Mu ntangiriro z'uyu mwaka, Fondasiyo ya Robert Mapplethorpe yavuganye na Raf Simons. Babajije niba yifuza gukorana nabo ku kintu runaka. Yavuze yego. Ngiyo impfunyapfunyo yinkuru inyuma yicyegeranyo yerekanye kuri Pitti Immagine Uomo, yatunganijwe neza hamwe na Mapplethorpe imurikagurisha ryabereye muri LACMA na Getty Museum, hamwe na documentaire ya HBO yiswe Reba Amashusho. Cari igihe gikwiye. Kandi Simons numufana wa Mapplethorpe, nuko rero yari umuhanzi ukwiye. Simons amaze kwerekana, ijwi rye rinyeganyega n'amarangamutima ati: "Nari nubashywe." Niyo mpamvu yahagaritse igitekerezo yakoraga kugirango akusanyirizwe hamwe (ntabwo yari guhishura icyo aricyo; birashoboka ko ashobora gusohoka mubyerekanwa nyuma) maze atangira ubufatanye bwe bwabahanzi.
Mubisanzwe, iyo Simons akorana numuhanzi, arabegera. Iki gihe, dinamike yari yarahindutse. Ubuntu bwitangwa rya Mapplethorpe Foundation bugaragarira mubuntu bwo gusobanura kwa Simons: Nta myambarire iri mu mpeshyi ya Simons yo mu mpeshyi ya 2017 itagaragaramo ifoto ya Mapplethorpe. Abanyamideli be bambaye imisatsi yuzuye imisatsi, bafite imipira yikaraga yimpu yikigina, akenshi wasangaga bafitanye isano itangaje nuwamufotoye - nubwo Simons yavuze ko, aho kuba doppelgängers yumuhanzi, "buri muhungu agereranya igice cyakazi." Buri wese ashobora kuba yicaye Mapplethorpe. Amashati yamenetse yari afite igicucu cya Mapplethorpe uzwi cyane muse Patti Smith kuri alubumu ye ya Horses. Robert Sherman, umunyamideli alopecia yatumye uruhu rwe rugereranywa na marble mu mafoto ye menshi yarashwe na Mapplethorpe, nawe yitabiriye iki gitaramo. Simons yagombaga gukuraho uburenganzira bwabandi-bicaye mbere yo kwerekana amashusho yabo. Yatangiye ibiganiro bivamo kwibiza kuruhande rwa Simons mubikorwa bya Mapplethorpe.
Ibyo bivuzwe, umuhanzi yicaye wenyine. Mapplethorpe yari imico ishimishije, kandi ubuhanzi ntibushobora gutandukana numugabo. Simons yagize ati: “Niba utekereza ku kazi, ni byinshi kuri we.” Kandi mu byukuri, byari bijyanye n'imyenda yambaraga. Mu rugendo rwo kwishakamo imibonano mpuzabitsina, amashusho menshi ya mbere ya Mapplethorpe yari yifotoje ya Polaroid, yegeranye n'ibikoresho by'uruhu, agerageza imipaka y'ibyishimo n'ububabare. Nyuma, yanditse ibyara bye bwite; uruhu rwerekana uruhu na BDSM ahanini. Imyambarire yari ikintu cyingenzi: Igihe kimwe, Mapplethorpe yatangiye kurambura imyenda yimbere (yambarwa) hejuru yimbaho yimbaho kugirango ibe ibishushanyo bidasanzwe; nyuma, yambaye uruhu rwirabura.
Simons izi ibyo byose. Kubwibyo rero kuba yarubaha Mapplethorpe yumvaga byuzuye neza, ashishikaye kandi avugisha ukuri. Ubwenge bwa Simons inshuro nyinshi bwatanze kwerekana uburebure-palette ye yumukara; cyera; igicucu cyinyama cyijimye gitukura, umutuku, nubururu; na burgundy y'amaraso yuzuye; dungarees yimpu irabagirana hamwe nuduce twinshi. Simons yamaze saa sita zijoro zinyura mu bubiko bwa Mapplethorpe bw'impapuro. Yarwanye n'amagambo y'Icyongereza kugira ngo asobanure ibyo: Yabise “amakarita,” iki ni igitekerezo gishimishije kandi gishimishije iyo gikoreshwa mu gushakisha kwa Simons, gushaka agace gashya ka Mapplethorpe, kugira ngo yumve ko ari ngombwa kandi ashimishije ku gisekuru gishya. . Nibyo yabonye uruhare rwe.
Nanjye ndi umufana wa Mapplethorpe. Ntabwo nashoboye kureka guhuza iki gitaramo na Mapplethorpe ashimishwa namakadiri, hamwe no guha amashusho ye ibintu bitatu-bingana, ubwiza bwibishushanyo mugushushanya no guhuza mumashanyarazi ya plushi nishyamba rya exotic, ugahuza amashusho nibintu. Gukora amafoto ye kurenza uko ashobora kugaragara. Simons yashushanyije amashusho ya Mapplethorpe akoresheje igitambaro, ariko hanyuma akayashushanya ku mubiri: ishusho yacapishijwe ku mbaho, vuga, irengerwa n'imyenda ya jacket, cyangwa yerekanwe kuri T-shirt munsi ya swater yambaye ubusa. Simons yerekeje ku mashusho y’indabyo ya Mapplethorpe yerekana amashusho y’indabyo, amashusho ye yerekana ibintu bizwi nka Debbie Harry, wafatiwe muri coronas yumucyo, ndetse nabahanzi Simons nawe asangiye na we, nka Alice Neel, yafashwe icyumweru kimwe mbere yurupfu rwe muri an idasanzwe ya 1984. Imibonano mpuzabitsina nayo yari ihari; Simons yashimangiye kuri ibyo. Ikoti yuzuye yuzuye ijipo yibukwa kugirango yerekane ishusho ya fallus ihagaze.
Yakoresheje kandi interuro "curation" asobanura iki gitaramo: "Nifuzaga kubiyegereza nko kwerekana inzu ndangamurage, cyangwa kwerekana imurikagurisha. Bikaba byarakozwe cyane iyo bigeze kubikorwa bya Mapplethorpe. Cindy Sherman yarabikoze, David Hockney arabikora. Ariko buri gihe mu bubiko. ” Simoni yubitse amaso. Ati: "Ndi umunyamideli. Natekerezaga ko ikibazo gikomeye ari ukubikora aho ntuye. ”
Ibice byo gukosora byakozwe mubitekerezo bishishikaje, cyane cyane mugihe mugihe abashushanya benshi bakwiriye kandi bakerekana nta nguzanyo - kandi mugihe abantu benshi baterera inshinga "curate." Byerekana imiterere ya Simons - yubaha, ituje, ifite ubwenge bwinshi - ko yabonaga iki cyegeranyo atari ibyo yaremye hamwe n'amashusho ya Mapplethorpe, ariko nk'ubufatanye busa n'ibirori, aho uruhare rwe, byibuze igice, rukaba rwiza kwerekana imirimo yahawe. Ariko kwari no gukoresha iyo mirimo kuvuga inkuru nshya, ishimishije, kandi ishotorana. Kutwereka ikintu gishya kiva mubizwi, kandi bigaragara cyane, archives za Mapplethorpe. Nta gushidikanya ko ibyo yabikoze.