FALL 2014 MENSWEAR
Thom BrownenaTim Blanks
Kuiswa kwakawanda kweunyanzvi kupfuura fashoni yekuratidzira kumashure, iyo seti yeshow yaThom Browne nhasi yaive nzvimbo yeDisney izere nevanhu vakawanda vanotsoropodza. Bere rakamira padombo, madhadha nehove zvakashambira murwizi rune pinstripe, tsuro netsindi zvakamhan’ara, gondo rakabhururuka pamusoro. The kicker? Mwedzi mitatu mukugadzira, tafura yese, maruva nemhuka zvinosanganisira, yakasonwa kubva kumachira echirume echirume.
Chiratidziro pachacho chaive chiitiko muzviito zviviri: kuvhimwa nevavhimi. Kwekutanga, Stephen Jones akasika chigadziko chinokatyamadza chemumusoro chinomiririra umambo hwemhuka-kubva mungowani ine maziso edatya uye chivharo chine nhongonya yakasvika pakuoma kwemuromo wegondo, kune musoro webere wakabata hove mumuromo waro, kune mask hombe yenzou. Mbatya dzakaenda navo dzaisvikirika sechinhu chero chipi zvacho Browne akambopa, nemaune kudaro. Akanga achifara zvikuru kushanda naJones aida kuratidza hati, saka tweed, herringbone, glen plaid, houndstooth, windowpane cheki, uye grey flannel tailoring yakagadzirirwa kubira pasina kutinhira (kunyangwe zvimwe seams yakasvibirira yaiva kubvuma. mhuka yesango mukati). Ichi chikamu chekutanga chakapa shred yenzwisiso yekuti Browne akaisa sei 61 muzana yekuwedzera mukutengesa kwezvipfeko zvevarume gore rapfuura. Kumwe kunenge kune semi-chaiyo nyika umo iwe unogona kufungidzira zvipfeko izvi zvichifamba.
Chiito chechipiri, zvisinei, yakanga iri nhau yakasiyana zvikuru. Tikugashirei zvakare kuThomlandia, iyo sur-chaiyo nyika uko pfungwa uye chikamu zvakawira pasi zvakafa. Vavhimi vaBrowne vakafamba semaPierots apererwa nezano, vachifumura kuti vaive vakaremerwa sei nemakapeti avo eintarsia-ed mink, mabrocade avo akaonda ehuchi akarukwa neoprene uye mapikisi edhijitari, akaiswa sequins uye mashizha makuru emuoki. Huzhinji hwenyama parutivi, paive nekutsveyama kwezvipfeko izvi, senge Browne akange akwereta shizha kubva kubhaibheri raRei Kawakubo remaviri-dimensionality. Vakanga vakaoma zvekuti paive nechiitiko chimwe chete - madhiri mahombe epurasitiki - uko modhi yaifanira kudzikiswa muchitarisiko chake. Pakanga paine chimwe chinhu chakashata nemaune pamusoro pekunyanyisa kupusa zvekuti munhu akasiiwa achiredza-semazuva ese-kufananidzira kunze kwenyika yezvibvumirano sechinhu chinobatsira, kufamba nyore, kukwezva pabonde…Ko Nijinsky haana kumboita chimwe chinhu chine mativi maviri zvekuti akatombotemwa nematombo kunze kwenhandare?
Kudzokera kupasi nebumpu ... zviso zvevakomana vaBrown zvakange zvakatsikiswa nemashizha emuoki kuti zvibatane nezvipfeko zvavo. Blend? Hongu, ndiyo yakanga iri pfungwa yezvose. Basa raBrown rakavakwa pamusoro pekunakidzwa nemhando yepamusoro, uye apa aipemberera hukuru hwecamouflage mune yechirume fashoni lexicon. Kana kuti akadaro. Chimwe chinyorwa chinotyisa chaive chakataurwa nemagumo, apo "muvhimi" mienzaniso yakamira pamberi pe "kuvhima" mienzaniso, ichivavhara. Zvadaro "kuvhimwa" mhando dzakasimuka mberi. "Mhuka dzinokunda," akadaro Browne. Showman, ane tariro, uye Conservationist? Zvionere wega kana Browne's Fall 2014 shebang aenda kuratidzwa pane gallery padhuze newe. Nekuti ndiyo inonyanya kuenda kune iyi epic mutambo.
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