MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
naLUKE LEITCH
Iyi iEtro, saka zita rechiratidziro, "State of Nature," pamwe neratidziro yenzira yekumhanya yepasi pesango, zvakaunza dutu rematsutso remashizha emashizha. Asi kwete: Imba yaMilan inogara yakajairwa yekareidoscopic nhasi yakaratidza wadhiropu yakanyarara zvekuti yaiita sePuritan mukuzvidzora kwayo. Kunyanya sezvo yakauya yakananga mushure meGucci.
Madingindira aive rusticity uye hukama hwemweya. Bhaisikopo rekuvhura rakateedzerwa nekuverenga husky kwaWalt Whitman's cosmically baba "Rwiyo Rwangu" yakaratidza mhando dzisingaite kutema huni, kuputa pombi, uye neimwe nzira kutaurirana. Kufanana nekutenderera kwemaawa makumi maviri nemana ezuva, kuunganidza kwakavhurwa nekuvharwa nerima. Iyo yekuvhura yaive bhachi remupendero wakareba uye bhurugwa rakafara rakati twasu mudonje rebhuruu, dema pamusoro pemucheka mutema wakarukwa nerimwe rakarukwa — iri raspberry rimwe chete — zvese zvakamonerwa nekusarudzika kwezvipfukuto zvakadyiwa. Pakupera kwemuunganidzwa, boka rezvitarisiko zvitema rakasimudzwa zvese mukugadzira uye kushongedza - vaisanganisira jekete rehussar dema reHendrix - asi ivo vaive vachiri vatema.
Zuva pakati pehusiku uhwu rakaona nguva dzakajeka - tirauzi mune yero kana yebhuruu suede, mamwe anoyevedza jacquard majaketi eshinda emhuka aive nehafu-inogutsa yeprotein fuzz - asi mukati meteorological system yeEtro, kwaitonhora. Idzi dzaive mbatya dzemumusha dzakakwirira. Cheviot wools uye brown-spectrum cheki akauya akaiswa zvigamba ne suede kuti itaridzike kushanda. Paive nemahovhorosi matanhatu, mamwe suede uye mamwe tweed. Shangu idzi dzaive dzebhurogi dzine mapaneru evelvet kana suede yekufarira yepamusoro yakanyungudutswa kune yakakwira zvishoma macrepe soles. Imwe cheki sutu yakadhindwa nemumvuri wemashizha, uye mwanakomana waKean Etro ane makore 15, Gerolamo akaita dambarefu rake rekutanga akapfeka jasi remvere remvere. Paiva neimwe paisley—zvaifanira kuva—asi izvi zvaitaurwa zvinyoro-nyoro sezvinoitwa naEtro. Sei wakanyarara kudaro, Kean? “Kungonzwa chete. Zvinhu zvese zvanyanya kuderedzwa. Saka unogona kuteerera kumhepo nekuzevezera kwemusikirwo.”