Fashoni, akadaro mutungamiriri wekugadzira zvinhu Francesco Risso, “nezve‘isu.’” Akataura pfungwa iyoyo nevhidhiyo ine shamwari dzinopfuura 40 yakatorwa mumaguta 12 pasi pose, kubva kuShanghai kusvika kuGrand Island, Neb.
MARNIFESTO muunganidzwa mutsva naCreative Director Francesco Risso weChirimo/Zhizha 2021 vakakumbira vanhu makumi mana nevasere kubva pasirese kuti vararame hupenyu hwavo mumachira eMarni.
Pavanenge vachitorwa mifananidzo uye kutorwa mifananidzo neshamwari dzavo, mhuri nevadikani. Nzvimbo yacho chero zvavari. Kubva kuDakar kuenda kuTokyo, kubva kuMilan kuenda kuNew York. Show inyaya dzavo dzese.
Fashoni "haisi pamusoro pe'ini"; inotaura nezve‘isu.’” Akadaro Francesco Risso waMarni panguva yekufanoona kwekuunganidza kwake kwechirimo. Panguva ino inoshamisa, Risso akasarudza kunzvenga kurudziro yechinyakare - hapana nzvimbo kana imwe pfungwa yakafanorongeka. Asi, akatarisa pane pfungwa yekuti fashoni yechokwadi inodzika midzi muboka revanhu vanobatanidzwa mukuzadzikiswa kwayo - avo vanoigadzira uye avo vanoipfeka. Aive neutachiona hwepfungwa pre-COVID-19, uye zvakatora simba rakasimba sezvo denda rakachinja hupenyu hwedu nenyika.
Kuti ataure pfungwa yake, Risso akaronga mharidzo yepedyo, ine chido chevhidhiyo: livestream iyo yaizobatanidza nhoroondo dzevanhu vanopfuura 40 mumaguta akawanda pasi rose, vamwe vaitarisira, vamwe kwete: Asheville, N.C.; Dakar, Senegal; Detroit; Grand Island, Neb.; London; Los Angeles; Milan; New York; Paris; Philadelphia; Shanghai, uye Tokyo. "Kwete modhi asi vanhu.…Kwete nzvimbo, asi nyika," zvinyorwa zvake zveshoo akadaro. Pakanga paine yakawanda yekukanganisa, kupihwa mélange yemifananidzo yepasirese uye chokwadi chekuti kutora firimu kwakaitwa na, bhaisikopo rakati, "mhuri / shamwari dzine makamera." Risso nechikwata chake vakaidhonza zvakanaka.
Zvino, yakanga isiri iyo chaiyo seyakatsanangurwa mugadziri mukutarisisa. Akataura nezvechiitiko chehupenyu hwese, uye akati kwete-mienzaniso-asi-vanhu-vanhu vakatumirwa zvipfeko kuti vaende navo. Hongu uye kwete. Zvikamu zvevhidhiyo zvakafanopfurwa, uye yekupedzisira kiredhiti inocherekedza kutora chikamu kweAAA-rondedzero stylist Camilla Nickerson.
Zvisinei. Pfungwa yacho inopindirana: Mafashoni haasi ezvipfeko chete. Zviri pamusoro pehupenyu uye ese emanzwiro uye zvimiro zvinosanganisirwa mazviri. Isu tinoona zvipfeko - kana zvakanyanya, vanhu vakapfeka zvipfeko - mune akawanda-chaiwo mamiriro ezvinhu: munzira yepasi pevhu, muchitoro chegirosari, vachidzidzira cello, kupenda mufananidzo.
VAKARUKWA PAMWE CHETE
Vhidhiyo iyi yakagadzirwa nehungwaru kusvika kunoperera iyo inoshanda senzira diki. Munhu mumwe nemumwe aisarudza nzvimbo yekufamba uye akatorwa vhidhiyo ipapo, zvichibvumira vaoni kutarisa-ku-kugunwe kutarisa zvipfeko. Pane zvakawanda zvokutora mukati. Effussive graffiti-like graphics yakabva kune in-house nhetembo-kunyora purojekiti. High-intensity mitsetse mumatema, tsvuku uye machena. Zvirukwa zvinoshungurudzika. Dissonant layerings. Kunze-kune-uko skirt volumes. Zvizhinji zvacho zvinomanikidza, zvichiratidza kuwedzeredza kweunyanzvi kune kukwezva, kana kupenga, kuita. Uye yakasanganiswa mukati, isingawanzo nguva yekudzikama: sutu chena yedenim; jasi dema-ne-chena rakapatsanurwa pamusoro pepamusoro uye siketi, chic mupfungwa yechinyakare.
Anenge asina kumbopfekwa nenhengo dzakakandwa: masks, kushomeka kwavo kunyoresa chete mushure mekunge mumwe munhu aisa imwe. Zvadaro, kushaikwa kwemasiki kunorova sezvisinganzwisisike, zvichipihwa chirevo chekutora hupenyu chaihwo munguva chaiyo.
Iro caveat yakakosha parutivi, "rondedzero" dzakasiyana dzeRisso dzakakandwa dzinoita nharo yakasimba yehuchokwadi uye kukosha kwefashoni. Sepamusoro-soro sezvipfeko, vanhu vanozvipfeka vanozviita zvavo zvinotendwa, uye nekudaro, teregirafu kuti kupfeka mufashoni chaiyo kune musoro kuhupenyu hwezuva nezuva.
Chii chinoshaikwa: Chero pfungwa yekuti kuita kudaro kunosimudzira mweya. Nepo vagadziri vazhinji vari kutamba kune pfungwa yekuti munguva dzakaora fashoni inogona kuita chikamu chayo che psyche, Risso haaiti nyaya yakadaro pano. Hongu, kune kunyemwerera kushoma uye kuseka kana maviri, asi zvakazara, hapana pfungwa yekuti vanhu vari muvhidhiyo vanowana chero mafaro kubva kune avo akashinga, ane simba, anotsvaga kutarisa. Idzi hadzisi mbatya dzisina basa. Uye kana iwe uchaita nhamburiko, zvipfeko hazvifaniri kuunza mufaro muduku here?
MARNIFESTO:
Creative Director: Francesco Risso @asliceofbambi
Art Director: @babakradboy
Vhidhiyo Director: @talrosner
Maitiro: #camillanickerson@artpartner
Kukandira: @midlandagency
Kugadzirwa: @kennedyldn