Iri panguva chaiyo yekupemberera kwayo makore makumi manomwe neshanu muna Ndira apfuura imba yeBrioni yakaita kunge yakazviwana iri padanho rakareruka mushure mekutsungirira makore akati wandei emhepo ine dutu. Manheru emusi iwoyo a2020 kuPitti muFlorence, Kering's François-Henri Pinault akaita mabiko akanaka echisvusvuro mune yainakidza palazzo yakatevedzwa nevaimbi vepasirese vepasirese vepasirese, avo vairatidzika zvakanaka sezvavainzwika sechinhu chinoshamisira mukutaura kwaNorbert Stumpfl kuchangobva kusimbiswa. yeBrioni's peerless Abruzzo kugadzira hunyanzvi.
NaBrad Pitt ari kuita mishandirapamwe, chii chinogona kukanganisa?
Kurumidza kusvika masikati ano, apo antenna yemutori wenhau iyi yakatanga kubvunda panguva yekugadzwa kweBrioni spring 2022. Uye zvakanga zvisiri izvo kuti oomph yakabuda kunze kwebasa reStumpfl-nekuti harina.
Kupfurwa, pamwe nekutaura, mukati nekutenderedza imba isingatarisirwe yeimba yakasakara yemachira padhuze neMilan, basa raStumpfl rakaramba riri rwiyo runonzwisa tsitsi rwechirume rwaungada kutamba nekupfeka. Majasi, mabhachi, machira epamberi, uye mabhurugwa ese akagadzirwa kubva kune akadhayiwa akachekwa-chekwa masirika, mamwe airatidza mirairo yekuwachisa (yakachena chete).
Scalpel yakakamura mabhachi akadhirowewa mune yakanakisa cashmere nerineni, tonal mabhachi nehembe muChirungu linen, mabhachi enyanzvi anonyadzisa muJacques Cousteau blues, zvipfeko zvekunze mune lotus-yakabikwa inodzivirira mvura nubuck, uye chic bespoke boiler sutu yerineni / mvere / sirika yakapihwa. mamwe manotsi mukwaya.
Zvichitevera mwaka wapera goridhe rakaonda zvisina kujeka — masutu asina ruvara rwegoridhe, asi egoridhe (ayo aitengeswa zvakanaka mumisika yakasiyana siyana uye akachinja kuOscars), Stumpfl yakavharisa apa yaive bhachi regoridhe nesirivheri remaruva-ish jacquard rakanga rakarukwa. pamwero we 5 centimeters pasvondo. Paivawo necameo inobaya mwoyo zvikuru neshangu dzesirivheri dzaive rukudzo kumudzidzisi wemugadziri, Alber Elbaz: The late great maestro akanga akapfeka peya yakafanana mugoridhe kumuchato waStumpfl.
Aya aingova mashoma mashoma akakodzera kunakidzwa kubva kune imwe inonyengedza muunganidzwa nemugadziri uyu.
Iyo bum note yambotaurwa haina kubatwa nembatya, asi nechimwe chinhu chinobatika asi chinobatika zvakaenzana: Kunyangwe zvichienzaniswa nemwaka wapfuura kugadzwa kweshowroom kwaive nemhepo shoma uye yekuzengurira kune iyi mharidzo - mifananidzo mishoma pamadziro, mishoma yemifananidzo. mannequins, zvipfeko panjanji. Kunyarara kweiyi imba yekuratidzira yeBrioni, tichienzanisa kunyanya neruzha rwevana vakapfeka imba vaimhanya vachipinda nekubuda muBalenciaga padhuze nepadhuze, kwaionekwa.
Sezvo Kering's chete yakachena yemhando yezvipfeko zvechirume zvechirume-uye imwe yakawana nguva pfupi yadarika kubva kune vaimbove varidzi vayo vekuRoma-iyi yairatidzika seyakanyanya kunyarara murondedzero yayo kubvira hombe, bhiza hoo-ha ye2013's runway show pasi paBrendan Mullane paCastello Serbelloni.
Nekukurumidza kumberi kusvika ikozvino, Brioni pasi peStumpfl haakodzere kubvumidzwa kukura nekusaita: Ino inguva yesimba, yekumanikidza, uye yekusimbisa nepamusoro vhoriyamu iyo isina peerless masculine savoir faire iyo nyanzvi dzeBrioni vanadzo kune nyika iri. kukurumidza kudzoreredza havi yayo yezvipfeko zvakanaka zvemhando imwe chete.