Virgil Abloh akaisa padedhi yekutamba uye yany izere nepfungwa yekushamisika senge yemwana kune yake yekutanga yakasanganiswa show format.
Virgil Abloh anotangisa kumira kwekutanga kwe #LouisVuitton muunganidzwa wake chaiwo uye chaiwo rwendo kutenderera pasirese. Kubva pamusha wemadzitateguru eMaison kunze kweParis, boka revanhu vane mavara-mavara vakafamba senzira dzekutakura mumidziyo yekutakurisa yekutakura kusvika kuchiteshi cheShanghai.
"Chaizvoizvo, zvakaita sekunyora ini neboka reshamwari dzangu," Virgil Abloh akadaro parunhare kubva kuChicago nezuro, pamberi pechiratidziro chevarume cheLouis Vuitton chakaitika pachiteshi muShanghai nhasi.
Abloh aikurukura nezvemaitiro mazhinji-akabatikana ekufunga akarukwa muchinhu uye chiratidzo, uye vese-vatema vabatanidzi - maanimators, vaimbi, uye stylist Ibrahim Kamara - waakaunza panguva yekuvharirwa, mhinduro yake kune zvaakatsanangura se "zvinonetsa izvi. nguva ... gore rino rekuverengera."
Louis Vuitton Men's Spring-Zhizha 2021 Show muShanghai
Chiitiko ichi chaive chiitiko chekare-chekare "chakaitika" chinoshamisira, chakaitwa pamberi pevaenzi veko vaive vakagara mumitsara sezvaiwanzoitwa nevateereri Kubvumbi vasati vasvika, vasingapfeki masiki. Models dzakakandwawo munharaunda. “Kuungana kwakachengeteka ikoko,” akadaro. Zvakadaro kana director wekugadzira, iye zvino ari kumba kuAmerica, kana chero ani zvake anobva kudzimbahwe reLV kuParis anga aenda kuChina.
Mbatya chete dzaiyambuka makondinendi. Uye apa ndipo pakatora Abloh mutsara wenyaya, wakatanga mukati meiyo animation Zoooom With Friends, vhidhiyo yakazara nemhuka yekatuni "stowaways" uyo akasvetukira muL.V. midziyo yekutakura. Vakapedzisira kuonekwa muna Chikunguru, vachiyangarara vachienda pachikepe paSeine pakupera kwechirongwa chakakurumbira cheYouTube chaakatuma kubva kuBlack animation director Reggie Ziva muLA
Nhasi chikepe chakanga chamira, uye mamodheru aifambiswa kufamba kubva mumabhokisi chaiwo ekutakura akaturikidzana pachiteshi chengarava cheShanghai, uye pontoon yakabatana inoyangarara murwizi. "Masvondo matatu kana mana apfuura, Ibrahim Kamara neni takagadzira uye takarongedza zvese muParis tikazvitumira sezvaunozviona." Paive neparedhi yekuvhurwa kwevarume vakapfeka mahovhorosi eturquoise uye mabhandana kumeso anoenderana nemasks akabata makore ari mudenga neshiri dzegungwa.
Giant inflatables yeL.V. zvisikwa zvekatuni zvakagara pamidziyo yegungwa ine pendi tsvuku.
Uye zvakaenderera mberi muunganidzwa uyo wakatenderedzwa kumashure kuti usimbise mweya wezvese zvaitwa naAbloh pamba kubva muchirimo 2019 - kutanga nemhando yemazuva ano yekupfeka uye kupera nekutsemuka kwekucheka uye denga rebhuruu seMagritte uye gore rinodhinda kubva mukudonha kwekupedzisira. asi akazoisimudzira mberi mune yaakatsanangura se "hypnovisualism": kusimbiswa kweiyo Black imagination.
Rondedzero yokusununguka kwendangariro iyoyo yakaoneswa muchiratidziro chake inoti: “Nyika inoshamisa yokubatanidzwa nokubatana, inofungidzira nyika kupfurikidza nechiono chisina kushatiswa chomwana, asati ashatiswa nepurogiramu yenzanga.” Mukati mehasha dzekupondwa kwaGeorge Floyd, shanduko iyo Abloh anomira kumashure ndeye Sun Ra's Afrofuturism, simba re "kufungidzira imwe nyika" -yakaitwa muhupenzi hutatu hwemagirazi ezuva akagadzirwa nemafuremu asina kufananidzwa, uye muchimiro. yeicon yeruva yakatorwa kubva mukirasi LV dhinda.
