Nguo dzinova dzechokwadi dzisina murume kana murume kuburikidza nekudzikira naJohn Galliano weMaison Margiela Yakagadzirira Kupfeka Kudonha / Nguva Yechando 2019 Paris.
"Swan Lake" yakazvimba kubva kuvatauri pashoo neChitatu semamodheru akateedzana akaratidzira hupfumi hwehunyanzvi hwekusona hwakapetwa nemadhindi uye magadzirirwo.
John Galliano akazviwana zvisizvo mukukurukura kuunganidza kwake kwekudonha kweMaison Margiela. Muchikamu chazvino che "Memory of.. ." podcast yaanofamba kuburikidza nekurudziro uye maitiro anopinda muunganidzwa wega wega, anovhara neinonaka inorira one-liner. "Hazvisi zvekupedzisira chigadzirwa. Ndirwo rwendo."
Ehezve, rwendo rwekuongorora, kuwanikwa uye kuona kwakakosha, kunyanya kune yechokwadi kugadzira seGalliano. Asi iyi ndiyo fashoni, uye chigadzirwa chekupedzisira zvipfeko. Izvo zvavanotaridzika pamutsara wekupedzisira zvine basa rakakura, zvirinani kune avo vanofarira kutengeserana. Galliano's dzaive dzakanaka - dzine simba uye dzakagadzirwa zvakanaka muminimalism yakaoma iyo yaakabvisa kubva mumusoro-inotenderera yekunzwa kuremerwa iyo yairatidza kupamba kwake mukuora muunganidzwa wake waNdira Artisanal.
Panzvimbo pekuti vataure pamusoro pekuwanda kwakashata kwemwaka yakati wandei, sezvave zvakaita m.o yake. neyakapfuura motifs, Galliano akamhanyisa maitiro kusvika pakugadziriswa. Mune podcast, anotaura nezve nzira isingadzivisiki yekuora, kubva mukuwedzeredza kusvika pakuora mukutsvaga kwechokwadi kutsvakwa neMireniyamu. Kuburikidza nekuderera, zvinhu zvenyama zvinogona kuderedzwa kusvika pamwoyo wavo wakachena, uye ndiyo yaive nzira yake pano. Mazvinzwisisa here?
Handizvo zvoga. Ruzha rwaiti "Swan Lake." Ndizvo zvakaitawo Galliano mune podcast yake, kunyangwe uchichengetera chinhu kana zviviri, iwe haungave neruzivo pasina ake ekutaura Cliff Notes. (Iyo inonyanya kubatanidzwa: jasi jena mutsago, rakafuridzirwa nebhegi rechiratidzo chechiratidzo uye rakaputirwa nechivharo chekushambira, chakapfekwa nemurume sechikamu cheGalliano's gender-neutral crusade).
Izvo muunganidzwa waive chaiwo nezve: hembe dzakanaka, dzemubereko wepamusoro izvo, zvakaburitswa kubva kucacophony yekuwandisa kwecouture, zvakazvikudza zvakaratidzira zvivakwa zvavo zveunyanzvi.
Kazhinji izvi zvaisanganisira kusona kwemusoni, iyo yakashanda sechinhu chekushongedza uye chiyeuchidzo cheunyanzvi hwepamusoro hunobatanidzwa mukugadzira zvipfeko izvi. Mazhinji emutsetse aive akasviba, achifurira kunyange, aine ratidziro yeYohji pesvedzero mune akasimba silhouettes akagadzirwa echinyakare varume vanopfeka tweeds, flannels uye herringbones.
Chitarisiko chaive pane silhouette, uye iyo yakagadziridzwa-yakavakwa patsva nzira Galliano ane yekuchinja jasi reflannel murokwe kana bhurugwa rekutasva kuita bustier uye siketi.
Asi zvaive zvakare pamusoro pezvinoshandura zvingangoitika zvezvakananga zvinhu zvekuvaka: nzira iyo yakatenuka fudzi redema rakanzwa Crombie jasi rakagadzira tapered dome chimiro; kana kuti sei sleeve mumucheka wakasiyana uye yakawedzera zviyero, yakareba uye yakazara kupfuura yaitarisirwa, yakashandurwa majasi uye jaketi kubva kune yekare kusvika kumafashoni; kana nzira jira kuruboshwe-munda akatora kujairika trope kumwe kutsva. Bhachi dema dema risingazivikanwe? Iwe bhecha, mune quilted chiffon pamusoro chena wadding, yakapfekwa pamusoro dema Mackintosh jasi.
Asi kuunganidza uku kwaisangova kwevane mwero. Mamwe anotaridzika akashanda misiyano mikuru, motif yakaunzwa nekungwara mune runako rwechipfeko, dema neoprene pamberi uye yakarukwa yegrey lace kumashure. Pfungwa iyi: tsika dzinokanganisa, uye Galliano akapinda zvese nekuisa mapepa akadhindwa ane inopisa pink flamingo (famba pamusoro, iwe haute blue poodles) pamberi pechipfeko cheherringbone uye majasi ekumashure nemabhachi. Uye chii chakanyanya kutsika kupfuura jasi revarume reHarris tweed? Galliano chete ndiye akaicheka mupfupi, bhachi rebhokisi, jira rayo rakashongedzwa neflamingo rakafanana nebhurugwa rejacquard rakatsiga neganda uye bhutsu dzematehwe, uye inopfekwa nemurume ari muGalliano's isina gender universe.
Chimiro chese chaive chekudzikama kwakasimba, asi mukati mazvo, Galliano akatsvinyira, dzimwe nguva achitora hembe nevateereri vake kumhepo yekupenga. Munhu anogona zvechokwadi kutenga mukutsvaga kwake kuti awane chokwadi mukuora; hapana ane hunyanzvi kupfuura iye papfungwa dzakadzama musings. Kana kuti munhu aingonzwa kunakidzwa kwekuwana iyo jasi rakakwana rekutenga kudonha kunotevera uye kuve nekusingaperi. Chero nzira, rwendo rwaGalliano uye chigadzirwa chekupedzisira chakakodzera rwendo.