MILAN, JANUARY 17, 2016
naALEXANDER FURY
Icon ishoko rinoshandiswa zvakanyanyisa patsika dzazvino, kwete mufashoni chete. Iri mukutenderera kwazvino kutsanangura zvese kubva pahamburger kusvika pabhurugwa remukati. Kunze kweFall 2016 Calvin Klein Collection show, zviuru zvevasikana vairidza mhere vakaimba zita raCameron Dallas, zvinonzwika zviri mumhepo. "Ndiye mufananidzo wedu," akadaro mumwe wavo, misodzi ichiyerera. Hapana mumwe weboka refashoni aiita seakanzwa nezvake, uye isu takatadza kuronga zvaakaita. Yaiva Warholian chaizvo.
Ndicho chinhu pamusoro pezvidhori; hapana zvakawanda izvo munhu wese anogona kubvumirana nazvo. Italo Zucchelli ane zvakawanda kupfuura zvishoma zvaainazvo paCalvin Klein, kunyange-nguo-yakachenjera, bhanhire rine logo uye nyika yekutanga yakabudirira yekugadzira denim inokwira kumusoro; kune zvakare avo vakatsvuka, vakapfeka matani, uye semi-clad demigods vakasafa naBruce Weber, rudzi rwevakomana vasikana vaya vachiri kuyaruka vangadai vakapopota kwemakore makumi maviri apfuura. Naironi yakafukidzwa mugoridhe, platinum, uye rose-goridhe yakagadzira zviso nemiviri yevarume vemazuva ano, mamodheru akavharidzirwa anoita kuti show yaCalvin Klein itaridzike yakasiyana zvachose nechero ipi zvayo muzvipfeko zvevarume. Ndakatadza kuita asi kufunga kuti vairatidzika sezvidhori zvechiKatorike zvakashongedzwa zvevasande vane chitarisiko chakanaka. Asi pamwe ikoko kwaisava nemaune.
Zucchelli akavaka muunganidzwa wake panguva ino kutenderedza pane imwe icon: sutu yemurume. "Ndaida kuratidza simba renyika yose rekusona kwevarume," akadaro. Akasarudza kuita izvozvo nekuisa masutu ake evarume kuvakadzi kwekutanga-iyo boldface model inoda Mariacarla Boscono, Iselin Steiro, Jessica Miller, uye Gemma Ward. Havaziri chaizvo Linda, Christy, Claudia, naNaomi, asi vekare vana, vane chinhu chekuzivikanwa ipapo. "Zvinoita zvechisikigo, zvebonde," akadaro Zucchelli weaya masutu eCalvin, aipfekwa neganda rakashama nemurume nemukadzi zvakafanana. Vakanga vakachekwa zvisina kunaka-dzimwe nguva zvakanyatsonaka waisaziva kuti vakavaka sei mamodhimu muscular muSuperman proportions. Kwete kuti vakanga vasati vatove vakasikwa: Zvinotora rudzi rwakakosha rwemurume kuti rutaridzike rwakanaka muCK-waistbanded refu-underwear-se-outerwear iyo yakadzika majaketi esutu pakupera kwechiratidziro. Tese tinoziva zvazvinoreva.
Shanduko, zvisinei, idingindira rinonakidza mufashoni — uye kunyanya pano paKlein. Zucchelli yakashandura denim kuita jacquard, yakarukwa zvine mutsindo mune trompe l'oeil yekupfeka uye kubvaruka zuva nezuva, ichiita iyo yemazuva ese kukosha. Zucchelli akatanga kushandisa iyo jean jacquard yeChirimo-saka vakashaya iyo inofadza frisson yekushamisika. Ditto the foiling, iyo yaiyeuchidza yakanyatso kuunganidzwa Helmut Lang. Hapana akadziviswa. Alchemy ndiye akaraswa naZucchelli - sezviri pachena, chimwe chinhu chaanofarira kwazvo, uye ane raibhurari izere nemabhuku ereferenzi panyaya iyi. Zvakaita zvine musoro, zvese sekufemerwa kunooneka kuseri kweiyo simbi naironi, kupomba kukwira kwekuona kweutilitarian anoraks uye MA1 mabhachi; uye pamwe yekuvepo kwemutsetse wepamberi weiyo enigmatic Dallas. Judicious googling akaziva kuti akashandurwa kuita pop tsika platinamu kuburikidza nealchemic simba re21st-century social media (sezviri pachena, anonyanya kushandisa pasocial media platform Vine).
Ko Zucchelli alchemize goridhe kubva kuKlein nemuunganidzwa uyu? Kwete chaizvo. Sutu dzacho dzaive dzakapfava, asi dzichishanda; masimbi esimbi aibata, asi ainzwa achiganhurirwa kukunyora. Pakanga pasina kukwana kweiyo iconic chaiyo Klein branding, kana. Pakati pese, Zucchelli akaunza show yaive sirivha yakasimba, yakapfeka sutu nhema yakanyatsochekwa.