Inoratidzira inonyudza cosmic yakagadzwa neFrench director Thomas Vanz, iyo hypercolored, hyperreal chaiyo Fall 2021 yevarume show yaKim Jones yakabatanidza Dior nhaka nehunyanzvi, kusanganisa akadzokororwa ekugadzira silhouettes uye acid-hued palette yeAmerican muimbi Kenny Scharf.
Kim Jones akange aronga kuratidza yake Dior pre-fall collection muBeijing gore rino. Akatarisana nezvirambidzo zvinoramba zvichiitika zvekufamba zvine chekuita nedenda re coronavirus, akachinjira kuChirongwa B: nzvimbo yekunze.
Chiratidziro chake chepamhepo chairatidza mamodheru anofamba achipesana nepakati pegalactic kumashure akaumbwa naThomas Vanz, director weFrance anozivikanwa nekuratidza kwake kunoshamisa kwenzvimbo yakadzika, achipesana neruzha rweDeee-lite. Zvipfeko zvacho zvanga zvisingaite zvishoma: Jones akatapa Kenny Scharf, ane mifananidzo yakaita sekatuni yakanyura musci-fi, kuti akweretese kubata kwake kwemavara kumutsara.
"Ndaida kuita chimwe chinhu chinonakidza uye poppy, nokuti zvinhu zvose zvakaderera panguva ino," Jones akatsanangura panguva yekushanya nendege kuParis muna Gumiguru.
Kunyange zvibodzwa zvakapa kutiza kwaidiwa zvakanyanya kubva kuCCIDID-19 kuneta, muunganidzwa wakadzikwa mukupfeka kwekunyaradza kwave kuita de rigueur kune mauto evanhu vanoshanda uye kushamwaridzana kubva kumba.
Jones akaita nyaya yakasimba yekugadzira kubva paakabatana naDior semutungamiri wenyanzvi wezviunganidziro zvevarume, asi akasunungura silhouette nebhanhire, jasi-sejasi uye jasi, pajama-style jacquard pants uye yakadhindwa mink slippers.
Mabhurugwa akauya akasununguka akafemerwa neyunifomu yemauto, ayo akadyiswawo mukati mejaketi ane mazamu maviri ane homwe dzekutakura uye epaulets, uye Harrington jaketi mune akasiyana machira uye maumbirwo, kusanganisira corduroy-like laser-cut mink.
Nebvudzi ravo rakadimburwa mundiro dzakachekwa zvinopenya kana kusungirirwa mumabhanzi akarukwa, mamodheru airatidza mafungiro emwana wekirabhu yeNineties, achisimbiswa nekupenya uye maumbirwo ezvipfeko pazvipfeko zvakapindirana nezvikara zveziso rimwe chete zveScharf uye psychedelic landscapes muZuva-Glo hues. .
Jones akasangana nemunyori wemifananidzo Tony Shafrazi muNew York City nguva pfupi yadarika, izvo zvakaita kuti afunge nezve ngano yedhorobha yemifananidzo yeEighties, apo Scharf, Keith Haring naJean-Michel Basquiat vakaunza hunyanzvi hwemumugwagwa mumakamuri emifananidzo uye mamuseum.
Akaita kudyidzana kwepamusoro-soro nevatambi chinhu chepakati chemaitiro ake edhizaini kuDior, achiburitsa chimiro chitsva cheunyanzvi hwekuunganidza: zvidimbu-zvakagadzirwa zvinoda hute couture-giredhi hunyanzvi.
Imba yeumbozha yekuFrance yakanyorera musangano wakasarudzika muChina kuti uruke pendi yaScharf muna 1984 "Apo Nyika Dzakabatana" pahembe, vachishandisa nzira yekusona mhodzi yakatanga kubva kudzinza rechitatu reHan. Kumusoro kwaida maawa 7 000 ekushanda kwemazuva makumi mapfumbamwe nemashanu.
Nzira imwe cheteyo yakashandiswa kumabhandi esashi akarukwa, akafemerwa nemifananidzo ichangoburwa yaScharf "LA Blobz" uye "Koz," iyo yakawedzera isingatarisirwe pop yekufungidzira kuzvinhu zvakaita sesutu yekhaki.
Jones akati zvidimbu izvi hazvisi zvekuratidzira chete, sezvo vatengi vazhinji vachikwezvwa nechimiro chavo chechitendero. “Vanhu vanoda zvinhu zvinokosha,” akadaro. “Kunyangwe vasina kudzipfeka, vanadzo. Unogona kuigadzira, unogona kuiisa pamadziro.
Kazhinji mufambi anomanikidzira, Jones anofarira kudzosa mienzaniso yeunyanzvi hweko kuti awedzere kudura rake guru rezvipfeko. Akanyorera shamwari yake, aimbove mugadziri weShanghai Tang Victoria Tang-Owen, kuti amubatsire kuwana mhizha chaidzo muChina.
"Ndaida kuremekedza pfungwa yekutarisa hunyanzvi kubva kumativi ese enyika, nekuti vanhu vanotaura nezve 'yakagadzirwa kuChina' nenzira isina kunaka, asi chokwadi hunyanzvi hwavanahwo hwakazara," akadaro.
Mharidzo yepamhepo yekuunganidzwa kwaDior, ine Kenny Scharf's cartoonish sci-fi pendi, yakaiswa mune galaxy kure, kure.
Panzvimbo yekuratidzira, Dior akaita bato rekuona muBeijing pamberi pevamiriri venzvimbo. Pakati pekutengesa kunochiva kwakanangana nemusika uri kusimukira weChinese kwaive nemisoro ine dudziro yaScharf yeChinese Zodiac zviratidzo, uye zvishongo zvejade zvakagadzirwa naYoon Ahn.
Jones akataura kuti Gen Z vechidiki vakagadzira kuravira kwehombodo dzevakadzi vekare, saka pakanga paine mitsva yeDior Saddle bhegi mune neon pink uye yegirinhi ngwena dehwe. "Isu taingoda kutamba kwekuedza kubuda mune izvi, patave panguva ino," akadaro.
Akataura kuti Christian Dior akatanga zita iri muna 1946, sezvo Europe yaive matongo kubva kuHondo Yenyika II. Kukunda matambudziko ari muDNA yemhando, sekutaura. Scharf zvakare akapona: nepo Haring naBasquiat vakakundwa neAIDS nemishonga, zvichiteerana, achiri kupfapfaidza-kupenda murals pazera re62 - chiyeuchidzo chakakodzera chekuti hupenyu hunoenderera.