LONDON, JANUARY 10, 2016
naALEXANDER FURY
Mimwe miunganidzwa inoda thesaurus, encyclopedia, uye maawa mana pasi peWikipedia wormhole kuti uone zviri kuitika. Minimalist artists uye crypto-religious movements, ani zvake? Mamwe akajeka uye ari nyore, dzimwe nguva zvakanyanya.
KTZ inotevera hurongwa hwekupedzisira: Mimhanzi inorova inotanga uye mamodheru anorova catwalk akapfeka ma getups anosiyana zvishoma, asi zvakakwana, kubva mwaka nemwaka. Panguva ino yaive Kraftwerk inosangana neRussia Futurism inosangana neAmerican mutambo. Zviri pachena! Zvakanaka, kwete zviri pachena, asi ndakanyora pasi "baseball" uye "eighties Gaultier," uyo mu1987 akagadzira Cyrillic-yakadhindwa muunganidzwa akakurumidza kunzi Detente Chic pakati pekunyungudika kweCold War.
Pano, America yakatonga kupfuura chero chinhu chipi zvacho, kubva pagirazi rekuvhura-rakashongedzwa zvitarisiko zvakayambuka Liberace neBootsy Collins pamusoro pebhutsu dzeBowling dzakapombwa neplatform soles. Vaive vekunze kwebowling clobber, asi vakakuvara senge shanduro dzevanofamba netsoka dzeVivienne Westwood dzichiri kutengeswa zvakanyanya shangu dzeRocking Horse. Mugadziri weKTZ Marjan Pejoski anonyanyisa kuWestwood, sezvineiwo: Mapendekete akanongedza pamamwe majasi ake akakura akabuda akananga muunganidzwa wake weVaroyi muna 1983.
Westwood yakapopotera tsika dzeAmerican imperialism, asi Pejoski sezviri pachena anoigamuchira. Mabhachi ake ainyanya kuverengerwa, aine varsity yairatidza kuchekwa kuita majasi kana mabhomba akarebesa. Mashoma akasonanidzwa nematihwe mahombe-laced sutures ayo anowanzo kuvadza pamusoro pebaseball. Baseball pants rakava bhurugwa remazuva ose; siginicha mitsetse yakanyorwa sweatshirts uye intarsia fur scarves. Kraftwerk akapa mavara: tsvuku, dema, chena. Russian Futurism? Nah - mamwe makumi masere retro.
KTZ haisi kutarisa kuwedzera vatengi vayo, kana miganhu yemafashoni. Pejoski anga achitamba kune chaunga chepamba manheru ano, iyo yakadanidzira kubvumirwa kwayo. Kana ari mutsva asina kuziva? Zvakanaka, tarisa mutambo webaseball usingazive mitemo, uye uuye pasina akachenjera. Iwe unongopedzisira waneta zvishoma, wapererwa zvishoma, uine crick kubva pakupenengura mutsipa wako uchiona munhu wese achisunga zvisina musoro.