Valentino Men's Fall/Winter 2019 show by Pierpaolo Piccioli iri kuitika nhasi kuLe Grand Palais.
Piccioli aida kufunga zvakare sutu, abve kure nekuomarara kweNineties, uye kutenderera kune chimwe chinhu chazvino, chemahara uye chinoyerera.
Kuda kutama kupfuura zvipfeko zvemumugwagwa, uye kuuya nekutora kutsva pakugadzirisa, kwave kuchiwedzera mumaguta makuru emafashoni, neValentino mutsva wekunzwa kunzwa kurova. Pierpaolo Piccioli akaisa muunganidzwa wembatya dzemumugwagwa wemwaka wapera - nemaitiro ayo akabatikana uye zvinhu zvese zvine logo - kumashure kwake, nekuedza kwake kwazvino musanganiswa wakakwenenzverwa wembatya dzakashongedzwa nehunyanzvi, sci-fi twist.
"Ini handisi kuzotaura kuti zvipfeko zvemumigwagwa zvapera, uye handifunge kuti pane munhu anoda kusiya sneakers," akadaro Piccioli, achiwedzera kuti aida kufungisisa nezve sutu iyi, obva pane dzakaoma makore makumi mapfumbamwe ekushongedza, uye akananga. chimwe chinhu chemazuva ano, chemahara uye chemvura. "Ini ndaida kutarisisa kukosha kwekusona, uye kuita chimwe chinhu chakasununguka, chisingashande, sutu yaunogona kupfeka svondo rese uye pakupera kwevhiki, kana uchida," akadaro backstage mushure mekuratidzira.
Aidawo kuita democratise kupihwa kwake, uye kuvhura imba yemafashoni kune varume vatsva uye mazano matsva. To wit: Akashanda naUndercover's Jun Takahashi, anga achigadzira zvipfeko zvemumigwagwa kubva kumaNineties, pashoo yekatuni, mifananidzo yesainzi, kusanganisira kusanganiswa kwaEdgar Allan Poe nespaceship, madhizaini aifanirwa kuoneka mu Undercover show. gare gare Chitatu manheru. Akashanda naBirkenstock pane shangu, nokuti "zvinopesana nemhando ye couture," akadaro Piccioli.
Mhedzisiro yacho yaive yakashongedzwa asi yakagadzika-kumashure mutsara wemasutu, majasi nemaruko: Naïf, surreal mifananidzo yaPoe, dzimwe nguva ine spaceship yechiso, yaiuya yakarukwa pamajuzi marefu, ane kamuri kana kupendwa kune vatengi vematehwe. Mutariri wemwedzi mutsvuku wakajeka uye chitundumuseremusere chebhuruu zvakatenderedza mupendero webhachi refu remugungwa, ukuwo mavara machena aisimudza chimiro chesutu yakapfava, ine mazamu maviri ine mupendero wakapetwa kaviri.
Piccioli akadhaira pasi V logo uye imba branding, iyo yaionekwa mune abstract form pamaruko, kana kuyambuka majasi enaironi nemakepisi. Pakudonha, zvese nezve spaceship, pateni yaitenderera pamusoro pembatya dzekunze, kana kuputika kubva kumberi kwejasi. Iko kusona kutsva kwasvika, uye zvinotaridzika sei.
"Ndiri kupinda pamukova
Space Oddity, David Bowie, 1969
Uye ndiri kuyangarara nenzira yakasarudzika
Uye nyeredzi dzinoratidzika zvakasiyana zvikuru nhasi
Nokuti pano ndakagara mugaba
Kure kumusoro kwenyika
Planet Earth iblue
Uye hapana chandinogona kuita.”
Valentino Chirimo/Zhizha 2019 Paris