa kwibonera kubora kwacu muriyi minsi? Kandi igihe ntikintu kimwe nabakire badashobora kugura? Ntidushobora kubisubiza inyuma, byanze bikunze. Igihe cyari igitekerezo cyumuhanzi René Magritte, kandi nta gushidikanya ko hari urusaku rwibikorwa bye mu ngofero ya bokisi ya mask, gusubiramo, amakadiri yubusa.
Igihe nikintu abashushanya bakunze kugereranya nkibintu byukuri, cyane cyane mumyaka mike ishize, iyo bibaye byiza cyane. Byatwaye igihe kinini cyo gukora iyi myenda, nayo yari nziza cyane. Bimwe mubipfundikizo, birababaje, kandi nkana kwambara no gutanyagura nkana nta gushidikanya byatumye abadatunganye bakora cyane-bakora cyane-kuruta imyambarire idafite inenge. Browne yatekereje ati: “Rimwe na rimwe usanga ari byiza cyane.”
Wibutse kandi inzira zo kuva mubihe byashize, mugihe abashushanyaga bagiye hanze kugirango berekane igitaramo, kugirango bakangure inkuru binyuze mumyenda yabo. Nta benshi basigaye muri iryo shuri rya kera. Ahari ibihe byarahindutse; cyangwa birashoboka ko abashushanya gusa badafite byinshi byo kuvuga, cyangwa umwanya wo kubivuga, muri sisitemu yihuse yumuhanda ugezweho. Thom Browne yerekana buri gihembwe cyimyenda yabagabo; yerekana ibyegeranyo byabanjirije kugwa kandi yerekana imyenda yabagore mugihe cyibyumweru bibiri. Nta gushidikanya ko igihe kiri mu bwenge bwe.
Imyambarire myiza irashobora kuvuga kurwego rwinshi. Ramble kuri Oscar Wilde na Proust na Browne barashobora guhumbya ubusa (yarankoreye). Munsi yacyo, iki gitaramo nacyo cyari kijyanye nuburyo bwo guhanga bwerekana imyenda ishimishije, ikozwe neza, ariko ifite ibisobanuro byihishe byashyizwe muri buri kantu. Imwe kugirango ubone nostalgic hejuru, mugihe uri kwibuka imyambarire ikomeye yerekana kera.