Mugihe cyo kwizihiza isabukuru yimyaka 75 Mutarama ushize inzu ya Brioni yasaga nkaho yisanze kuri keel nyuma yo kwihanganira ibihe byinshi byumuyaga. Kuri uyu mugoroba wa 2020, i Pitti muri Florence, François-Henri Pinault wa Kering yateje ibirori byiza byo gusangira mu majwi meza ya palazzo yumvikanye na bamwe mu bahanzi ba muzika ba kera ku isi, bose bakaba barasa neza nkaho bavugaga neza mu magambo ya Norbert Stumpfl. ya Brioni idafite urungano Abruzzo ubuhanga bwo kudoda.
Hamwe na Brad Pitt ukora ubukangurambaga, ni iki gishobora kugenda nabi?
Byihuse kugeza kuri iki gicamunsi, aho antenne yuyu munyamakuru yatangiye guhinda umushyitsi mugihe cyo guhura kwa Brioni 2022. Kandi ntabwo byari oomph yavuye mubikorwa bya Stumpfl-kuko itabikoze.
Kurasa, wenda nkubwire, munzu no hafi yayo inzu yirengagijwe yurukundo rwingoma yimyenda yimyenda hafi ya Milan, umurimo wa Stumpfl wakomeje kuba simfonique sensibilité yumugabo wumugabo wifuza gucuranga wambaye. Imyenda, ikoti, imyenda y'imbere, n'amapantaro byose byakozwe mubudodo burenze urugero hejuru ya silike ya karuvati, bimwe byerekana amabwiriza yo gukaraba (byumye gusa).
Scalpel yacitsemo amakoti yubatswe muburyo bwiza bwa cashmere nubudodo bwiza, amakoti ya tone hamwe nishati mubudodo bwicyongereza, ikoti ryabahanzi bikabije muri blues ya Jacques Cousteau, imyenda yo hanze mumashanyarazi ya lotus yatunganijwe na nubuck, hamwe na kosti ya bespoke yamashanyarazi yambaye imyenda / ubwoya / silk yatanzwe. izindi nyandiko muri korari.
Nyuma yigihembwe cyashize zahabu itagaragara - ntabwo ifite ibara rya zahabu, ahubwo ni zahabu - yagurishijwe neza mumasoko atandukanye kandi ikagira aho ihurira na Oscars), gufunga kwa Stumpfl hano byari ikoti muri zahabu na feza indabyo-ish jacquard. ku kigero cya santimetero 5 mu cyumweru. Hariho kandi como ikora ku mutima cyane n'inkweto za feza zubahaga umujyanama wuwashushanyije, Alber Elbaz: Nyakwigendera maestro yari yambaye ikariso imwe muri zahabu mubukwe bwa Stumpfl.
Ibi byari bike gusa bikwiye guhishurirwa mubindi byegeranyo bishishikaje cyane nuwashushanyije.
Iyo nyandiko ya bum yavuzwe haruguru ntabwo yakubiswe nimyenda, ahubwo yakubiswe nibintu bidafatika ariko bisa nkibisanzwe: Ndetse ugereranije nigihembwe cyashize cyerekanwe aho wasangaga habaho umwuka mubi kandi ushidikanya kuri iki kiganiro - amashusho make kurukuta, couple mannequins, imyenda kuri gare. Igicucu muri iki cyumba cyerekana Brioni, ugereranije cyane na hubb yabana bambaye urugo biruka bava muri Balenciaga kuruhande no hanze.
Nka marike ya Kering yonyine yambaye imyenda yabagabo-kandi imwe yaguzwe vuba aha mubahoze ari ba nyiri abaroma-uyu wasaga nkigihe cyacecetse cyane mubisobanuro byatanzwe kuva grand, horsey hoo-ha yo kwerekana inzira ya 2013 iyobowe na Brendan Mullane kuri Castello Serbelloni.
Kwihutisha kwihuta kugeza ubu, Brioni munsi ya Stumpfl ntabwo ikwiye kwemererwa gukura bitewe no kudakora: Uyu ni umwanya wo gukomera, gukanda, no kumurika ku bwinshi ntarengwa urungano rwigitsina gabo rutagira ingano abanyabukorikori ba Brioni bafite ku isi iriho. byihuse kugarura ubushake bwo kurya kubwiza bumwe-bwubwoko bwambara.