Tisci akatora nhanho yekudonha, achisimbisa chiratidziro, achijekesa chiono chake uye nekudzoka kune iyo classy streetwear yaanozivikanwa nayo.
Nekuunganidzwa kwekutanga kuri kungorova pasi pechitoro, Riccardo Tisci achiri pasi pemaikorosikopu kuBurberry, uye aifanira kushanda nekukurumidza - uye pachena. Kune vanogovanisa kufadza uye zvitoro zvekuzadza, mazana mana nemakumi mana neshanu pasirese, pamwe nemafranchise uye zvitoro zvinotengesa, uye dhiramu repamwedzi T-shirt, hoodie uye zvishongedzo zvinodonha zvinotengeswa kuburikidza ne Instagram. Iyo kambani, iyo ine musika capitalization ye8 bhiriyoni mapaundi paLondon Stock Exchange, iriwo mukuchinja maitiro pasi pemukuru mutsva mukuru Marco Gobbetti, ane hurongwa hukuru hwekukura.
Tisci akatora nhanho yekudonha, achisimbisa chiratidziro, achijekesa chiono chake uye nekudzoka kune iyo classy streetwear yaanozivikanwa nayo. Mutsara wake wairatidza majasi akashongedzerwa ane zvidhori zvakanamirwa kumusana kana nemahombe mahombe ane furry aiputika kubva kumakora. Akadambura hembe dzerugby ndokuasonera murokwe, mabhachi edehwe ebaseball ane tumashoko tudiki sekuti “Burberry haina kunaka kwauri” pasi peruoko rwemvere, ndokupa shear kumucheto kwakasimba nematehwe ematehwe matema. .
Mugadziri wacho haana kumbobvira aita chakavanzika chezvinangwa zvake: Anoda kupfekedza munhu wese - vanaamai nevanasikana, vanababa nevanakomana - uye imwe yemhando yekambani nzira dzave dzekutengesa musoro-ku-kugunwe kupfeka kune mutengi. Tisci akataura neSvondo kuti Burberry ndeye "kusanganisira, kusabvisa." Chiratidziro chake chefashoni chakaitika paTate Modern mumakamuri maviri akasiyana, imwe yakasarudzika nekongiri, vana vachikwira vachitenderedza scaffolding uye cheni-link fence yakamisa madziro. Imwe yacho yaiitwa nematanda akangwara, anonhuwirira zvinotapira, uye aine pokugara seimba yekonzati yemhando yepamusoro. Mimhanzi miviri, inotora makumi emakore akasiyana uye mafungiro, yakauya neruremekedzo rweM.I.A.
Tisci akati anogara achiziva kuti ari kutaura ne "marudzi maviri akasiyana eruzhinji, ane mutengo-ane hungwaru uye anodiwa. Munhu akura ane zvaanoda zvakasiyana nemunhu wechizvarwa chechiduku.” Izvi zvinotsanangura chikonzero nei imwe hafu yekuunganidzira yakanangana neyakaomesesa yepasirese, ine zvakawanda zvekusona zvevarume nevakadzi, kusanganisira snappy wool peacoat siketi sutu uye sculptural pea girini jasi rine Sixties kunzwa. Paiva nemabhachi aiva nemagumbeze ane zita uye masikavha akavharidzirwa kumusana uye masiketi akazara edehwe, kana kuti ane mapete esirika nemashizha.
Tisci ane chiitiko chikuru chekuenzanisa pamaoko ake, aine zvitoro pasi rese zvichiri kugadziridzwa uye nyowani yakasarudzika neBarneys New York, tisingarevi iwo madonhwe emumugwagwa ari kuchengeta vana - vazhinji muAsia - vachifara musi wa17. mwedzi woga woga. "Kwandiri, Burberry imararamiro, haisi fashoni label uye inomiririra nyika," akadaro Tisci.
Achiriko here? Kwete - asi ari munzira.