Mukufungidzira kwaAbloh, kuenderera mberi kwakabatana nenhaka yake yeGhanian, uye nekufunga nezvebasa rake sababa vaMutema. "Ndine vana vanofanirwa kugara pamwe chete," akadaro. "Uye zviri pachena, ini handidi kuti vazosangana nematambudziko ataisangana nawo." Mufananidzo wekatuni wakaputirwa, waive pese pakugadzirwa — uchibuda mu 3D, wakaroverwa kumabhachi eruvara rwekutanga, uye uchidongorera kubva mumabhegi — trope inodzokera kuzuva raaive kunze “kutengera vana vangu zvipo. .”
Pamusoro peiyo mwaka alfabheti yaanotumira kunze kwakauya zvakanyanya kuudza biographical mutero kuvabereki vake. "Abloh, Eunice: amai vaVirgil Abloh, vakakurira pakati peAccra, Ghana. Mushure mekusangana naNee Abloh, akabatana naye muRockford, Illinois, muna 1973, kwaakashanda semusona. Eunice akadzidzisa mwanakomana wake kushandisa muchina wokusonesa, kushanda nesimba nguva dzose, uye kuramba aine tsitsi.”
"Abloh, Nee: baba vaVirgil Abloh, vakakurira muguta remumhenderekedzo yegungwa reTema, kuGhana, uye vakashanda muchiteshi chezvikepe cheAccra vachiburutsa mabhokisi ekutakura zvinhu."
Echoes mukati memaungira! Hazvisi zvese zvinogara zvichionekwa pamusoro pezvinoitwa naAbloh, asi ndiyo nzira yaanayo: "Nuance mutambo wangu. Inzwi rangu rakawanda rezvikamu uye zvirevo." Kuenderera mberi muunganidzwa, akafunga nezve fusion yeJamaican ska uye yeBritish multiracial two tone mimhanzi ye'70s uye '80s-saka psychedelic black-and-white checkerboard prints, iyo yakabva yagadzira smart Vuitton segue muDamier-yakatariswa. masutu uye bhutsu dzinotsvedza. Paiva nesweatshirt ine mitsetse yegirinhi, yeyero, uye matsvuku emureza wechiRasta; kusona kwepamapfudzi kwakagadzirwa mukukudza baba vake. "Ndiri kufunga, ndiri wekuGhana - unoita sei sutu yemuAfrica?"
Paiva nezvimwe. Rimwe remagwaro aiperekedza iro rakasvika nechiratidziro rakanzi "Upcycling Ideology," richitsanangura tsananguro iri kuseri kwendima inotaridza kuvhura. Zvimwe zvezvimedu, zvinobuda, zvakagadzirwa nemucheka wakadzokororwa wakawandisa. Vamwe "vakatorwa kubva kupfungwa dzakadzokororwa" kana "kudzokorora kubva mumwaka wapfuura." Kumbomira kwekuvharirwa kwakapa Abloh "nguva yekubvunza nezve chimiro chefashoni. Ndakasvika pakunyanya kufunga nezvehukama hwevanhu pasi. Ndakasarudza kuti pane zvakawanda zvakaiswa pane 'itsva' mumafashoni. Ndiri kutaura kumutengi wangu kuti kukosha hakudzike nekufamba kwenguva. "
Kana paive nemusimboti wakakura, chokwadi chaive chirevo chehunhu-mutsika, mune zvine chekuita nemabatiro anoita munhu munzvimbo yehutungamiriri munharaunda. Pakati pechiratidziro, chidzitiro chakaonekwa padivi pemudziyo kuratidza chiitiko chakatorwa naLauryn Hill, coup isingawanzo yakavakirwa, sekuziviswa kwaAbloh muvhidhiyo yekupedzisira, mukubatana neMLH Foundation, "kubatsira Vatema. mabhizinesi akakanganiswa neCCIDID-19 nemamwe matambudziko. ”
Izvi zvinei nechekuita nekuratidzwa kwefashoni yeumbozha? Kuna Virgil Abloh, nguva yasvika yekuti kushandisa simba repuratifomu yake kwapfuura izvo. "Fashion iri kuitirwa kuita chimwe chinhu izvozvi chisiri fungidziro yembatya," akapedzisa mukufona kwake kubva kuChicago. "Pane basa rekuratidza nzira yekumberi."
Inotungamirwa na @virgilabloh
Mutungamiriri weMhuka: Reggie Ziva (@fashionfigureinc)
Musical score by The SA-RA Creative Partners™️ @saracreativepartnersinfo (@tazarnold, @shafiqhusayn & @ommaskeith)
Feature: Gary Bartz @bartzoyo
Musical Direction by @_benjib & @virgilabloh
Inzwi pamusoro : @tierrawhack & @buddy