MILAN, JANUARY 16, 2016
naLUKE LEITCH
Nzvimbo yepakati pechirimo muSicily inoputika huruva nekupisa zvekuti inofanana neiyo epic, yakaoma vistas yeSergio Leone's spaghetti Westerns. Ongororo iyi-yakaitwa, Stefano Gabbana akati, pane imwe nzvimbo yakadzika pakati pePalermo neCatania-ndiyo yakakonzeresa kuunganidzwa uko nhasi kwave kusanganisa huzhinji hweWestern motifs. Asi nepo vapfuri vatanhatu, cacti, ngoro, ngowani dzemombe, vatasvi vamabhiza, uye ma<em>lassos akanga ari kwose kwose pahembe, akanga asiri mazviri. Iyo yakasimba yekuvhura yekuveura poncho yakaparadzana, pakanga pasina imwe yeWild West-chaiyo-chap neheti-zvatakaona kekupedzisira imba ino ichitendeukira kumunda, muchikamu chezana remakore rezana rinopfeka zvipfeko zvevakadzi zvakapfekwa naMadonna maari. “Usandiudza” vhidhiyo.
Saka zvisinei neMorricone uye neguruva haze mamodheru akarovera panzira, ichi chaive muunganidzwa chinopindirana nekudzokororwa kwazvino kwemurume weDolce & Gabbana. Paiva nemushandi wekuSicilian aipisa, asina nguva, akapfeka jasi rejasi uye kepu yakapfava, kana kuti akapfeka majasi ekugera anotsvaira, mamwe mabhurugwa ekugera asingakanganwike, uye majohn akarukwa mbabvu refu. Paive neyakajairwa aficionado yechipfeko chemazuva ano chemumugwagwa mukuveura dikita rakashongedzwa nemoyo unoyera wemba uye sneakers dzeVelcro monk-strap dzakashongedzwa nemvere. Chikuru chaivepo pane zvese yaive archetype yeinternational playboy princeling, yakashongedzwa musheti chena yepombi yakanyatsoiswa uye nerima rekugadzira raipenya nekunakisa kana tonal jacquard. Nekuda kwekupedzisira, vagadziri vakamhanyisa kudhumhana kwemapijama emazuva esirika, vamwe vakabatana neruko: Vanodaro, kutarisa uku, kuri kumutsa madhiri muzvitoro zvakare.
Westernalia yaisava iyo yega yemwaka yakasaswa pamusoro pekuunganidza uku. Mishonga yakatutirwa pamabhachi epamusoro uye mabhachi erori - chikamu chedenim chaive chekumira pamusoro - chaisanganisira tapestried roses uye putti. Chairira patsva chaive chiratidzo chenyuchi pacheni dzegoridhe, zvigamba, nemapyjama. Paive neshanduro dzekuMadokero dzakafanana dzefaux-naif mifananidzo kubva kune vagadziri vemazuva ano mamma-themed vakadzi vakapfeka show-imwe, pane sweatshirt, inoratidzwa Domenico naStefano-uye kunyangwe mimwe mifananidzo yememe-tastic yeZambia, katsi yaStefano. Paive nezvakawanda zvaiitika pano - iwo mamodheru aishandisa mahwendefa kuti ararame-yekuyerera-yekuona runway vhidhiyo kune zviratidziro zviri pamusoro pedu, zvakare - zvekuti kuburikidza neguruva zvese dzimwe nguva zvainzwa senge peyote-yakafuridzirwa menswear mirage. Zvidhonze zvese zvakapatsanurwa, zvakadaro, uye izvo zvaunazvo ndezvimwe zvepamusoro-soro-zve-mutsara wekugadzira uye extrovert outerwear mubhizinesi-pamwe neaya maD&G-apayona mapijama (ayo ave kuita chikamu chavo vega).