Pazita remuunganidzwa Gucci Epilogue, Alessandro Michele akati: “Kwandiri Epilogue ishoko rekufananidzira rakakodzera kuguma kwegadziriro—tiri kutarisa imwe nzira yokuita nayo zvinhu.” Iyi ndiyo Gucci Menswear Resort 2021 muMilan.
Sezvo mavhiki maviri edhijitari fashoni "inoratidza" inotenderera kune zvikwereti, ndiwo mavhidhiyo anotora husinganzwisisike mhando yehuchokwadi hunogara nesu. Mamwe maitiro akanakisa: gritty inogona trump glam, process ndiyo zvese, uye vagadziri vanowanzo gadzira zviri nani zvemukati pane modhi. Tese tinogona kubvumirana, ndinofunga, kuti mazuva ekudhirowa vanhu vakanaka vachitamba pamberi pekamera vachiidaidza kuti kuputira apera.
Gucci's Alessandro Michele haana kumbove ari kumusoro-uye-pasi nzira yerudzi rwemugadziri. Panguva yake yekutanga kuratidzwa kwechiratidzo, yakaitirwa muNew York kumashure muna 2015, mamodheru akafamba achiyambuka mugwagwa weWest Chelsea asati apinda mukati menzvimbo yemifananidzo; chaive chiratidziro chakatarisana neveruzhinji zvisati zvave chinhu.
Kukadzi wapfuura, mazuva dambudziko rekoronavirus risati ratanga pedyo neMilan, akaita show mumutambo waishamisa uye wepedyo kamwechete. Mukutarisa, zvinotaridzika kunge zvine hunyanzvi: Mukukoka vateereri kuseri kwezviitiko uye kufumura zviri kuitika kumashure kwebvudzi uye vashandi vekugadzira uye vanopfeka modhi Michele aipemberera zvinhu chaizvo izvo isu tese tiri kurasikirwa zvakanyanya muCOVID-19- nguva: kusangana kwevanhu, kubatana, kuva chikamu chevateereri vanogamuchira.
"Fashion haisiriyo yatinosarudza kuratidza," Michele akadaro paWhatsApp vhidhiyo kufona pakutanga kwesvondo rino.
“Pfungwa yekuti mushandirapamwe ipepa chete? Aiwa, pane imwe show mushoo. " Pfungwa ye12-awa livestream iyo brand yakagadzirwa kunzvimbo yekutandarira, yaanodaidza kuti "Epilogue," uye yakaitwa panguva inobwinya yeRenaissance-era Palazzo Sacchetti muRome ine ruzha rwechisikigo rwecicadas, ndeyekunyora kushambadzira kushambadzira, kutora izvo. "ratidza mukati meshoo." Panguva ino chete, Michele akatsanangura, "ishoma theatre. Uyu anenge anyanya kusviba. Iwo mashoma makamera nenzira yeAndy Warhol, pamwe ivo vari kutarisa chero chinhu chinonakidza. Kuedza hakushande kana ndikaronga zvakanyanya. " Hongu, hapana zvakawanda zvakaitika mukutungamira kune chikamu chinorondedzera chelivestream chakashanda sekuratidzwa kwemuunganidzwa, asi zvakawanda zvakaitwa.
Zvakarongwa naMichele ndezvekuti vagadziri mustudio yake vaizotevedzera maratidziro enzvimbo yavakashanda pairi, vachiisa "isu" muGucci, muchidimbu. Parunhare rweWhatsApp, akarangarira imwe nguva semugadziri wechidiki apo chidimbu chaakanga achigadzira chakadhonzwa kuti chionekwe kana kupfura uye haana kuchiona zvakare. "Zvakaita sekuti mumwe munhu akaedza kukutorera mwanakomana wako." Kutarisa vamwe vake kwaive "chimwe chinhu chakanaka," akadaro, "vaifara kwazvo."
Kana dziri zvipfeko pachazvo, Michele akazvidana kuti "mhemberero yemaonero angu, zvinhu zvandakaita kare, zvimedu zverunako rwangu." Iyo aesthetics yakafanana uye idiosyncratic sekare, asi ine akawanda. Min Yu Park, mugadziri wevarume akagadzirira kupfeka anopfeka bhachi remaruva rine maruva, rokwe remaruva relace, uye nekiresi yeturquoise inoenderana nebhegi rake raJackie. Alexandra Muller, mugadziri wekushongedza, anoenzanisira bhaisikopo refu remaruva-akadhinda rakarukwa rine mitsara yakajeka inotora mwenje. David Ring, mugadziri ane mukurumbira, anotamba bhurauzi revelvet rakamendwa, tei ine mitsetse, ma logo flare, uye mateki. Alec Soth, mutori wemifananidzo wemushandirapamwe weEpilogue akapfupisa chipo chakasarudzika chaMichele muchidimbu: "kuisa zvinhu zvinopokana kuti zviunze hupenyu hutsva kune chimwe chinhu."
Achifunga nezvedenda rakaunza Gucci kune iyi nzira itsva yekuita zvinhu, Michele akati, "Injodzi. Asi haisi njodzi chete. Chiratidzo chikuru chechimwe chinhu chisiri kufamba nenzira kwayo, inguva yekuzvarwa patsva. " Nguruve yemusango yakaonekwa mumigwagwa yeRoma yakava totem yakavharirwa kwaari, kuvapo kwayo ipapo kunoratidza kugadziridzwa kunodiwa. Kana zvisikwa zvichigona kuzviita, pamwe fashoni inogona, zvakare?
Kudzoka muna Chivabvu Michele akazivisa Gucci yakaderedzwa yeshoo hurongwa, nekukanzura zviratidziro zvekuenda kure kure. Izvi zvinogona kunge zviri zvekupedzisira kuunganidzwa kwemhando, asi zita rekuti "Epilogue" rinogona kunge risiri zita. Dzidzo yekuvhara - kukosha kwechikwata chake, kukosha kwekunzwa - kunonamatira kwaari, anofunga. “Haisi nzira yekuvhara chete, asi kutaura zvataita toisa mhodzi yezvichange zviri muchitsauko chinotevera. Hongu, inogona kunge iri mavambo. "