LONDON, JANUARY 8, 2016
naLUKE LEITCH
Dzokera kuHogwarts! Kuratidzwa kwekutanga kwemwedzi wezvipfeko zvevarume kwaive nezve snap catch-ups-Ko nevhudzi rako? Chiso changu chinoratidzika kunge chisingazungunuke here? Ndeupi mukoma waJonas uyo?—uye achifembedza mhuno yekutanga yemwaka uri mberi.
Gordon Richardson nechikwata chake cheTopman Design vakaunza muunganidzwa neOscar Wilde skater-boy vibe. Kumashure, mamwe mapoka akaiswa mukobvu uye nekukurumidza, kubva kugrunge kuenda kuanalogue kuenda kumutambo kusvika kune wechikadzi kusvika pakusatya: Richardson akanzvenga zvese zvine hungwaru. "Inofanira kunge iri mamiriro chaiwo izvozvi, asi chero izwi chairo reiri, ini handizive."
Tumira Alessandro Michele, zvirokwazvo. Topman nehanzvadzi yake vane hanya zvakanyanya nemhepo yakareruka yekubvumirana kwekunaka; pano maruva, blousy shirt hems inoshandiswa se skirting pasi pejaketi, chiuno chidiki kana nguo, pamwe nekusazivikanwa kwegumbeze / duster majasi, uye yakasvibira isina kujairika ruvara palette yakabatwa ne2015's nu-Gucci hurricane. Paive nekudzika kunoyemurika kune pentimento yekumisikidza yemaitiro ekushongedza ekugadzira: Dévoré velor akadhindwa-kaviri uye akaiswa watermark.
Mabhachi airatidza mapendekete akaoma, akatsanangurwa asi aive asina kurongeka pazasi. Vaiwira pasi nemuviri kuti vabatsire matirauzi akaregedzeka, aipeperetswa zvinyoro nyoro, nguva dzose pamusoro pemateki esuede ane maruva akamendwa. Silhouette yakafemerwa zvakare kuburikidza nepamusoro-waisted tarnished-finish bhasikoro uye shearling-collar uye muhomwe naironi blouson. Sutu yeturmeric yakatsva muvelvet yakapwanyika ingadai yakaita seyakaoma kutengesa mwedzi 18 yapfuura-kunyanya kurudzi rwepwere seuyu-asi nhasi zano racho raita senge rine musoro. Zvimwe zvaidiwa nebhangi aive akashongedzwa akashambidzwa denim anotaridzika, kungobata kwakakura, uye iwo majasi anodziya anodziya.