Kupa Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton muParis Fashion Week. Virgil Abloh akaremekedza Michael Jackson, aine seti yakadzokorodza vhidhiyo yemuimbi "Billie Jean."
Chinongedzo chaive mukukokwa - girovhosi chena imwe chete, asi vateveri vepedyo vaVirgil Abloh vaitoziva kare kuti show yake yevarume vekudonha yaLouis Vuitton yaive yaMichael Jackson, nyaya yechiratidziro chazvino kuGrand Palais muParis. .
Mukuru wezvipfeko zvemumugwagwa, ane zita reOff-White rakazodzwa rinopisa zvakanyanya pasirese izvozvi, akange asimudza chivharo pamusoro pedingindira muhurukuro nemagazini yeInterview muna Zvita, achisimudzira tsika yakagara iripo yekuvanzika pakati pedzimba dzeumbozha munguva pfupi yapfuura. - kusvika kune yavo runway kuratidza.
Vaenzi vakapinda mutende raive nerima mugadheni reTuileries, uko mucherechedzo wakagadzirazve kona yemugwagwa weManhattan husiku, seti yevhidhiyo yaJackson "Billie Jean" - yakazara nematombo ekuvhenekesa. Vaenzi, kusanganisira vaimbi verapper Offset, Gunna, Kid Cudi naSkepta, vakaungana vakatsikitsira.
Iyo asphalt seti yakatsanangura ruvara rwemuunganidzwa, iro raive gungwa re grey uye tani, ine isinganzwisisike pop yepepuru uye tsvuku - pamwe ruvara rwakanyanya kudyidzana naMambo wePop.
Pakati pezvaAbloh's new tailoring propositions yaive mabhachi maviri - bhachi diki rine elasticated waistband yakapfekwa pamusoro pekare isina maoko underlayer - uye Zoot Suit bhachi rine mabhatani akavanzwa. Kufarira kwaJackson zvipfeko zvechiuto kwakaiswa mumashishi akaputirwa uye zvigamba zvakaita secrest pahoodie yengamera nejasi.
Zvipfeko zvekunze, kune rumwe rutivi, zvaive zvakachena zvehip-hop. Sarudzo dzaisanganisira charcoal grey shearling jasi rine shaved monogram motif; kaviri trenchcoat in powdery crocodile-embossed nubuck leather, uye inflated black Monogram-padded lambskin puffer vest ine hofori inoenderana Keepall bag.
Paive nekuona chinongedzo cheAbloh's debut show yeVuitton munaChikumi apfuura, kuburikidza neaive asina kudhindwa aine mavara mu "The Wiz" - iyo 1978 remake ye "The Wizard of Oz" ine nyeredzi Jackson seScarecrow. Vatatu vezvipfeko zvakashongedzwa sequin-yakashongedzwa nemusoro kune zvipfeko zvemuimbi zvinonyanya kupenya, nepo T-shati yakadhindwa nemufananidzo wetsoka dzake dzakapfeka-akapfeka uye masokisi machena akapa rukudzo kune yake yekutamba.
Chokwadi, marofu aive shangu dzesarudzo mune iyi show, ichipfuura sneakers ayo Abloh ane mukurumbira. Ivo vakauya nematehwe uye grey flannel shanduro, yakashongedzwa neketani yekubatanidza yaari kumisikidza sechinyorwa chitsva cheVuitton. "Kwandiri, vanogona kunge vakanaka uye vatsva, senge chena yeStan Smiths," Abloh akadaro panguva yekutarisa.
Kupfuura chiratidzo chechimiro, aifarira zverubatsiro rwebasa raJackson, kunyanya "shoko repasi rose, kubatanidzwa uye rudo" rinounzwa kuburikidza nemapurojekiti akadai se "We are the World" anobatsira asina murume. Mumweya iwoyo, zvipfeko zvematehwe zvakauya mune zvigamba zvemureza zvinomiririra nyika dzechikwata chake che studio.
Patani yemureza weU.S. yakashandiswa mumatonal motifs pakutsvaira masiketi ekumoneredza ezuva, zvichiratidza kuti kubatanidzwa kungasvika sei kune tsananguro dzemurume kana mukadzi.
Chokwadi, Abloh akafuridza kuvhurika nharaunda yeumbozha kune vakasiyana siyana senge pasina mumwe mugadziri pamberi pake. Mukugutsurira midzi yake yezvipfeko zvemumugwagwa, aive aine graffiti muimbi Futura pfapfaidza-pendi panguva yeshoo, iyo yairatidzawo ma rapper akadai saOctavian naSheck Wes munzira yekumhanya, uye rwiyo rwepamoyo naDev Hynes.
"Copier c'est voler" ("Kukopa kuba") verenga tag pamadziro mamwe - meseji pasina mubvunzo yakataurwa kune avo vanopomera Abloh nekungotevedzera mazano evamwe vanogadzira. Imwe yakavanzwa mumanotsi eshow pasi pemusoro wekuti "Irony," waakatsanangura se: "Kuvapo kwaVirgil Abloh kuLouis Vuitton."
Abloh anonyatsoziva kuti vateveri vake vadiki havakwanise kutenga zvipfeko zvaanogadzira Vuitton. Zvaari kupa, pane kudaro, muenzaniso wekutevedzera.
“Zvakakosha kuve kugadzira. Instagram ndeyemahara. Ndinosarudza kuti kugara kwangu pamba kuvhure girobhu. Hazvisi zvekuva muridzi wechinhu chacho. Kwandiri, ndakanga ndisingakwanisi kuzvitenga - ndaishuvira. Ndizvo zvakaita kuti ndive netsika yekushanda. Ndosaka ndisingarare — nekuti ndinoda zvinhu uye ndinozvishandira,” akadaro.
Kana kugadzwa kwaAbloh kwakasimudza tsiye pekutanga, iri kutaridzika zvakanyanya seLVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton akaita sarudzo chaiyo: show yake sophomore yaive yekunakidzwa.
Louis Vuitton Chirimo/Zhizha 2019 Paris