PARIS, JANUARY 24, 2016
naALEXANDER FURY
Nostalgia chinhu chine simba, sezvakaratidzwa mwaka uno. Kana vanhu vanga vasingazvishore, vaizvizivisa sekurudziro yavo huru inotevera. Kurangarira zvinhu zvakapfuura kune simba rekudhonza fashoni, uko kumutswa kwemakumi emakore apfuura kunogara kutenderera mumadenderedzwa anoramba achidzikira. Sezvineiwo, Yves Saint Laurent akada zvishoma zveProust-kune Louis Vuitton kesi yakaitwa kuti itakure mavhoriyamu ake parizvino ari kuratidzwa kuGrand Palais, mukuratidzira kwakapihwa kune nhoroondo yemhando iyi. Vuitton, ndinoreva; kunyangwe paine Saint Laurent museum ichangokwira rue.
Simba rekurangarira raive zano rakatariswa naThom Browne: Show yake yekudonha yaive, akadaro, vangangoita vakomana gumi nevatatu vaishanyira kirabhu yevarume vavo yemakore makumi matatu apfuura, pamwe panyama, zveshuwa. Saka chokwadi chipfeko chega chega chakaonekwa mu triptych: yekutanga mumamvemve; ipapo mwero wakareruka wekutambudzika; pakupedzisira, yakachena. Imwe neimwe yairatidza misiyano yezvipfeko zvekare zvechirume-majasi emuswe, majasi echiuto, machesterfields akachekwa nemvere-uye aive akapfekedzwa ngowani yembiya yakanyungudutswa kumeso. Yakanga isiri nzira yekuparara, asi yekuzvarwa patsva, kudzokera kune yaimbova mbiri. Pakutanga, mhando mbiri dzakarova guruva kubva pakupfeka kwekirabhu yevakomana vekare, kusanganisira chandelier, macheya ekumashure, uye gumi nemaviri emafuremu akacheneswa.
Mu À la Recherche du Temps Perdu, Proust anowira mukubvutwa pamusoro pendangariro dzakamutswa netii-dunked madeleine. Paive nezvakawanda zvekudya zvakafanana zvekufunga paBrowne show: ndangariro dzisingaite-pfungwa dzakamutswa nekusaziva, asi dzinowanzova nesimba. Sezvo mienzaniso yakatora nzvimbo yavo, iyo yepakutanga yakakwana inotarisana nembiri ye "zvisina kukwana" zvinyengeri, zvakanga zviri nyore kuona mumvuri weDorian Grey-kwete chete nekuda kwemuvara wehuya dzinodiwa naBrown. Mienzaniso yakaipa iyoyo inogona kunge iri mufananidzo wake une mafuta, uyo kuchiva kwepwere kunoratidza maitiro efashoni. Isu tose hatimanikidzwi kupupurira kuora kwedu pachedu mazuva ano here? Uye haisi nguva iyo chinhu chimwe chete kunyange vakapfuma havagone kutenga? Hatikwanise kuidzosera kumashure, zvirokwazvo. Nguva yaive yekushuvira kwemuimbi René Magritte, uye pakanga paine maungira asingapokane ebasa rake muheti dzemasking bowler, kudzokorora, mafuremu asina chinhu.
Nguva ndechimwe chinhu vagadziri vagara vachiratidzira sehumbowo hwechokwadi, kunyanya mumakore mashoma apfuura, kana ichiwedzera kukosha. Zvakatora nguva yakawanda kugadzira zvipfeko izvi, zvakare, zvaive zveumbozha pasina mubvunzo. Zvimwe zvezvigamba, zvinoshungurudza, uye kubvaruka nemaune zvakaita kuti vasina kukwana vanyanye kushanda nesimba—kunyanya kunaka—kupfuura zvipfeko zvisina gwapa. "Dzimwe nguva yakanyanya kunaka," akadaro Browne, weparera akasunungurwa akashongedzwa pacape pfupi uye jeti-yakashongedzwa tailcoat.
Wakarangarirawo nzira dzekumhanya kubva kunguva dzekare, apo vagadziri vakanyatsobuda-kunze kunotangisa show, kumutsa nyaya kuburikidza nehembe dzavo. Hakuchina vazhinji vakasara vechikoro chekare. Pamwe nguva dzachinja; kana kuti pamwe vagadziri havana zvakawanda zvekutaura, kana nguva yekuzvitaura, mune inomhanyisa sisitimu yenzira yemazuva ano. Thom Browne matanho ekuratidzira mwaka wega wega wehembe dzechirume; anopa Pre-Fall miunganidzwa uye anoratidza vakadzi zvipfeko munguva shoma yemavhiki maviri. Hapana mubvunzo kuti nguva iri mupfungwa dzake.
Mafashoni akanaka anogona kutaura pamatanho akawanda. Ramble on about Oscar Wilde naProust naBrown vanogona kubwaira zvisina basa (akandiitira). Pahwaro hwayo, chiratidziro ichi chaivewo nezve nzira yekugadzira yekuratidza zvipfeko zvinobata, zvakagadzirwa zvakanaka, asi zvine chirevo chakavanzika chakamisikidzwa mumusono wega wega. Imwe yekuwana nostalgic pamusoro, kana iwe uri mukurangarira kukuru kwemafashoni anoratidza apfuura.