MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
naALEXANDER FURY
Fashoni haifanire kunge iri yekumisa, kana kuseta kupfeka. Zvakadaro, imba yekurera yaTrussardi yePalazzo Brera — imba ine nhurikidzwa yeMilanese yakagadzirwa naGiuseppe Piermarini — inoyevedza. Kana usati wasangana nazvo, ruoko rwakafanana rwakasarudza Teatro alla Scala, iyo inokupa iwe pfungwa yekunaka uye kukanganisa. Zvakanaka chaizvo.
Nekudaro, iyo palazzo zvakare inyanzvi hub yeMilan; ine zvakawanda zveRenaissance masterpieces uye academy yekupenda. Izvi zvinoenderana neTrussardi-muna 1996, iyo label yakamisa hwaro hwayo hwemazuva ano, inotsigira kuratidzwa kwakaitwa naMaurizio Cattelan, Elmgreen naDragset, naMartin Creed. Yakatumidzwa zita raNicola Trussardi, uyo asina kumisa zita (ndivo vaive baba vake) asi akarisimudzira mubudiriro yepasirese. Iyo kambani ichiri nyaya yemhuri: Tomaso Trussardi ndiye CEO, Maria Luisa Trussardi mutungamiri, uye Gaia Trussardi mutungamiriri wekugadzira.
Kuunganidzwa kwezvipfeko zviviri zvekupedzisira zveGaia zvakaiswa muBrera, zvichisimbisa kufarira kwake varume vehunyanzvi-kureva, muchimiro chavo. KweChirimo, mamodheru anoverenga zvinonzwika muraibhurari yechivakwa; zvipfeko, zvisinei, zvakanga zviri zvemitambo. Mwaka uno, vaimbi vaifamba-famba nemumikoridho, uye muunganidzwa wacho pachawo wakapinzwa nemweya wakazara we'70s rock iyo yakaita seyakapinda mune imwe neimwe muunganidzwa muMilan. Zvose zvakasungwa pamwe chete zvakanaka.
Paunosvika pasi kune nitty-gritty yezvipfeko, hatisi kutaura Bowie kana Ferry mune yavo outré, lamé retro-futuristic glam incarnations; zvaive zvakanyanya kufanana naPaul Weller naJohn Lennon, avo vane chimiro chakaratidza kunyanya kushamisa nokuti chakadhonzwa kubva kune zvakasiyana, zvinhu zvemazuva ose-corduroy uye tweed jackets; shati dzesilika dzine zvisungo zvinowirirana; palette yakaderedzwa yeblues, grey, uye yevhu toni dze sepia uye terra-cotta. Izvozvi ndezvenguva dzose, asi manyorerwo avakanyora agara aripo. Ichiri neshuviro yekudhonza kune varume vanoshuvira basa rinogara risina zvibereko rekutaridzika zvakanaka.
Iwe haugone kutenga inotonhorera, hongu. Zvakangodaro, hunyanzvi hwaTrussardi mumatehwe nematehwe hwakakwanisa kukwidziridza nyaya, fungidziro yekuti kana usingakwanise kutenga inotonhorera, unogona kutengesa zveumbozha. Mienzaniso: bhachi dzvuku redehwe rine mukati rakasungwa mvere dzemakwai uye rakasvibira ivhu-kuveura tsvuku ine intarsia ye oversize lumberjack cheki mumhuru. Vaive vasingaonekwi asi vakasiyana nevamwe. Ripe kune chero mutengi weumbozha kuti adhonze muwadhiropu yavo uye apfeke zvachose. Kutonhora.