Zviri pamutemo. Kufarira kwemafashoni kweChirimo kufamba-mafanana, zvechokwadi, ari kukurumidza kupera kutsanangura ziso rinotama, rinotenderera, rinotenderera revagadziri. Kune matatu kunze kwekuita, ipapo. Iyo pfungwa yekufamba kusingaperi haingori sosi yekurudziro kuna Kim Jones-inzira yehupenyu. Iye murume akabatwa nekudzungaira, murume akaenda kuJapan ari oga kanopfuura ka70 mumakore gumi apfuura, uye nenzvimbo dzakawanda kunze kwaizvozvo.
Kuchengeta naJones ibasa rakaoma. Zvakakodzera, ane basa rekugadzira zvipfeko zvevarume zveLouis Vuitton, imba iyo yekutanga raison d'être yaive pfungwa yemufambi. Kashoma kuti chii asi kupi kunotevera naJones, kana zvasvika pakufemerwa. Zviratidziro zvinogadzira seams.
Saka sei, zvino, kuti mumwaka unotevera Jones akasarudza kusatiza, asi kudzoka? Yake Spring Louis Vuitton show yanga isiri yekufamba-asi, yekuuya kumba. Muchimiro cheJones fashoni, izvo hazvinei nenzvimbo imwe chete, asi vatatu: Africa, kwaakakurira; London, kwaakadzidza; uye Paris, kwaanogara uye anoshanda iye zvino.
Idzi mbiri dzekupedzisira ndidzo dzakanyanya kuoneka: Africa, kunobva matehwe engwena neemhou zvoumbozha, macheki akafuridzirwa namaMasai, uye jira rakacheneswa nesavanna, rakapofumadzwa nejecha rinodzorwa nebuff, taupe, uye ecru (tinozviti. beige); apo London yakapa punk. "Panogara paine chimwe chinhu muLondon chakavigwa kumwe," akadaro Jones. Chokwadi, pakanga pane zvakawanda. Jones muunganidzi anodisa we punk memorabilia — mhomho yake yeVivienne Westwood naMalcolm McLaren zvakabuda kubva muBonde neSeditionaries nguva yavo ndeyechipiri kune imwe neimwe, kusanganisira miziyamu yakawanda - uye akaishandisa zvakanaka sechiratidziro cheusungwa hwakasungwa. bhurukwa, D-mhete, uye makora embwa, kunyangwe akapedzwa zvakanyanya mufashoni yechiFrench. Iyo imbwa collar, sezvineiwo, yaive yakachengetwa Vuitton maitiro, aiwanzo shandiswa pooches, anonzi "Baxter."
Aive aya asinganzwisisike, anachronistic crossovers akaita kuti muunganidzwa uyu unyebe. Zvakadini neAfrica macheki akaenzana netartan mune idzo dzakapfava dzakasungirirwa-matrews? Kana kuti izvo zvekushandisa zve punk zvakabatana, zvaJones, kune inoshanda chikamu chenhoroondo yeVuitton, zvimedu uye kusungirirwa kwehunde dzechinyakare. Pinky-tan bhomba muchimiro chinoputika chedenda remhou chaive chirevo chekare chinoti: Punk yakaita semakwapa. Kunze kwekunge, kana aya maVuitton anga achisvinwa, angave ari mune spa muChampneys. Zvadaro pane chokwadi chehunde chainzi "Plastiki Peculiars" uye pfungwa yokuti, mukutendeseka kwose, Vuitton's coated canvas imhando inokudzwa (uye inodhura zvikuru) yepurasitiki. Jones aive nezvinhu chaizvo mumutambo uyu, zvakare, pervy rabha migero yakadzikwa neLV monogram uye yakadhindwa nemenagerie yemhuka dzakashandurwa dzakanyorwa neshamwari dzemugadziri uye vakamboshanda navo Jake naDinos Chapman.
Kuuya kumba kunorevei? Kuzivana. Nepo iwe waisazoda kudaidza iyi yakakura hits muunganidzwa, yakaita riff uye inotaura nezvepfungwa dzakaongororwa naJones mukati menguva yake yese pamba. Iwo madhinda eChapman aive mamwe; muAfrica anotarisa imwe, yakatangwa paakatanga makore mashanu kusvika mumwaka, yakagadziridzwa nhasi asi ichiri kuzivikanwa. Apo zombie zoo yeChapman yaifamba yakasununguka, yakanga iri mhiri kweVuitton monogram yakafuridzirwa nepurani yepakutanga yekugadzira, yakagadzirwa muna 1896-mudzi wemonogram, sezvakangoita Jones akaongorora midzi yake.
Muchokwadi, ndirwo rwendo rwaakafunga kuti Jones atitore pamwaka uno-pasi pekurangarira nzira, yake neyaLouis Vuitton. Zvimiro zvebhegi zvakasimudzwa kubva mudura rezvinyorwa-Steam yakava bhegi; a '70s-duffel style inonzi Randonnee akawana tambo itsva; hunde dzeValise dzakabuda dzakagadzirwa muspringbok kana mbizi yemagetsi-yeblue. The homecoming element yakaguma neshow yainzwa, zvichida, inodziya kupfuura iyo label ichangoburwa kubuda; zvirokwazvo zvakanyanya pachedu, izvo zvisingadzivisiki zvakapihwa kubatana kwaJones kune zvidzidzo zviripo. Izvo zvakapa iyo imwe mhedzisiro, kune inobwinya inopenya yekukwezva kwechiso. Zvakaipa kudzika, izvo zvinonyanya kunyengera pakubata nenyaya dzakacherwa zvakanyanya kare.
Kurevera kwaJones nhasi hakuna kukwidziridza zvakanyanya sekugadzirisa punk. Yakaratidza izvo kupandukira kwaigona kureva, paimba yezvigadzirwa zvoumbozha yomuzana ramakore rechi21. Tsiye dzichasimudzwa - asi chimurenga hachisi chitarisiko chembatya dzeprothel-creepered, dzakachengetedzeka dze punk dzakarongedzerwa seVuitton menswear, asi mugadziri akapa rusununguko rwekuvaratidza. Munzvimbo iri kuramba ichizara zvinhu zveumbozha, ndosaka show iyi yakamira.