Yekutanga Riccardo Tisci mafani, farai! Kubva mugadziri asvika kuBurberry, vanozvipira vanga vachidaidzira kuti genetics isingafe negumi-gore reGivenchy tenure: iro dzvuku-ropa, reza-kumucheto, exotic elegance yakamiswa pakati pengozi nechishuwo.
Mwaka uno, vakawana izvo chete. Yakatorwa munzvimbo yemuguta rerenje neMillennium Mills muRoyal Victoria Docks yeEast London, muunganidzwa wevarume waTisci wakasvibisa runako rwakasiyana nebasa rake mukuratidzira kwake kweBurberry kusvika parizvino. Paive nemareferensi emugero nemakakoti akawanda, asi mukutaura kwawo kwakachena, uyu aive Burberry achidzidza mutauro waTisci kwete neimwe nzira.
˝ Ndaida kuti muunganidzwa utore iwo mweya wakasununguka wepwere nehunhu hwayo hwekutendeseka uye hwekushinga, pfungwa iyoyo yekuedza uye kusanaya. Pane kunzwa kwakasimba kwekubatana asiwo nekuregera - tichikurudzirana nekusimudzirana kuti titaure hunhu hwedu takasununguka. Isimba rakashata kwazvo rinotapukira, rinonakidza uye rizere nehupenyu. Sekumuka.˝
Riccardo Tisci
Akabira maoko kubva muzvipfeko zvekunze ndokuzvivezazve kuita murwi, akakwenenzvera mitsetse yezvipfeko zvemitambo, uye akakwanisa kuita kuti halter-neck silhouette iite sehunky. Mahwendefa echipfuva akaenderera mberi nenhaurirano idzodzo, dzimwe dzakaderedzwa kuita chisionekwi pa t-shirt, ukuwo tambo dzakawandisa dzezvipfeko zvebasa dzichiratidzira zviratidzo zvemafupa nembabvu, zvichidzosa izvo zvinonaka Memento Mori kana Día de Muertos mifananidzo yebasa raTisci rinowanzo kuburitswa. kare. Achisimudza rumwe ruvara rwecheki yeNova, akafukidza chinhu chose mugumbeze gobvu, rakasvibira, rine guruva rebeige, jena, dzvuku, uye dema, nedenga rebhuruu richigutsurira ku“chinhu chimwe chete chatakwanisa kuona” takavharirwa. kusabvumirwa kufamba.
Dudziro yake yemakodhi eBurberry - akagadziridzwa asi akakwenenzverwa - akanzwa kunge ari echokwadi kune yake ethos, wakashamisika kuti sei aive asina kutora nzira iyi nekukurumidza. Pavhidhiyo yekufona kubva kufurati rake reMayfair, Tisci akafunga nezvekugara kwake kwemakore matatu. “Zvinotora nguva kuti mugadziri awane akakodzera paunenge uchishanda mukambani. Kune vanhu vari kunze, zvinoita sekunge unongoenda ikoko uye…” akambonyarara. “Inzira inofadza. Iyo yakakura timu, iyo inonyanya kufadza uye yakaoma uye yakaoma. Saka, zvakanaka kuti tasvika pano. Mushure memakore matatu, kuzivikanwa kwacho kuri kujeka. " Kushandisa zvinosemesa asi mune iyi nyaya inodiwa kutaura: Unozviita iwe.
Yakatemerwa kunze, mamodheru anofamba nepakati pejecha, achifananidzwa nechimiro cheMillennium Mills muRoyal Victoria Docks, London. Mumhanzi weAnthemic neboka rakaumbwa neBritish, Shpongle, unoridza munzvimbo yese. Chiitiko chekubatana chekugadzira.
Tischi's inogadzirisa manzwiro ekusununguka uye kubatana, kugadzira nguva yevechidiki positivity, inotarisana nemweya uye simba remimhanzi uye kufamba.
"Iwe unofanirwa kunzwisisa nhaka yekambani, uye ikambani yakakura kudaro, munyika yakasimba kudaro. Zvishoma nezvishoma, unoona zvinhu zvauri kubudisa. Ndiwo maitiro ako," Tisci akatsanangura. Uchitarisa kumashure pazviunganidzwa zvenguva pfupi yapfuura, unogona kuona nhanho-ne-nhanho nzira yaakatora kuti uwane izwi iri, kuti arege chiratidzo chake chipenye paimba yemafashoni makore zana mukuru wake.
Asi denda rakachinja maonero aTisci: “Ndinonzwa ndiri pamba, kunyangwe ndanga ndakavharika. Nyika ichatangazve, uye kwandiri, izvi zvaive zvitsva. Ndizvo zvatinoda nhasi: kutaura, rusununguko, rusununguko rwemuviri; kuva isu. Iyo punk nenzira yakanaka: kutyora miganhu. "
Kuona nyika ichidzoka—“uye chizvarwa chechiduku chinopenga chinotarirazve!”—Tisci akayeuchidzwa nezvemakore ake okutanga makumi maviri paakatizira kuIndia uye akasvinudzwa maziso ake kune chimwe chokwadi. "Ndakarangarira rave yangu yekutanga muIndia, naShpongle, mumwe weakanakisa DJs mumhanzi wetrance," akadaro, achireva boka rakahwina shoo, "kuita mabiko munzvimbo idzi dzakavhurika, nezvose izvi, nezvose izvi. zvizvarwa zviduku kubva kumativi ose enyika, ndiri ini uye ndichitaura pachangu. Ndinobva kumhuri ine urombo, asi ma<em>rave akanga ari kumwe kwandaigona kutaura ndimene ndokuva pamwero wakafanana nomunhu ari wose zvake.”
Zvichizadza muunganidzwa wake nendangariro idzodzo dzerave, zvakaita sokuti chiitiko ichocho chakanga chichipazve Tisci nzvimbo yokutaura akasununguka.
Style: Ib Kamara
Make-up: Isamaya french
Bvudzi: Jawara
Choreography: Josh Johnson naTosh Basco
Vatungamiriri: Partel Oliva
Mimhanzi: Shpongle