MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
naLUKE LEITCH
Takatanga neinodhura, inoyevedza, inonyudza yesango rine sinou rakapfurwa kubva pakuona kwemumwe munhu anotenderera, nedzungu. Pamurwiyo, Björk Björk-ed, nekusimbirira kwake kwese kwese kwese kwese kwese kwekubwinya. Takanga tave kuda kuona imwe mhando yekuputsika kwechando kune yakanakisa Abruzzo tailoring? Kwete zvakanyanya. Uku kwanga kuri kwechiroto chemasikati, fungidziro yeAlpine kubva pakakwirira kusvika pakakwirira uye nekudzoka zvakare - zvese zvisati zvatsvedza kumashure kuseri kwedhesiki rako.
Sutu dzacho dzaive dzakanaka, dzakatemerwa muviri, zviuno zvakakwidibira kurebesa yese. Takatanga nesutu yegrey, asi ipapo jekiseni rehiking boot pachinzvimbo cheguta shoe rakanongedza kune kukwira kumberi. Mavara acho akachinja—kuchinja kubva kuguta kuenda kune rechisikigo—kusvika pamwoyo wakasvibira wegirinhi. Paive nemafurs maviri anoshamisa emonochrome snippets akabatanidzwa muherringbone. Murume wedu akanga akakwirira, asi achiri kucherechedza maitiro ake emazuva ose. Paive nerudzi rwekusvuta kwemuimbi uye inodzokororwa yeBeuys-meets-Alpine hat yaizevezera yekudzvinyirirwa kwekuunganidza simba.
Backstage Brendan Mullane akatsanangura zvidimbu zvejecha uye kudhindisa zvakanyanya, kuwedzera nekubvisa izvo zvakange zvaiswa pahembe idzi kuvakweretesa kudzika kwepentinto. Brioni yakadzika midzi mune yakasimukira-yakasimukira formalism, mask yakasimukira yemurume. Zvakadaro Mullane anoyedza miganho yeichi chimiro uye, sezvaanodaro, anoona kuti ichine dzimwe nzvimbo dzisina kurongwa dzekurota.