MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
naTIZIANA CARDINI
Antonio Marras mutori wenhau ane tarenda. Angangoita dhiraivha akanaka webhaisikopo kana seti mugadziri-anonyatsoziva nzira dzakasiyana dzekutaura kwehunyanzvi. Anofamba akasununguka mune stratosphere yekusika, asi anogara achidzokera kuSardinia, nzvimbo yake yekuzvarwa uye inogara inogara patsva. Parwendo rwaFall Marras rwakatora nzira isinganzwisisike kuenda kuTexas-nzvimbo inoita kunge iri pamepu yevagadziri vakati wandei mwaka uno. Zvakadaro Texas yeMarras yanga isiri yemhando yakafemerwa naRichard Prince. Iyi yaive Texas mune yayo raucous, Italianate version: kureva, Sergio Leone spaghetti kumadokero kwe'70s dzaive dzinonakidza, dzine ruzha, dzinenge nyaya dzekatuni-asi dzichitendwa zvekuti dzakafemera Quentin Tarantino kakawanda. Marras akaona kuti akati wandei emabhaisikopo eB-aya akatorwa mifananidzo mumusha uri dongo uri kure, kumaruwa eSardinia.
Kurudziro iyi yakaita kuti mugadziri aite rustic seti yeshoo yake, zvekuti ichokwadi yaive yakazara nemabhero chaiwo ehuswa sezvigaro zvevateereri. Chiratidziro chacho chakaratidzawo kuimba kwechikwata chevakomana vechidiki vaitamba mombe, vaitamba uye vaiimba vachirambwa. “Ndagara ndichikweverwa kurusununguko rwenzvimbo dzakavhurika, dzisingagumi; zvichibva pachitsuwa, pfungwa yekuva kure dzimwe nguva inogona kukanganisa,” akadaro Marras. "Ndaigara ndichida kusvika nepandinogona napo, ndichishuva kutyora zvipingamupinyi uye zvisingakwanisi, pamwe nemafungiro angu, uye kuvhurika kune zvisingazivikanwe uye zvakasiyana." Muunganidzwa wake wairatidza mweya wekusununguka uyu, uye waipfuura varume netsika. Iyo mise-en-scène yaive neakakandirwa emavara anoyevedza: makororo eSardinian muScottish kilts; rustic nomads kubva kumaruwa mune rough tweed jaketi; vafambi vakapfeka hood uye fur, vane zvidimbu zvemajaketi akafukidzwa ecamouflage; vafambi vakapfeka nguwo dzedonje dzinorema, dzine mafuta. Mishonga yakapararira kwese kwese, ichiwedzera kune chikadzi vibe iyo yakanyura ichidzika kusvika kune parade yemapfekero akareba akanaka kubva muunganidzwa wePre-Fall yevakadzi. Dzaive dzakapfekwa nemakushe zvekuda kubatwa neregal whimsy. Mhedzisiro yacho yese yainakidza, ichisimudzira asi ichiganhurana nezvinoshamisa. Yakanga iri varaidzo yakanaka zvakadaro, uye muunganidzwa wacho hauna kumbonzwa usingadzoreki.