Muri Giorgio Armani Menswear Icyegeranyo cya 2022 muri Milan ikositimu yavuguruwe muburyo bwayo, itanga igitekerezo cyo guhuza hejuru no hepfo: ishati ya nimugoroba ifite umukufi uhagaze cyangwa ikoti ya denim ikozwe hamwe nipantaro hamwe n imyenda ikozwemo ubwoya bumwe bwa pinstripe, cyangwa gilet-jacket hamwe n'ikabutura ya Bermuda.
Icyegeranyo cyuzuyemo urumuri rwihariye: ibikoresho bidafite uburemere, imiterere ikora neza umubiri, imyifatire ituje kandi idahwitse. Uburyo bwa siporo yimyambarire - ifite imbaraga, yorohewe kandi itinyutse - igizwe nubushake bwingirakamaro kandi bwingenzi hamwe namabara atandukana kuva mubururu kugeza kumusenyi wumucanga na chalk yera, hamwe na papa yumutuku nicyatsi kibutsa isi yibidukikije - burigihe mubwumvikane, bwa inzira.
Kuri Giorgio Armani, gusubiramo binini byagize ingaruka zikomeye. “Ku bwanjye, nize kwishimira ibintu cyane no gukora umunsi ku wundi, ntabwo nteganya cyane cyangwa ngo mpangayike cyane. Kandi ngomba kubyemera, byambereye byiza cyane ", yanditse kuri imeri mbere yerekana bwa mbere hamwe nabari aho kuva muri Gashyantare 2020.
Ayo yari amagambo akomeye yo kwiyitirira kugenzura, kandi impuls twabonye kuva Armani mumwaka ushize zabaye ibara ryiza kuri we. Iki cyegeranyo nticyari kidasanzwe.
Aho gusubira aho yagiye - monolithic HQ Teatro yicara 800 - yatumiye abantu 80 gusa aho byatangiriye: inzu ye bwite (n'icyahoze ari icyicaro gikuru) kuri Via Borgonuovo 21, aho bimwe mubyerekanwa bye byamamare byafashe ikibanza. Urabizi ko byari ngombwa kuri we kuko yarihanganiye abubatsi bashizeho imyitozo ya repetition yinjira muri idyll yo murugo ibyumweru bibiri bikageraho. Kera kumunsi, Armani yakiraga ibitaramo mubyumba byumuhanda wa palazzo, igishushanyo mbonera cya Teatro gifite imyanya 300 hamwe na pisine yegeranye yo koga yo gusinzira mugitondo.
Mu busitani bw'Ubuyapani mu gikari, uvuye ku gishushanyo cya Silvio Pasotti cya shusho ya Armani idafite ishati idahwema kubaho mu gihe cye cyo mu kinyejana cya 20 (Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Liza Minelli), yerekanye icyo imitekerereze ye itandukanye isobanura imyenda ya Armani: yoroheje, yoroheje, ubuhanga, kandi buke buke.
Yerekanye icyegeranyo ku bakinnyi b'icyitegererezo bumvaga bafite icyerekezo kirenze icyari gisanzwe, yerekana silhouette ye kandi arekura imirongo ityaye yumva uko 'imyenda ya siporo' isa mbere yikinyejana rwagati. Birashoboka ko aribyo imyenda yemewe isa na 21?
Ubushishozi bwari busanzwe utambutse ifasi yubunebwe. Ati: "Imyifatire muri rusange iroroshye cyane, kuko ntekereza ko twese twize kuba umuntu udasanzwe kandi twisanzuye muburyo twambara."
Armani yabisobanuye.
Yafashe icyemezo cyo kurwanya ikositimu isanzwe, atanga ibisekuru bishya - kimwe n'ibya kera - imyambarire igezweho kugira ngo abeho: “Yongeye gutekereza, ku buryo itagizwe na blazeri n'ipantaro.” Noneho, Armani yizera ko 'ikositimu' ishobora no kuba ishati nipantaro muguhuza imyenda, cyangwa ibisekuruza bya blouson-na-ipantaro.
Cyangwa: amakoti yimyenda nka Armani-imvi aherutse gukorera ikipe yumupira wamaguru yubutaliyani, ahumekewe na wardrobe yumutoza w'icyamamare Erzo Bearzot. Indimi mbi mu binyamakuru byo mu Butaliyani zavuze ko ikoti yatumaga abakinnyi bamera nka ba chef, ibyo bikaba byerekana gusa ko na Armani - inkingi y’ukuri - irenze imyambarire gakondo. Ati: “Ntabwo nkunda iyo abantu bambaye imyenda aho kuyambara. Ibi byabaye ngombwa mu bihe biriho ”.
Yakomeje agira ati: “Mu buryo bumwe, icyorezo cyerekanye ko ubushishozi bwanjye bwo mu buryo butajegajega kandi butagira imbaraga buri gihe ari ubw'agaciro. Kandi ibi ni byo nifuza kubagezaho n'iki cyegeranyo: igitekerezo cyo guhumuriza gihuye n'ibihe turimo. ” Mugihe impinduramatwara yimyenda yenda kuba hafi yumuhanda wa Armani-mini-skort yabagabo yatanzwe ahandi muri iki cyumweru yasimbujwe ikabutura yo mucyumba hano - ingaruka zicyorezo kubashushanya ziragaragara.
Nubwo akomeje guhakana ibyifuzo ashobora kuba agurisha isosiyete ye, nkicyumweru cyicyumweru gishize kivuga ko Armani yahujwe na Ferrari. Ati: "Kugirango nkomeze ikigereranyo cyo gutwara, ndacyari umwe ku ntebe yo gutwara. Ibi byose nabyubatse mumyaka irenga 40 mumwuga wanjye, kandi nakoze gahunda zihariye kandi zirambuye kubejo hazaza. Ntabwo rero bikenewe ko abantu bahangayika. ” Mu bundi buryo bwo kuva muri gahunda, yafashe umuheto mu ntoki hamwe n'umufasha we wa mbere, Leo Dell'Orco. Armani, nukuvuga, ntabwo atwara Ferrari. Kuberako mu gihe ashobora kuba ari mu cyicaro gikuru cyo gutwara, yongeyeho ati: "Ngomba kwatura ko ntashishikaye: Mfite umushoferi, kandi mpitamo gutwara hirya no hino kuruta gutwara imodoka ubwanjye."
Umuyobozi: @ amaranta957
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