Van Noten akati musanganiswa wake wemahara wekusona uye zvinhu zvakajairika zvakare chiratidzo chekusiyana kweAntwerp, iyo inochengetedza vanhu kubva kumarudzi zana nemakumi masere nematanhatu.
"Isu taive mukati, ndinofunga, kuvharika kwechishanu muno muAntwerp patakatanga kuunganidzwa uku. Uye pandakataura nechikwata changu kuti tikurukure kuti zvingave nezvei, zvaive zvehasha: Takazviita, uye zvino tinoda kunakidzwa, tinoda kutandara, tinoda kunakidzwa nezvinhu, tinoda kuenda. kupinda muguta uye tinoda kuona vanhu.”
Akadaro Van Noten pasi peZoom, achiisa manifesto yake yemwaka unofadza wehedonistic panguva imwe cheteyo achideedzera Peter Fonda-sampled intro kuna Primal Scream's Loaded, rwiyo rwevhidhiyo yekuunganidza yakanakisa yeDVN: "Tinoda kusununguka kuita zvatinoda. kuita!… Uye tinoda kuremerwa! Uye tinoda kuva nenguva yakanaka! Uye ndizvo zvatichaita! "
Pasina kubvunza kana Van Noten nechikwata chake vakaremerwa-nekuti zvinoitika muAntwerp zvinogara muAntwerp-vakave nekuputika kwekuunganidza uku kwerudo kwenzvimbo, kumhanyisa simba kwekuunganidza.
Chikwata ichi chakagadzira folda yakagovaniswa yemifananidzo ye smartphone yakatorwa kutenderera neguta, kubva munzvimbo dzemaindasitiri dzinoyevedza kusvika kune strobe-lit kirabhu shots kuburikidza ne moody pool hall milieus, iyo yakabatanidzwa semadhindigi pamapaki ane mapaneru uye mashati ane silky.
Iyi mifananidzo yakabva yaremerwa ichipokana ne'70s vintage Antwerp municipal logo (sekuzivikanwa kune chero anozviremekedza Sinjoren seI ❤︎ NY meme ndeyeNew Yorker) uye etchings yakatorwa (nemvumo) kubva kune vaviri vevanakomana veFlanders vane mukurumbira, Breughel. uye Rubens. Mifananidzo yakavharidzirwa pazvipfeko yakapfurwa kumashure kwemamwe maguta, kusvika makumi mashanu nematanhatu ayo DVN nechikwata chake vakakwevera podium chena kugadzira bhuku rekutarisa. Pakati pavo vese, rwendo rwechikoro rwepingi muchitarisiko chenhanhatu rwakaratidza humbowo hwekupedzisira hwekuti izvi zvaisave zviitiko zvakangoratidzwa zvehusimbe.
Van Noten akati maitiro ake kuunganidzwa uyu aive: "Chii chinonzi varume? Chii chinonzi womenswear? Ingozvikanda pamwe chete wotora zvaunoda." Zvakajairwa dichotomies zvakashandurwa zvinoyevedza zvisina mu "chipfeko chevakadzi" chitarisiko chine bhurugwa rakagadzirwa, rakareba, uye rakadhayiwa muChirungu mohair pamusoro pemasiraidhi, uye inotyisa "menswear" camo parka uye sutu mune 35 magiramu silk plongée yakamisikidzwa mukotoni voile.
Nenzvimbo yakananga kuAntwerp, asi nekushivirira zvisina tsarukano maererano neiyo geography yetsika dzakagamuchirwa dzechikadzi, uyu wanga uri muunganidzwa waitaridzika chaizvo kuti utakurwe mukati.
MUFANANIDZO Sofie Middernacht & Maarten Alexander
MAKE-UP Inge Grognard
HURU Fabio Petri
Tarisa vhidhiyo yakazara padriesvannoten.com