NaMiles Socha
Zvine musoro here kuratidza kuunganidzwa kwevarume nevakadzi panzira imwe chete? Nhamba iri kukura yevagadziri muno muMilan iri kuti “hongu,” kusanganisira Miuccia Prada, uyo akatsanangura kurudziro yake seizvi: “Pandinoshanda pakuunganidzwa kwevarume, ndinogara ndichifarira uye ndinofarira zvikuru kuongorora nzira dzakasiyana-siyana dzinoitwa nevarume nevakadzi. pfungwa imwe cheteyo norusununguko rwakakwana.”
Saka pamwe kutaura kwese uye kubata ruoko nezve runway inoratidza kuenda mutengi injere. Ngatinzwei kune coed!
Prada zvirokwazvo akaita nyaya ine simba neiyi showa yakasarudzika, imwe yeakanakisa kupfeka kwevarume vake mumakore. Pakupedzisira imwe fashoni-yechigaro-chako uye muunganidzwa wanga usiri wakasiyana-siyana chete asi uchikurudzira kufunga uye unokwezva nekukwevera kwayo kwakasimba kwemanzwiro.
Ndivanaani vaiva ava varume nevakadzi vairatidzika kudada vakapfeka ngowani dzavo dzevafambisi vengarava, mabhachi akagadzirwa zvakaisvonaka uye masutu akafanana neyunifomu, makora uye mahovhosi akavharwa, askew uye anorembera? Madutu, kana kuti matambudziko, akasangana nerudzii?
Kumashure, Prada akati akafunga nezve kutsvaira kwenhoroondo: Kwete kukunda kwetsika, asi "nguva dzakaipa uye dzakaoma" dzinoda hugamba uye shungu kukunda. Akafungawo nezve "zviri kuitika iye zvino," zvichireva hondo, mhirizhonga uye kusagadzikana kuri kuparadza kana kudzinga mamiriyoni evanhu. Chiratidziro chake, akadaro, chaive chigadzirwa che "kusanganisa, nenzira yazvino, zvese zvinoonekwa uye kutsvaga nzira yekuzviita izvozvi."
Akabatana pamaprints naChristophe Chemin, muimbi wechiFrench asingazivikanwe ane mifananidzo yekufananidzira - akamurovera paFifties hembe dzemusasa kwaari, zvidhori zverudo kwaari - mubvunzo uye remix nhoroondo. Semuenzaniso, imwe mupenzura yebhuruu, yakanzi "Iye Akakosha," inofungidzira mukurumbira, ichibatanidza Hercules, Sigmund Freud akabata tsvimbo, Nina Simone mubhokisi magirovhosi uye Che Guevara akabata Oscar.
Iyi mifananidzo ine mitsetse yakashongedzwa yakatsinhirwa muhupfumi hwezvimiro zvitsva, musanganiswa uye ruzivo rwakaiswa kuburikidza neakawanda seti yehuni particle board yakagadzirwa kumutsa nhandare yemitambo kana ruzhinji. Varume vaipfeka zvakasiyana-siyana pamapfekero emugungwa, kubva kudiki, majaketi akaiswa muchiuno kusvika kumakapeti anoyevedza uye majasi emukuru akanaka. Iyo flyaway collars uye hoods - mumachira ehembe, ganda rakaoma kana shearling-lined denim - inotaridzika seye 2016 shanduro yePrada's hit fur tippets yepakutanga.
Sezvo showo yaifambira mberi, zvipfeko zvakawedzera kushongedza kwefolkloric uye kubata kumba kwakarukwa nemaoko kana kugera zvigamba zvegokora. Kazhinji, Prada yaishandisa zvinhu zvakasimba uye zvakapfava: Dehwe rehembe dzepopover uye bhurugwa rakapfava; denim yemajasi matete kana mapesi, uye makushe akachekwa ekusvira, zvisina kujeka Seventies blazers. Mabhurugwa akachekwa zvakangofanana uye dzimwe nguva akashata nenzira iyoyo nemaune yePrada.
Ensembles dzevakadzi dzakanyatsoenderana nekutsauka, kufefeterwa nemhepo kukwezva kwevafambisi vechikepe, vakarara neheels dzakakwirira uye matani akaomeswa. Pakanga paine suavely draped satin uye velvet madhirezi ane Forties airs - kuti pesvedzero yemakore gumi ichiunganidza mwaka uno kusati kwadonha - zvese zvinoshura kunze kwekunge misana yakavhurika.
Achibvunzwa kuseri kwesiteji kana aitarisira ruzha rwechiratidziro, Prada akapindura nenzira yake isingaite yefashoni: hungwaru asi husina maturo. "Zvakaoma uye zvemunhu zvakadzama," akapindura kudaro. "Kuedza kunzwisisa matambudziko evanhu uye zvatinofanira kutarisana nazvo uye zvatinofanira kuita. Asi zvakare kuedza, ndinovimba, kuzviita zvakanaka. "