Abafana ba mbere ba Riccardo Tisci, nimwishime! Kuva uwashushanyaga yagera i Burberry, abihaye Imana bahamagariye byinshi kuri genetics idahoraho mugihe cye cyimyaka 10 ya Givenchy: ubwo maraso atukura, urwembe, ubwiza bwa exotic bwahagaritswe hagati y’akaga no kwifuza.
Muri iki gihembwe, babonye ibyo. Yafashwe amashusho mu butayu bwo mu mijyi na Millennium Mills mu burasirazuba bwa Londere ya Royal Victoria Dock, icyegeranyo cy’abagabo cya Tisci cyagaragaje ubwiza butandukanye cyane n’umwuga we mu bitaramo bye bwite bya Burberry kugeza ubu. Hano hari umwobo hamwe namakara yerekanaga byinshi, ariko mumagambo yabyo meza, iyi yari Burberry yiga ururimi rwa Tisci ntabwo arubundi buryo.
˝Nifuzaga ko icyegeranyo gifata uwo mwuka wubusa wurubyiruko n imyifatire yubunyangamugayo no gutinyuka, ubwo buryo bwo kugerageza no gutembera. Hariho imyumvire ikomeye yubumwe ariko nanone kureka - guterana inkunga no kuzamurana kugirango tugaragaze ubwisanzure. Nimbaraga mbisi cyane zanduza, zishimishije kandi zuzuye ubuzima. Nkukanguka.˝
Riccardo Tisci
Yambuye amaboko imyenda yo hanze hanyuma yongera kuyishushanya mu buryo bw'abarwanyi, atunganya imirongo ya raglan y'imyenda ya siporo, kandi abasha gukora silhouette yo mu ijosi isa neza. Isahani yo mu gatuza irwana yakomeje ibyo biganiro, bimwe bigabanuka gusa kumurongo wizimu kuri t-shirt, mugihe imishumi ikabije yimyenda yakazi yahujije iyerekwa rya skelet hamwe nigitereko cyimbavu, igarura Memento Mori cyangwa Día de Muertos amashusho yibikorwa bya Tisci bikunze gukangurwa. kera. Azamura buri bara rya cheque ya Nova, yatwikiriye ibintu byose mumyenda yuzuye, yuzuye, yuzuye umukungugu wa beige, umweru, umutuku, n'umukara, hamwe n'ubururu bwo mu kirere "ikintu cyonyine twashoboye kureba" mugihe umutego gufunga.
Ibisobanuro bye kuri code ya Burberry-byubatswe ariko binonosoye-byunvikana nkukuri kumyitwarire ye, wibajije impamvu atanyuze muriyi nzira vuba. Kuri telefone yaturutse mu nzu ye ya Mayfair, Tisci yatekereje ku myaka itatu atuye. Ati: “Bisaba igihe kugirango uwashushanyije abone igikwiye mugihe ukorera muri sosiyete. Ku bantu bari hanze, bisa nkaho ujyayo… ”Aceceka gato. Ati: "Ni inzira ishimishije. Nitsinda rinini, birashimishije kandi birakomeye kandi biragoye. Rero, nibyiza ko twageze hano. Nyuma yimyaka itatu, umwirondoro uragenda ugaragara. ” Gukoresha ibintu biteye isoni ariko muriki gihe imvugo yemewe: Urabikora.
Amashusho yafatiwe hanze, abanyamideli bagenda banyura mu mucanga, bitandukanye nuburyo buke bwa Millennium Mills muri Royal Victoria Dock, London. Umuziki windirimbo wakozwe nitsinda ryabongereza, Shpongle, ucuranga mumwanya wose. Ubunararibonye hamwe bwo guhanga.
Tischi yahinduye ibyiyumvo byubwisanzure nubumwe, bituma habaho akanya keza keza k'ubusore, gashingiye kumyuka n'imbaraga z'umuziki no kugenda.
Ati: “Ugomba gusobanukirwa umurage w'isosiyete, kandi ni isosiyete nini, mu gihugu gikomeye. Buhorobuhoro, urabona ibintu ushyira hanze. Iyo ni yo nzira yawe. ”Tisci yabisobanuye. Iyo usubije amaso inyuma ukareba ibyegeranyo biheruka, urashobora kubona intambwe ku yindi byafashe kugirango ubone iri jwi, kugirango ureke ikirango cye kimurikire munzu yimyambarire imyaka ijana kumuruta.
Ariko icyorezo cyahinduye imitekerereze ya Tisci: “Numva ndi mu rugo, nubwo naba mfungiye. Isi igiye gutangira, kandi kuri njye, ibi byari bishya. Nicyo dushaka uyumunsi: imvugo, umudendezo, umudendezo wumubiri; kuba twe ubwacu. Ni pank mu buryo bwiza: kurenga imipaka. ”
Kureba isi isubira mu buzima - “kandi urubyiruko rwongeye gukurura umusazi!” - Tisci yibukijwe imyaka 20 y'amavuko ubwo yahungiraga mu Buhinde maze amaso ye akabona ikindi kintu. Avuga ku itsinda naryo ryatsinze iki gitaramo, yagize ati: "Nibutse ubwanjye bwa mbere mu Buhinde, hamwe na Shpongle, umwe mu ba DJ beza mu muziki wa trance", yagize ati: ibisekuru byabakiri bato kwisi yose, kuba njye ubwanjye kandi nkigaragaza. Nkomoka mu muryango ukennye, ariko igikona hari aho nashoboraga kwigaragaza kandi nkaba ndi ku rwego nk'abandi. ”
Kwinjiza icyegeranyo cye hamwe nibuka ryibisambo, ni nkaho iyo sura yongeye guha Tisci umwanya wo kwigaragaza wenyine.
Imyandikire: Ib Kamara
Kwisiga: Isamaya Ffrench
Umusatsi: Jawara
Korale: Josh Johnson na Tosh Basco
Abayobozi: Partel Oliva
Umuziki: Shpongle