Muunganidzwa weGiorgio Armani Menswear Spring 2022 muMilan sutu inogadziridzwa muchimiro chayo, ichipa zano rekubatanidza kumusoro uye pasi: shati yemanheru ine collar yekumira kana denim bhachi-rakachekwa rakasanganiswa nemabhuruku ane madhati akagadzirwa mukati. iwowo pinstripe wool, kana gilet-jacket ine Bermuda shorts.
Muunganidzwa wakazadzwa neimwe pfungwa yekureruka: zvinhu zvisina huremu, maumbirwo anopuruzira muviri, akadzikama uye asina hanya. Nzira yemitambo yekupfeka-yakasimba, yakasununguka uye yakashinga-inogadzirwa nemafungiro emusikirwo uye anokosha sarudzo uye mavara anotenderera kubva kubhuruu kusvika kune jecha hues uye choko chena, ane mapopu matsvuku uye egirinhi anoyeuchidza nyika yezvisikwa - nguva dzose inowirirana, chokwadi.
Kuna Giorgio Armani, iyo hombe reset yakaita hukuru. “Ini pachangu, ndakadzidza kunakidzwa nezvinhu zvakawanda uye kushanda zuva nezuva, ndisingarongi pachine nguva mberi kana kuti kunyanya kunetseka. Uye ndinofanira kubvuma, zvanga zviri hutano kwandiri, "akanyora mune email pamberi pe show yake yekutanga nevateereri kubva muna Kukadzi 2020.
Aya aive mazwi akakosha ekuzviti anozviti anodzora freak, uye fungidziro yatakaona kubva kuArmani mugore rapfuura yanga iri ruvara rwakanaka paari. Izvi zvakaunganidzwawo.
Pane kuti adzokere kwaakasiira — iyo monolithic HQ Teatro inogara mazana masere — akakoka vanhu makumi masere chete kwazvakatangira: imba yake (uye yaimbova dzimbahwe) paVia Borgonuovo 21, uko kwakatora mamwe emitambo yake yengano. nzvimbo. Iwe unoziva zvaive zvakakosha kwaari nekuti akange ashivirira magadzirirwo ekuvaka uye kudzidzira kunonzwika kupindira paidyll yake yemumba kwemavhiki maviri zvichitungamira. Kare muzuva, Armani aitambira zviratidziro mukamuri repasi pevhu repalazzo, purani yepakutanga yeTeatro ine zvigaro mazana matatu uye padhuze nedziva rekutuhwina rine nzira imwe chete remangwanani.
Mubindu rechivanze reJapan, nhanho kubva kumadziro aSilvio Pasotti eArmani asina hembe asina kufa padivi neakararama panguva yake yezana ramakore rechi20 (Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Liza Minelli), airatidza zvinorehwa nemafungiro ake akasvibiswa ewadhiropu yeArmani: akajeka, akapfava, yakaoma, uye zvishoma seksikäs.
Achipa muunganidzwa wemodhiyo yainzwa yakanangana kupfuura zvamazuva ese, akagadzira silhouette yake uye akasunungura mitsetse yakapinza nepfungwa yekuti 'sportswear' yaitaridzika sei pamberi pezana ramakore repakati. Zvichida ndizvo zvinoita zvipfeko zvemazuva ano muna 21st?
Kunzwisisa kwaive kwakajairika pasina kuyambuka munharaunda yeusimbe. "Mafungiro ese akareruka, nekuti ndinofunga isu tese takadzidza kusava nematuru uye zvakanyanya kugadzikana munzira yatinopfeka,"
Armani akatsanangura.
Akatora chimiro achipesana nesutu yenguva dzose, achipa zvizvarwa zvitsva—nechekare—mupfekero wakagadziridzwa wokuti vararame nawo: “Yakafungidzirwazve, saka haichagadziriki blazer netirauzi.” Iye zvino, Armani anotenda kuti 'sutu' inogona kunge iri hembe netirauzi mujira rinoenderana, kana combo yeblouson-ne-trouser.
Kana: jaketi rerineni seArmani-grey raachangobva kugadzirira timu yenhabvu yeItaly, yakafuridzirwa newadhiropu yemurairidzi ane mukurumbira Erzo Bearzot. Ndimi dzakaipa mupepanhau reItaly dzakati bhachi rakaita kuti vatambi vataridzike sevabiki, izvo zvinongoratidza kuti kunyange Armani - mbiru yesartorial accuracy - iri pamusoro pezvipfeko zvechinyakare. “Handifarire vanhu vachipfekwa nembatya pane kudzipfeka. Izvi zvatonyanya kukosha mumamiriro ezvinhu aripo,” akadaro.
“Nenzira yakati, denda rakaratidza kuti hunhu hwangu hwekusashanda uye husingashande hwagara hwakakosha. Uye izvi ndizvo chaizvo zvandinoda kutaura nemuunganidzwa uyu: pfungwa yekunyaradza inowirirana nenguva dzatiri kurarama. " Nepo shanduko yewadhiropu ingangove yakawedzera panzira yeArmani - mini-skorts yevarume yakatsanangurwa kumwe svondo rino yakatsiviwa nekapfupi kapfupi pano - denda remugadziri rinonzwisisika.
Kunyangwe akaenderera mberi nekupa mazano angave ari kutengesa kambani yake, senge runyerekupe rwesvondo rapfuura rekuti Armani ari kusanganisa naFerrari. “Kuti ndienderere mberi nedimikira rekutyaira, ndini ndichiri pachigaro chekutyaira. Ndakavaka zvese izvi mumakore anopfuura makumi mana ebasa rangu, uye ndakaita hurongwa hwakananga uye hwakadzama hweramangwana. Saka, hapana chikonzero chekuti vanhu vazvinetse,” akanyora kudaro mugadziri wacho. Mune kumwe kusimuka kubva mukuita, akatora uta hwake ruoko-mu-ruoko nemubatsiri wake wekutanga, Leo Dell'Orco. Armani, nenzira, haityairi Ferrari. Nekuti paangave ari pachigaro chedimikira chekutyaira, akawedzera, "Ndinofanira kureurura kushivirira kwangu: Ndine mutyairi, uye ndinosarudza kutyaira motokari ini pachangu."
Mutungamiriri: @amaranta957
#GiorgioArmani