LONDON, JANUARY 10, 2016
naALEXANDER FURY
Nguo dzaJames Long kuravira kwakawanikwa. Pane varume pakati pehama dzake vanonamata maLurexes ake, madenim ake akapendwa nependi, masweati ake akamendwa nembada dzakagadzirwa nerabha. Iwo mapikoko anotyisa haasi vatengi vaLong vakavimbika chete asi kurudziro yake yeFall 2016. "Magamba emunharaunda," akadaro, achitaura nezvevanhu vakaita saEddie Peake, ane basa rinowanzobatanidza mavara akatsvuka, masirogani asina kujeka, uye kushama kwakawanda. -akaita mutambo wenhabvu asina kupfeka mashanu-a-side achidzidza paRoyal Academy. Sezviri pachena, kana akapfeka, Peake anopfeka Long. Kuparidzira vakatendeuka? Uye ipapo zvimwe.
“Apo kunenge kune fashoni yakawanda kwazvo pamusoro, ndakasarudza kutarisa vanhu vanopfeka zvipfeko zvangu zvomenemene,” akadaro Long, pashure pokuratidzira uko, kuchitsamira pakuona kwako, kwakanga kuchishamisa, kana kuti kungofara; zvine ruzha, kana zvoumbozha. Paive neshinda dzakawanda dzesimbi, uye lace, uye fishnet, uye mirwi mikuru ye psychotropic color senge trippy sema opiate poppies aibudirira semadhindi uye juzi intarsias. Mabhandi mabhandi aimonereka kuita matatu-dimensional resin roses. Bvudzi rakanga rakazorwa kumusana, maziso akazorwa nekupenya, bhutsu dzemhuru dzakakwirira dzaChristian Louboutin dzakauya dzine mitsetse ine mavara akawanda yaipenya nekupenya. Yakanga iri, zvakanaka kutaura, yakazara-on.
Madingindira ebasa raPeake — izvo zvisina musoro kusangana nezvinyadzi — vanonzwa sekunge vasangana nemutambo wavo wetsiva muLong. Muchimiro chakapararira chekuparadzana, kupfeka chidimbu chimwe chete, wanga uchida kuona basa raLong kwete se "kutaridzika," asi semunhu, zvinhu zvakagadzirwa zvine hungwaru zvinogona kubvisirwa kure nehukuru hwakazara kuti ushande muwadhiropu ye. murume asiri chikamu chemugadziri's tight-knit niche ye (kazhinji East London) mafani.
Asi ungazvinetsa here? Iyo nyaya ine aesthetics seyaLong ndeyekuti inogona kuvhiringidza uye kureba kune anoonawo zvake. Ungambomira here kuti utarise nepakati penjanji yebhachi rejean rakanamirwa mune chartreuse uye dzvuku kuti uwane velvet tuxedo bhachi kana, pamwe, peya yebhurukwa nhete, isingakuvadzi ye tracksuit? Kana kungonanga kumwe kuri nyore kugaya?
Yakareba ndeimwe yevagadziri vezvipfeko zvevarume. Ndiye mutsva (ish) musoro wezvipfeko zvechirume paIceberg, ane mhirizhonga uye ane mavara ekutengeserana anomukwanira. “Ndakanga ndisingadi kuzvidzokorora,” akadaro Long. "Uku kwaive kugadzirisa zvinhu zvakakosha zvandinoda." Yakareba zviri pachena inoda zvinhu zvakawanda. Kugadzirisa kudiki, zvinoshamisa, kwaizoenda kure.