Samuel Taylor Coleridge's 1798 "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" yakauya mupfungwa patakaona show yaSarah Burton paThe Arches muSouthwark nhasi. Nautical motifs, zvisikwa zvengano, uye Edwardian tailoring akataura nezve rwendo rwakanyanya pamakungwa akashama. Kunzwa kwenjodzi kwaiitika kwaimbotekeshera kwakawanda kwezviratidziro zvaLee McQueen kwakakunda munzvimbo yakatsvuka mwenje sekuzevezera kunotyisa kwaipinda nekubuda kumashure kweruzha. Nekuratidzwa kweSavage Runako kuchiri kuenderera mberi kuVictoria & Albert Museum, zvakaoma kubata show yanhasi nekukosha kwechiso pasina kusungirira zvese zvakasviba zvekudanana uye pfungwa dzekunetsana kwemukati kundangariro dzaLee. Kana ruzivo rwaive mukukokwa, paive nemufananidzo wemurume wemutambi wetsiva weVictorian aine mazwi aBright Eyes akanyorwa paruoko rwake: "Kana zvese zvasurukirwa, ndinogona kuva shamwari yangu yepamoyo." Dingindira rekuva wega nderimwe rinowanzo kugovaniswa munzira dzese dzeMcQueen, Coleridge, uye Mariner - uye zvakare inoitika seyakanyanya kurira muunganidzwa.
Kusimba kwayo, sezvakange zvakaita mwaka wadarika, yaive mugwara rekucheka. Iyo yekuona chena yekuvhura inotaridzika ine embroidery yeVictorian pachipfuva yakaenderana nemhemberero yaSarah Burton yehunyoro yekupedzisira Fall/Nguva. Sezvinobvumwa, vafambisi vezvikepe nhasi vanga vachitarisika zvakanyanya, asi zvakagadzira nzira kune dzimwe nzira. Kadhinari inotungamira magiraidhi uye zvibatiso zvakashongedzwa mapyjamas akabatanidzwa nenavy pombi makora; simbi eyelets punctured oversized peacoats; uye mitsetse yemvura yakabviswa, yakarukwa, uye yakatemwa pamasutu echisvusvuro. Pakanga paine zvechizvino-zvino pakugadzirisa izvo zvatisati tamboona munguva pfupi yapfuura: mahemlines akachekwa, chiuno chakavharwa, uye kudonongodza (sehomwe) zvakanyanya kure-kilter. The show crescendo-ed in the last three ensembles with full-bleed during of enchanting mamonsters emugungwa kubva Medieval mamepu e16th and 17th century ingadai yakauya nyore nyore mungano dzaColeridge. Iyo regency jasi yakavhara show yakarongedza kuunganidza panguva yakakwana; kufamba kwakanaka.
Sezvo zvichienda, Burton achagara aine nhaka yaLee McQueen irikuuya pamusoro pemba. Asi hunyanzvi hwake mukukwevera moyo yevateveri vaLee vane shungu kwazvo, kuburikidza nemusanganiswa wehunyanzvi hwekufungidzira uye mutambo, unofanirwa kurumbidzwa. Chiratidziro chemazuva ano chaive chiratidziro chekugona kwaBurton kubvisa zvipfeko zvinonyandura izvo zvine nharo yaive iyo yekupedzisira yekubata basa raLee - kumwe kuuraya kwakatsetseka kunorarama zvinoenderana nekumira kweimba.
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