VaDemna Gvasalia vakaratidza muunganidzwa unokatyamadza waakati waive nzira kune vanhu vanoshanda, asi vamwe vakaona zvematongerwo enyika.
“Simudza girazi rako kuvanhu vanoshanda nesimba,” Joan Baez akaimba makore akawanda apfuura. Demna Gvasalia aive nevanhu vaishanda mupfungwa dzake paaigadzira muunganidzwa wake weBalenciaga - uye paakairatidza munzira yekumhanya neSvondo mangwanani. Muunganidzwa, chirongwa chake chinoti, "inofungidzira kupfekedza basa: kupfeka simba, zvisinei kuti munhu anoita sei sebasa."
Kuti ataure pfungwa yake, kukanda kwake kwakasiyana-siyana kwaisanganisira vanhu vanobva kumabasa akasiyana-siyana uye turakiti redzidzo, kunyange kana, kusiyana nemhando dzaJoan dzemunyu-wenyika, Gvasalia's lineup yakazununguka zvikuru collar chena (mechanical engineer, private equity associate, law student), uye kazhinji kugadzira (mugadziri, gallerist, stylist, violinist). Uye hongu modhi, kunze kwekunge musikana mune iyo yakapwanyika velvet getup yaive chidiki hembe pamberi uye bhasikoro zvikabudura kumashure ingori ringer yaBella Hadid. Vazhinji mushoo iyi vaive shamwari dzake.
Vakafamba inonakidza, ine-tier elliptical gungano-seti Gvasalia yaakaisa paLa Cité du Cinéma movie studios, zvese zvakafukidzwa nevelvet - maira-yakakwira uriri-kusvika-kudenga maketeni, kapeti, mazana emacheya anotenderera kumusoro. Yakaitwa muEU yebhuruu, iyo nzvimbo yainzwa ichimanikidza, kukoka uye mhemberero zvese kamwechete; mumwe anogona kuifungidzira senzvimbo yeimwe musangano mukuru.
Kutaura zvazviri, pane zvakawanda zvaiitika munharaunda yeGvasalia spherical domain, uye vamwe vaiva muvateereri vakaona kunyomba kwezvematongerwe enyika kweU.S.: zvipfeko zvemasimba - Ivanka; diva outerwear - Melania; hyper puffed-up parks - ari bloviating Donald Trump.
Gvasalia aizobvuma kuti hapana chidimbu chakadaro (kunyangwe akataura kuti akadzidza chimiro chechiratidzo chisingafungidzike, Angela Merkel). Pane kudaro, muhurukuro yepostshow, akati meseji yake yaive yekupfeka yunifomu. "Zvakafanana nefashoni seunifomu kwandiri," akadaro. "Senge, ndinoedza kufungidzira uye kugadzira iyi yunifomu inoyevedza."
Chete pakanga paine kusafanana kudiki kune hukuru hukuru hwekumanikidza, kazhinji akashinga mazano aaipa kune vakadzi nevarume, kubva pakushongedza akakwenenzverwa kuenda kune zvipfeko zvebasa kusvika kumabhero. Zvakare, kana ne "yunifomu" aireva chiziviso chakanyanya cheBalenciaga chaange achigadzira kubva paakasvika, yaivepo mumapoka - mune zvipfeko zvemumigwagwa zvakakwirira, izvo zvaakati hazvina kufa kana maitiro, asi ikozvino chikamu chefashoni. ; mukushamisira nekugadzirisa marogo, uye kunyanya muhuwandu, hombe, hombe, hombe. Akatanga nehembe dzakachena dzevakadzi nevarume muzvikamu zvakavhurika kune dudziro mbiri -- fashoni kana frump. Hazvina kudaro mapfupi, akachekwa-chekwa boss lady madhirezi uye masiketi masutu ane mapendekete kunze uko - chete ivo havafanirwe kudaro. Gvasalia akagadzira mutsara une corsetry boning inobvisika, ichibvumira pfudzi kuti riwire mune izvo munhu anofungidzira kuti ingave yakapfava yakadhonzwa arc.
Kuti izvozvo zviitike, pakati pehukama hwake hwemaumbirwo ekunze uye nhaka yaCristóbal Balenciaga, Gvasalia anoda kuve wake uye nekuramba achisundidzira, "nepazvinogona kuenda maererano nekuyedza vhoriyamu: akadaro. "Izvi ndizvo zvandinonzwa kuti chinangwa changu chave paBalenciaga, kuramba ndichiyedza vhoriyamu."
Uye kwete chete masikati. Gvasalia airatidza mabhara mahombe akati wandei, masiketi awo asingazungunuke pamusoro pemakirinoni mahombe akaita sebhero. Vaitarisa - uye vanoita sevanoyangarara - senge vane animated Disney princess, asi vakafemerwa nerekare reCristóbal referensi yakavakirwa paSpanish pendi.
Balenciaga Yakagadzirira Kupfeka Fall/Winter 2019 Paris
Asi sunungura macrinolines, uye masiketi anowira mune yaakadana kuti "A-line neo-Gothic dress. I wanted to make something new of it,” akadaro Gvasalia. Funga kuti yaitwa, mune imwe yeanonyanya kufadza, mitsva yakaunganidzwa yemwaka.