LONDON, JANUARY 10, 2016
naNICK REEMSEN
Jeremy Scott's Moschino ari kupolarizing, asi zvisingarambiki achivaraidza. Chimiro chake chekuseka ndiPop-ier, wackier, aneshuga kupfuura yaFranco, asi izvo hazvisi zvakaipa: Scott mugadziri anorova ziso renzombe yezvino tarisa-pa-ini zvinobatikana. Zvese zvaanoratidza zvinogona kunge zviri Snapchatted kana Instagrammed zvakanakisa pasina kuzeza. Muunganidzwa waakaparura manheru ano, muchechi yeMayfair, wanga wakajeka sekare, asi pakanga paine hungwaru huri pachena, nekuda kwekubatana kubva kuBritish agitprop artists Gilbert & George.
“Ndaida kugeza zvipfeko zvakanyanyisa, saka ndakanwa tii navo,” akadaro Scott. “Uye pandakanga ndichivaudza pfungwa dzangu dzokuunganidza, vakati, ‘Nei musingatore kubva mudura redu?’ Saka kubva pamichinjikwa kusvika kumisoro kusvika kune masirogani [aiita seakakurumidza uye akatsamwa pazvinhu zvinenge zvese] pakanga paine. zvinhu zvakawanda zvinoshamisa zvandakakwanisa kubatanidza.” Sezviri pachena, G&G's color-rich graphics yakakonzera imwezve chromatic tsunami muScott's anogara achifungidzira uropi - yake Fall collection yaive murarabungu mune druggy, rave-y neon, kusvika kune fluorescent-painted earlobes uye coif. (Nzvimbo yechapero yakarangarira Limelight, kirabhu yeusiku yeManhattan ye'90s yaiwanikwawo muchechi, uye vamwe vevagari vekwaScott vaipfeka.) Denim yaive nemushonga wependi yekupfapfaidza, waipfekwa nemipendero pa ( think trompe l. 'mafuta anopfekwa nenineties clubkids). Anotyisa Dr. Martens-style bhutsu, cutouts ayo akashanda sekukoka kweshow, akagamuchira graffiti imwechete. Collegiate mitsetse yaishandiswawo mukutanga, ingave iri sikavha kana shati fomu, ichikweretesa chinhu chinosemesa preppy.
Neimwe nzira-uye iyi ihama tichifunga nezvehukasha hwaScott-paivewo neropa rekutanga muzvipfeko. "Mazhinji maumbirwo akareruka, uye ndakaita zvakawanda kukorokoza," akadaro. “Anenge hembe dzakabatanidzwa—sejuzi rakarukwa rine maoko eMA-1.” Collage inogonawo kunzi yakaitwa naGilbert & George: Jourdan Dunn-akafamba sechikamu cheMoschino's Women's Pre-Fall, iyo yakaratidzwa panguva imwe chete-akapfeka bhachi reaviator rine hood rine jira rakarukwa rakaiswa pasi kumusana uye sirogani-yakadhindwa maoko. (Kumwe kunhu, mumwe muenzaniso wakakurumbira weiyo yaive SPUNK, iyo yakatenderedza mashin ejeans). Lucky Blue Smith akavhura uye akavhara showa muLisa Frank anopenya, asi silhouette nezvimwe zvidimbu zvakawanda zvaive pachena: sutu kumberi, uye mugero wekuitenderedza kunze.
Ndiina Neneh Cherry, Noomi Rapace, Lucky, Jourdan, uye kunyange Taboo kubva kuBlack Eyed Peas paruoko, Scott, kazhinji, akaunza mukurumbira uye mabhururu kune imwe nzira yakaderera-mbiri London Collections: Varume. Uye kuzvida kana kusada, icho chikamu chikuru chepasuru yake, rudzi rwepamusoro Pop curation, uye kuwedzeredza nekuda kwekunakidzwa. Sezvo magumo akatsika, remix yaMichel Gaubert ye "Semunamato" yakaitwa naMadonna yakauya ichirova-uye pamutsetse, "munhu wese anofanira kumira ega," iwe haugone kubatsira asi kugomera. Scott imhumhi yega chokwadi, asi magineti ake anoreva kuti anogara aine paki.