"Zvinotanga panzvimbo yatakambove tese pane imwe nguva, isu tose, mupfungwa dzedu. Kwete chaizvo, panyama, nekuti isu tese takagadzira yedu yekuzvimiririra yenzvimbo ino uye manzwiro. Uye zvishoma nezvishoma inotsiviwa sezvatinoona, uye tinosununguka, kusvika tasununguka-uye zvinozoguma nekudya kwakanaka kwemanheru. "
Saka Alessandro Sartori akatsanangura Ermenegildo Zegna's spring collection firimu, iyo EDM-yakagadziriswa metaphysical denda rondedzero yakatora mamodheru ayo kubva kuThe Shining-esque discombobulation yekuvharirwa ega muTurin maze husiku kuenda kuThe Truman Show surreal yeshamwari yekufamba-pamvura. akasanganazve chisvusvuro muMilan-pamberi peKuve John Malkovich / Kusingaperi Kwezuva OTSM yakaita-Izvo-kunyange-zvinoitika twist.
Hongu Zvakaitika, uye zvichiri zvakadaro, kunyangwe Sartori achifunga zvisina kurongwa kuti iyi ichave yekupedzisira EZ yekupedzisira zana inoratidzwa muunganidzwa. "Zvisinei, ini ndinoda kuchengetedza zvimwe zvemadhijitari zvatakawana mugore rapfuura kana zvakadaro, uye nekuzvisanganisa nemuviri wakadzoreredzwa kuti uwedzere pachikamu chekutaura nyaya."
Iko kutaura nyaya kwakagadzirirwa kufambisa kiyi yekutora Zegna yakaunganidzwa kubva kumwedzi gumi nemasere yehiatus, yekutora zvakare yakatsanangurwa muunganidzwa uyu.
Pfungwa ndeyekuveza modhi nyowani yeapex level yezvipfeko zvevarume zvinotora zvese zvehunyanzvi, nyanzvi, uye tekinoroji kubva kuPamberi pasina kuoneswa kune tsvarakadenga yayo muIyezvino uye Mberi: kugadzirisa maitiro eiyo sartorial modhi, chengetedza hunyanzvi uye. ruzivo rwekuvaka, uku uchiramba mirairo yakagara yagara ichiitwa ye sartorial fomu kuitira kuti uenderere mberi kubva pakupera kwezana ramakore rechi 19 kuravira kuitira kuratidza izvo zvezana ramakore rechi 21.
Idaidze post-sartorial tailoring.
Sezvakataurwa naSartori: "mhizha yatama zvachose kubva kumhando dzekare dzekusona kuenda kune idzi mafomu matsva. Chaizvoizvo, tiri kuvaka imba nyowani muNovara yekuvaka mabhachi ese matsva nemasutu uye dzimwe mbatya dzatiri kugadzira. "
Mamodheru ari mubhaisikopo — mamwe acho echikadzi akapfeka ma size-pasi chaiwo ehembe dzechirume — aive akapfekedzwa zvidimbu mumavara akasiyana, zvinhu, uye dhizaini izvo zvese zvakasikwa kuti zvigone kuchinjika uye kupindirana (senge trad gents inogadzira wadhiropu) asi nerunako rwakanatswa.
Hafu mabhachi ekimono ane mabhandi emukati, mabhachi embatya ebasa akadzika muhomwe, mabhurawusi akaiswa, kana mabhachi marefu uye akaonda aiuya zvakasiyana-siyana musilika akarukwa kana dehwe remhuru rakagadzirwa, kana kugadzirwa patsva Trivero shinda kana donje, kana kangaroo, mucheka, hemp, kana kupfuura, uye aive inovakwa uchishandisa sartorial matekiniki (kutsvagisa muhomwe, raglan sleeve).
Zvimwe zvezvimedu zvakarukwa mune yakanaka abstract wool jacquard, asi mazhinji aivimba nematte kana kupenya kwejira rekukwezva ziso. Mavara acho aibvira padema, olive, vanilla, navy kusvika pastel green nepingi.
Pazasi pemabhachi paive neakareba-akareba-akareba makumbo mabhurukwa ane rabha kurapwa kudzivirira kutsemuka pamipendero, iyo yaipfekwa pamusoro pematehwe akaumbwa eslingback sneakers uye akaumbwa chete chukka bhutsu. Zvishandiso zvaisanganisira masatchel ebasa ekangaroo mune anowirirana mavara uye magirazi ezuva ane madiki ma1970-maitiro ekudzivirira mahwindo akarembera pazasi petemberi yega yega.
"Kushandiswa kwezvinhu kwave kudzika zvakanyanya, uye kuenderera mberi nemaitiro ekudzokororwa kuri kutisvitsa kumafiber ataisafungira kare, sehemp nesirika. Chinotariswa ndechekushanda neiyi modular maitiro, kufunga mwaka wega wega kwete wezvausina asi zvaunazvo, uyezve kuti ungazviwedzere sei pasina kurasa chero chinhu asi kuti uwedzere sarudzo dzako uye sarudzo. Pazasi pazvo zvese, ndinofunga, kuti kunyaradza kwave kwakakosha. "
Sartori
Yabuda kubva mumazeze nemaonero matsva egwara, zvichave zvinonakidza kuona kana EZ ichangobva kuumbwa inoyevedza ichabudirira kuburikidza nehupamhi hwepakati-kusvibiswa mukati meiyo menswear ecosystem: hapana chikonzero nei isingafanire kudaro, uye chikonzero chese nei ichigona.