Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Salzburg
Karl Lagerfeld akasveta nepakamera roll pa iPhone 6 yake uye akavheneka mufananidzo uchangoburwa: Mugadziri weGerman ari mukomana akapfeka lederhosen. “Semwana hapana chimwe chandaipfeka,” akadaro achikwenya.Mabhurukwa edehwe akafuridzira cheeky nyowani Chanel handbag, iyo inodonha-kumberi inobhururuka yakashandurwa kuita zippered pouch iyo inogona kuita hove ye lipstick chiitiko chinokwenya.
“Unofanira kubvuma kuti zvinosetsa, pamuganhu wetsvina. Asi zvine musoro, "Lagerfeld akadaro achifara panguva yekutarisisa kwake kwazvino kuunganidzwa kweMétiers d'arts, inonzi Paris-Salzburg.
Nekupa hupenyu hutsva kune chimiro cheAlpine, Lagerfeld anoendesa mberi nhaka yezita remumba Gabrielle Chanel, uyo akawana kurudziro yeimwe yeakanakisa uye inogarisa dhizaini mune yakasiyana-trim, bhachi rehomwe ina rinopfekwa neanosimudza mutyairi weSalzburg's. yakasarudzika Mittersall hotera. Muridzi wayo panguva iyoyo, Baron Hubert von Pantz, aive mudiwa waChanel mumakore makumi matatu, uye kudzoka kwake kunzvimbo iyi makumi maviri emakore gare gare kwaive kwakapusa.
"Mumakore makumi mashanu, akadzoka pano, ndiwo maonero aakaita jekete iri uye ndizvo chaizvo kuti jaketi reChanel rakazvarwa sei," Lagerfeld akatsanangura nemusi weMuvhuro paakaisa mapeji ekuunganidza. "Unotarisa Chanel mumakumi maviri nemakumi matatu uye pakanga pasina zvakadai."
Lagerfeld akafora achitora mavhezheni matsva ejaketi reChanel - uye blizzard yemajuzi ane chando uye bhurauzi - panguva yemitambo mitatu yemitambo paRococo palace Schloss Leopoldskron. Chiratidziro chakatora zvinhu zvakajairika zveTyrolean, zvakashongedzwa nezera ranhasi, padanho repasirese fashoni.
"Zvakaitwa zvakanaka, masanganisiro avanoita tsika kubva kune imwe nzvimbo nemweya weChanel," akadaro mutambi Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey. "Kune kutarisa kwemarudzi ese emukadzi."
Chiratidziro chisati chaitwa, maVIP nevapepeti vakatora mapikicha eiyo salon hombe ine mbaura dzayo dzemoto dzemarble, mavharanda esimbi uye terasi yakatarisana nedziva rakadzikama, grey-girini. Hutsi hwehuni kubva mubindu hwakanyudzwa mumba, huchiwedzera kushongedzwa kwechando kwematafura akaremerwa nemakuki, maranjisi akazadzwa neclove uye gadziriro yemichero inoyeuchidza nezvemifananidzo yezana ramakore rechi 17.
"Zvakanaka, uye zvakanyatsotsanangurwa," akashamisika Bergès-Frisbey, ari kugadzirira basa rake rinotevera, saGuinevere muGuy Ritchie anoenderana ne "Knights of the Round Tafura."
"Tinotanga kutora mafirimu muna Kukadzi, kunyanya kuEngland," akadaro. “Zvakaoma. Ndiri kugadzirira."
Mutambi wekuGermany Mavie Hörbiger, anogara kuAustria, akati kupinda muChanel chiitiko chaicho: "Kuva nefashoni muSalzburg, hazvisi izvo kune vanhu vekuAustria."
Lagerfeld's show yakabatsira kupisa nguva isati yasvika ne hyper embellished take on conservative chic: Nyeredzi dzeCrystal dzinopenya paprim, cardigan yenzou mumvere dzakabikwa; edelweiss yakashongedzwa pane suede leggings; uye maribhoni akashandurwa kuita mahombe, maoko akamonyoroka pajasi rinoshamisa rakagadzirwa neminhenga, kugutsurira kufekisheni yaiitwa nevakuru veAustria vekare.
"Zvakanaka kwaari, kwete? Ndiyo padhuze yaunokwanisa kusvika kune dirndl, "Lagerfeld akadaro Lara Stone paakapinda akapfeka jira dema retaffeta rinopenya rine apron-senge flap yakakamurwa mumaruffles. “Handidi kuti iratidzike se‘Imba Kadiki paPrairie.’” (Kunyange zvazvo gare gare muenzaniso wacho waigona kuzosorwa mubindu padanda rokuzungunuka rakarembera pabazu romuti, mwanakomana wake mucheche achiridza kamhere nomufaro pamakumbo ake. )
Paive nemawinks kuhumambo hweAustro-Hungarian, zvakare, Lagerfeld akacherekedza, apo mamwe mareti emucheka, ruffles, uye maribhoni aive à la mode.
