LONDON, JANUARY 8, 2016
naALEXANDER FURY
Bvunza Craig Green — weBritish fashoni anofarira conceptualist — kuti anonzwa sei nezvekudanwa kudaro, uye anokwenya mhuno yake zvishoma uye achinyemwerera zvisingaite. "Hatimbotanga nepfungwa," anokwenya. "Zvinhu zvinongonzwa zvakanaka." Zvimwe ndosaka zviratidziro zveGreen, uye zvipfeko zvake, zvichirira zvakanyanya. Iko hakuna yakawanda gumption inokandwa pese paanotsanangura zvipfeko zvake: Zvese nezvemachira uye matekiniki. Uye Mhuri dzeSylvanian. "Vakafuridzira mavara ese pakutanga," akadaro, nekukurumidza achiwedzera, ". . . pamwe handifanire kukuudza izvozvo."
Sezvakamboitika, iwo mareferensi akadzamirwa mumagetsi eGreen anongofananidzwa neayo ega ega anoona anoverengera mazviri. Zvikamu zvidiki izvo zvese zvinosvika pakuzara hombe. Zvinodzokera kune izvo zvinonzwa zvakanaka: panguva ino, Green aifunga, mumashoko asinganzwisisike, nezve chitsva uye chekare, nezvekuraswa - akataura nezvezvikwesha zvechipatara zvinobvarura, izvo zvipfeko zvake zvinowanzofanana nepamusoro-zvinopesana nezvinhu zvaunochengeta nekusingaperi. “Semagumbeze” akadaro achirasa maoko kuratidza machira akarukwa zvine mutsindo, akarukwa, akagezeswa, uye akagezeswa patsva akaita seaya akabatwa naLinus mumitsetse yekomiki yeNzungu.
Pfungwa idzodzo dzairidzwa dzadzokororwa: A bouclé, mumashoko aGreen, “setauro rekare”; sirika nematehwe (nguva yekutanga Green akashandisa chero) akagadziridzwa zvakanyanya, nemaoko, akagezwa, uye akagezwazve, iwo akaderedzwa anorwara mavara a riposte, akadaro, kune mwaka wapfuura asidhi inopenya. Kusiyana neizvi, dzimwe mbatya dzainge dzakasungwa zvakasimba—zvechigarire—pamuviri, kana kuti kupatsanurwa netambo kana mabhatani akasungwa nepakati, sekunge abatwa nechinguvana asati asuduruka. Pfungwa iyoyo, yezvinogoneka kana isingaperi, chimwe chinhu chiri kunetsa mufashoni sechikamu chemufananidzo mukuru izvozvi. Ndosaka mabhureki achisiyanisa pakati pe "fashoni" ne "umbozha," yekare ichireva flibbertigibbet kushanduka kwemwaka, ekupedzisira kune staid masitaera akavakwa kuti agare nekusingaperi. Conglomerate CEO vari kunetseka kuputira misoro yavo mukuyananisa izvo zviviri zvekuzvitutumadza; kuona mugadziri akasvibira seGreen achiiroverera kunosunga.
Ndichifunga shure kuna Linus, uye zvechokwadi kumagumbeze edu ose ehuduku, handina kukwanisa kuita asi kugumburwa nepfungwa yedziviriro. Ndicho chikonzero isu tinonamatira kune izvo zvimedu zvemucheka, shure kwezvose-kuti tinzwe takachengetedzwa. Green akavhura showa yake neyakagadzirwa hazmat sutu-akataura mayunifomu; layering kusona; the pourpoint doublets of medieval knights, akatundirwa kufambisa maconvex ezvombo zveplate. Green yakadana mapedhi akaiswa pasi akabatwa mumaoko emodhiyani kana kurembera kubva mumabhandi avo "mabhegi ekubaya". Pakutanga aizovasunga pamamodeli ake, sekunge aidzigadzirira kurwisa nyika.
Zvakaoma kutaura kuti sei muunganidzwa uyu wakanzwa zvakanaka, sekutaura kunoita Green. Asi zvakadaro. Zvichida imhaka yekuti, sezvo misika yemari yepasi rose inodedera, zvakare- $ 2.3 trillion yakabviswa kwavari svondo rino-isu tese tinoda kunzwa takachengetedzwa. Pamwe Green pachake anonzwa kungwarira, uye asina chokwadi, mugadziri wechidiki anoratidza muindasitiri ine mhirizhonga, iyo nheyo dzayo dziri kushanduka sezvatinotarisa. Asi akavaka dziviriro sei muunganidzwa wake, nekuti zvipfeko zveGreen — tarenda rake — ndizvozvo. Ndivo nhumbi dzake dzokurwa nadzo dzinopesana nemararamiro enyika yefashoni. Uye ivo vakasiyana zvachose uye vakasiyana. Hapana pfungwa inodiwa.