PARIS, JANUARY 22, 2016
naLUKE LEITCH
Kupedza maminetsi makumi maviri mukamuri moga nomugadziri achitaura nezvechiunganidzwa chake panzvimbo pemaminitsi masere achichiona chiri muboka revanhu asati amhanyira kumusuo kunogona kuva kunonetsa zvikuru. Nokuti inofanira kuyamwa, yakaoma, chii chekuita? Kusajeka pachiso chake, hongu - dana kuti "zvinonakidza" kana kuti bhomba "Wazviita zvakare!" - wobva wamhanyira kumusuwo uye gadzirisa hana yako uchishandisa keyboard. Phillip Lim akaenda showroom mwaka uno. Hapana kukanganisa kwakadanwa: Zvaive zvakanaka. Kunyangwe iyo Marlon Brando kepu yematehwe, yaLim yake, yakanzwa yakawedzera zvisirizvo kupfuti yebhuku.
"Ungapfeka here izvi?" mugadziri akabvunza, achisimudza jasi remumunda pamberi pehoundstooth, rakanamirwa nemambure, uye rakatsigirwa nemufananidzo wakarukwa werunako rweUkiyo-e rwekugeza. Mhinduro yaive "chokwadi" -ine caveat kuti ingangove iyo yebhuruu vhezheni nemahomwe akachekwa. Lim aive nehanya zvakanyanya nekupa basa rake mamiriro. Zvinotapira, akange aunza kunze chigaro chake cheDanish cherudo chakagadziridzwa nemavara etiger kubva kuNew York, pamwe netafura yekudivi yehamburger uye piro yedenderedzwa yakavharwa nevinyl tsvuku yairatidzika kunge isina kunaka - akataura kuti tsika dzechiFrench dzaive mazviri. Kuongorora kwemukati kwenguva refu. Paive nehove yegoridhe, French, paLim's mise-en-scène kofi tafura (akapa chipo kune imwe yemamodheru kuti imubatsire kuvhura social media profile mushure memharidzo).
Zvinotaridzika zvinopa kamuri, uye izvo zvinoratidzwa mune ino zvaisanganisira zvimwe zvidimbu zvikuru. Shirting-biker bhachi jekete rakasanganiswa raive rakajeka rekurongedzera hwaro. Chimiro chehembe dzemazuva ose chinoti mupfeki ndiye chete; izvi zvakaita basa rimwechete nekamwe kekureruka kekuziva. Avo vainzi mishmash field jackets vaidiwa. Mamwe akapfava akapfava ebhasikiti akakabudura (uye bhachi rechirangaridzo rinoenderana) iro rinogona kushandurwa kuita ingwe-kudhinda kwakanaka kwaive nekukwezva zvinogutsa zvenyama kwavari. Mabhachi emotokari ane mavara ane mavara uye jacquard topcoat yaive yakasimba zvakanyanya kune imwe nzira kana imwe. Lim's wool track pants, yakabatwa poplin pajama jumpsuit, nylon ingwe jaketi-jaketi, uye girinhi zip yekubhururuka sutu zvese zvakasanganiswa zvakasiyana pane multilayered, utility-based, inoshongedza inhumbu inoyevedza iyo Lim, fenicha uye zvese, epitomize.