"Ndinoda mweya," mugadziri akadaro. "Handidi kuita chero chinhu folkloric. Izvi zvakanyanya zvekufungidzira. Inofanira kunge iri yechimanjemanje, inofanirwa kunge iri yemazuva ano, chiyero, zvese."
To wit: Heidi mabraids akakuvadzwa kuita quirky earmuffs, nepo mabhurukwa acho ainyanya kududzirwa sekicky denim shorts, akasonanidzwa nemacurlicue embroideries.
Shoo yacho yakavhurwa nenhevedzano yemabhachi anopenya, sekepesi ane gilded braid kana velvet trim. Lagerfeld akashandisa zvakafanana cape mhedzisiro kune turtleneck majuzi, madhirezi epati ane tie, pamwe nemakapisi akazara-akazara akaiswa minhenga isingazivikanwe.
Lagerfeld's ode kuenda kuMitteleuropa aitendereka pakati pemba - maruva anopinza kubva pamucheka wekushongedza akanyungudutswa panogara homwe dzakarukwa dzaChanel - kuti riite senge tirauzi reflannel rine mitsara yakarukwa uye masheri akafukidzira ane goridhe kana sirivheri.
Kupfeka kwemanheru kwaive kwakasarudzika, nemashavishavi neminhenga yaidzika pablue chiffon yakacheneruka, uye maoko ebhishopi akazvitutumadza achiwedzera kubata kune madhirezi eblack satin ane dirndl yakasvibiswa.
Munguva yeuta hwake, Lagerfeld akadzura pretzel patafura ndokupa kuna Cara Delevingne, uyo akaruma ndokuisimudza mudenga senhabvu mushure mekubata-bata.
Vanosvika mazana maviri nemakumi maviri evatengi veChanel vakanyanya, kusanganisira yakakura kubva kuEurope inotaura chiGerman, vakadzika paguta rinoyevedza, rinokosheswa nenzvimbo yaro yenhoroondo, ngano, opera nedzimba dzeumambo seLeopoldskron.
“Zvakanaka chaizvo. Ndiyo imwe yenzvimbo dzandinofarira muEurope. Ndinoda bindu. Kana pasina mhute unogona kuona makomo, ”akadaro Lagerfeld. Akacherechedza kuti makore makumi maviri nematanhatu apfuura akapfura mushandirapamwe weChanel nemuenzaniso Inès de la Fressange pamuzinda, imwe yekutanga yeimba yeFrance.
“Ndaiwanzouya kuno kakawanda,” mugadziri akarondedzera kudaro. “Ini ndakatoroja dzimba munzvimbo ino. Ndinoda Salzburg, ndinoda nzvimbo ino. "
NeMuvhuro manheru, vaenzi vakaenda kuchisvusvuro chepamusoro paSt. Peter Stiftskeller, yakanzi ndiyo resitorendi yekaresa muEurope uye yakapinzwa muimba yemamongi. Vanhu vese vasati vagadzirira kudya kwezvinomwe zvakavhurwa netartare yefawn, mbatatisi rösti neplum chutney, mugadziri wacho akaburitsa vhidhiyo yemaminetsi manomwe ine muimbi Pharrell Williams "Anofara" semukomana uya wekupedzisira-chic anosimudza uye Delevingne. kuzvarwa patsva kwaEmpress Elizabeth wekuAustria, anozivikanwa saSissi.
"Angave musikana here kuti andibatsire kuona, kuona (CC) nyika," Williams croons murwiyo rwekutanga rwaakanyora sedhipatimendi nemuenzaniso, uyo ari kuita zvekutamba nemimhanzi.
Zvimwe zvinokwezva zveparutivi panguva yerwendo urwu rweAlpine zvaisanganisira misika yeKisimusi yeSalzburg ine mukurumbira nemakonzati emimhanzi nemwanakomana ane mukurumbira weguta, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Vaenzi pashoo yefashoni vakasara nebhegi remukati rine kudhindwazve kwe "Der Rosenkavalier," komiki opera naRichard Strauss zvichibva pamahara echiGerman ekutanga naHugo von Hofmannsthal, pamwe neshanduro yeChirungu uye beribboned portfolio yezvikeche naAlfred Roller. yezvipfeko uye seti yekugadzirwa kwa1910.
