MILAN, JANUARY 17, 2016
naLUKE LEITCH
Massimiliano Giornetti akanyatsoenderana nekutarisa kwese muunganidzwa uyu pashangu yakagadzirwa nemuvambi wemushandi wake iyo yaimbova yaAndy Warhol. Mutariri uyu akatenga maFerragamo oxfords—sezviri pachena ndiwo ega masitayipi eshangu evarume akagadzirwa neBonito-born footwear maestro—uye akadzipfeka kuti apende mairi. Mushure mekufa kwaWarhol, casa Ferragamo akatenga shangu dzaWarhol, dzizere nemhando dzakasiyana siyana. -mavara pendi spatters.
Kudhirowa kweaya akabatwa kaviri-ne-genius oxfords saka akasimbisa kutarisa kwese pano nhasi. Shangu hombe dzekupinda. Giornetti akaita chibhakera chakanaka zvakadaro. Akataura kuti aiongorora dialectic ye sartorial classicism uye hunyanzvi hwefashoni. Izvi zvakashandurirwa musutu yezvipfeko zvekunze zveumbozha uye svutugadzike ine yaanofarira yepedyo silhouette yaGiornetti, yakakandwa inopesana nemaruko nehembe dzakapokana nehunyanzvi hwekugadzira.
Yekutanga kutaridzika chena mac yaimiririra iyo isina chinhu canvas iyo yese yakazopendirwa. Juzi rinobatanidza dhaka dema remink pamusoro pejecha jena rekugera mupaneru pajuzi rakarukwa rakashongedzwa rine maoko edehwe rakanga rakagadzirwa nehunyanzvi. Mario Giacomelli's saturated monochrome mafoto eminda akarimwa akatsanangura kushongedzwa kweanoshamisa bhomba rinoputika, uye mavara uye mhirizhonga yeEgon Schiele's inotsanangudza yakadzika yekuputsika patani pazvipfeko nehembe.
Asi kanganwa zvese izvi "arty schmarterry": nekuti, mabhachi. Mabhomba enaironi emuorivhi akacheneswa uye mapaki ane kucheka; bhomba renaironi rokuJapan uye rokuveura bhomba; sutu yezvimedu zvitatu zvemadhafu uye mavhavha ane fur-collar-zvose zvaishamisa. Giornetti's suiting silhouette iri kugogodza pamusuwo wemakore maviri-apfuura anachronism, uye maitiro ake anorema-anorema anoshaya ropa-uye-kutinhira kwekukurumidzira manzwiro. Zvaanazvo, kunyanguvezvo, kutaura chaiko. Uye pende-yakapwanyika shangu.