LONDON, JANUARY 10, 2016
naLUKE LEITCH
Muunganidzwa uyu waive uzere nembatya dzakanakisa izvo varume vazhinji-uyu aisanganisira uyu-vaizofarira kudzikwira muchitoro. Iyo denim, yakanyura chinyararire nemitsetse yakatenderedzwa yeGermain raindrop camouflage, yaive yakasviba uye yakapfava uye yakagadzirwa zvinoyevedza. Zvakangofananawo nekusarudzika kwakakura kwerukova, brown kana grey-yarn yakakura-yarn oversize knites uye yavo yakashongedzerwa ingwe kana rain-camo intarsia finer-gauge cousins. Paive nekupenya kwakanaka kweiyo tsvuku tsvuku-inenge yakangofanana mumvuri watakaona kuMaharishi neAstrid Andersen nezuro - pane yakavhurwa park uye inonakidza bhomba remuviri rakafemerwa naChristopher Raeburn's Mongolian sosi zvinhu. Matarisiro maviri ekupedzisira akagadzirwa kubva kumauto akadzokororwa echando ponchos aigutsa Muppet-esque show-closers, asi mazhinji emapaki echiratidziro ichi nemabhomba uye vamwe vese vakajairwa rack-rack rack vaizivikanwa nekuzvidzora kwavo. Iyo dzvuku uye iwo madonhwe emvura akaparadzana, pakanga paine zvishoma zveiyo quirk Raeburn anowanzo kuunza. Sechiitiko cheshoo chakashaya kuvhunduka uye kutya.
Backstage Raeburn, makumi matatu nemana, aidada nehunyanzvi uye chiyero chemuunganidzwa uyu. Ari kuenda kune studio nyowani munguva pfupi, uye akarima kudyidzana kwekutengesa kunosanganisira Dover Street, Selfridges, uye Harrods. Iye akati: “Chimwe chinhu kwandiri, kutaura chokwadi, ndechekuti zvinonakidza kukura nemhando. Pamwe pane zvinhu zvandakagadzira makore mashanu apfuura izvo ndanyanya kuchembera izvozvi.”
Kuno muLondon tinoda kuva nekeke redu todya; tinochema-chema apo mugadziri wefashoni akatanga ari pamupendero nechimwe chinhu chokuedza kutaura gare gare anobudisa dzimwe mbatya dzakagadziridzwa, dzakajairika, dzokutengesera. Uye zvino kana vagadziri veBritish vatadza kuwana bhizinesi kubudirira uye vanomanikidzwa kuvhara, isu tinoshamisika kuti sei. Nhasi Raeburn akasarudza nzira ine hungwaru—nokuti kana kusundidzira kuchisvika pakusundidzira, chii chinotenderwa nevashoma kana zvichienzaniswa netsika yevazhinji?