Akagara ari mumiriri wetsika, Lagerfeld akatonyengerera vashanyi kuti vatore matireyi ezvinonaka zveko, kusanganisira Kaiserschmarren, keke yakachekwa yakatumidzwa zita ramambo weAustria, Franz Joseph I, uyo Williams akazvarwa patsva mufirimu rinotevera.
“Unofanira kuravira: Ndicho chinhu chakanakisisa munyika,” mugadziri akateterera kudaro.
Kuunganidzwa kweMétiers d'art, kuvharisa mabhii maviri, kunomiririra chikamu chiri kukurumidza kukurumidza chebhizinesi reChanel nhasi, sekureva kwaBruno Pavlovsky, purezidhendi weChanel fashoni.
"Pane zvakawanda zvemukati, uye vatengi vedu vanoda fungidziro iyi yese yakatenderedza mhando," akadaro. "Nenguva isipi zvichave zvakanyanya kana zvishoma zvekukosha kwakafanana semuunganidzwa waGumiguru kana Kurume."
Yakaunzwa muna 2002 kukwidziridza maatelier akasarudzika aChanel mwene, kusanganisira nyanzvi yeScottish cashmere Barrie nekambani yeFrench tweed A.C.T. 3, iyo yakatorwa yakaziviswa neMuvhuro, kuunganidzwa kwepagore kweMétiers d'arts iko zvino kwave kutsigirwa nemushandirapamwe wekushambadzira wakatsaurirwa - iyo Salzburg imwe icharatidza Delevingne naWilliams - uye inotakurwa mumaboutique ese ekambani yeFrance 189, pamwe nemu. vanenge 100 sarudza specialty zvitoro.
Nekutengesa kwakaoma, Pavlovsky akatenda kuburitsa kwekutanga - pakati paMay kuenda kuAmerica kutanga, ichiteverwa neEurope uyezve Asia pakati paChikumi - uye rondedzero yakasimba kumashure kwekuunganidza, imwe neimwe ichiunza hupenyu chitsauko chitsva mubasa rine mavara. zita reimba. Chanel aenda kuDallas, Shanghai, Edinburgh neTokyo kuzoratidzira mutsara mutsva.
"Vatengi vedu, vakajaira kuona masilhouette matsva uye zvitsva muboutique mwedzi miviri yega," Pavlovsky akadaro. "Nguva dzese, pane zvakawanda zvekutaura nezve hupenyu hwake - chaihwo uye hwekufungidzira. Izvi ndezvekuvaka Chanel yemangwana. "
Achibvunzurudzwa mukamuri rakashongedzerwa nehuni rakatarisana nedhamu raimbove hofisi yaMax Reinhardt, mutungamiriri wetiyeta anozivikanwa uye muvambi weSalzburg Festival, Pavlovsky akacherekedza kuti kugadzirira kupfeka ndicho chikamu chechigadzirwa chiri kukurumidza kukura paChanel, uye chakagadziridzwa. uye zvitoro zvakakurisa, zvese nemuvaki Peter Marino, zvinofanirwa kuenderana nesarudzo dzakakura dzefashoni.
Chanel ichangobva kutamisa chitoro chayo cheVienna, nzvimbo yayo chete yeAustria, nekuda kwechikonzero ichi, uye munguva pfupi yapfuura yakaita zvakafanana muHamburg neFrankfurt. Dusseldorf anotevera.
Nepo iyo Métiers d'art renji yakasundira mitengo munzvimbo nyowani - majasi anogona kumhanya kusvika kumadhora zviuru makumi maviri neshanu - Pavlovsky akacherekedza kuti kune zvinhu zvinokwanisika. "Haisi mubvunzo wemutengo, zvakanyanya kukosha kwezvigadzirwa izvi," akadaro.
Achibvunzwa kana kuunganidzwa kweMétiers d'art - kazhinji kwakafemerwa nenharaunda yakaita seRussia, India, kana Turkey - inonzwika mumisika iyoyo, Pavlovsky akapindura kuti: "Kutendeseka, isu hatitombotarise. Nyaya yeDallas yaive nesimba muChina neJapan sezvazvaive muAmerica. "
Zvakadaro kuvapo kwaLagerfeld muAustria, nhau dzepeji yepamberi mumapepa anosanganisira Salzburger Nachtrichten neKronen Zeitung, uye muunganidzwa wake weChanel une chokwadi chekupambira fashoni netsika nhaka yedunhu.
Lagerfeld, uyo akapfeka blazer panguva yekugara kwake, akadana chirevo kubva kare: "Zvizvarwa zvinouya zvichienda, asi lederhosen anogara achigara."
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