Kuvhurika, kureruka uye decontraction. Varume zhizha 2022 runway show. Kuunganidzwa kwakagadzirwa naVéronique Nichanian, show inotungamirwa naCyril Teste.
Yakatarwa naCyril Teste, muunganidzwa wevarume zhizha ra2022 unoburitsa mweya wakasununguka wakareruka-moyo uye rusununguko. Precise innovation inobata nhaurirano ine zvinyorwa zvenhaka zvinopa devoré, blurred uye perforated motifs, yakashandurwa pachishandiswa hunyanzvi hwazvino.
"Mafungiro matsva, uye anonakidza." Paakataura izvi, Véronique Nichanian aikurukura nezvechimwe chidiki-mataera (masokisi akasviba anodongorera pamusoro pebhutsu dzembudzi pasi peBermudas). Nekudaro, yake Zoom-yakaunzwa yekutarisa mhinduro yakangoshandiswawo kune iyo yese yakasarudzika yeHermès yekuunganidza zvipfeko zvevarume. Yakaratidzwa masikati ano mukutanga kweimba kudzoka kuchivanze chematombo chaAuguste Perret cheMobilier National kubvira Chikumi 22, 2019 (zuva rekuratidzwa kwayo kwekupedzisira-nguva dzechirimo). Zvakare kuita kudzoka aive ane chipo director director Cyril Teste, yechitatu bhaisikopo/défilé kubatana naNichanian akateedzana.
Semwaka wapfuura, Teste's skrini-yairatidzira zoom uye mapani anotsvedzerera akabvumira avo vaiona vari kure-ini ndakasanganisira-kuburitsa chikamu chiitiko chehupenyu chaihwo chandakatsanangura apo "meso ako anofamba achienda mberi nekudzoka kugadzira rondedzero yakaoma uye episodic ye. maonero aunofanira kudzora.” Musiyano nhasi waive wekuti paivewo nevateereri chaivo paruoko, vachiona iyi yechokwadi livestream (vazhinji havasi), uye vachishandisa iwo maziso avo. Sezvakataurwa naNichanian: "Zvakakosha kwandiri kuti ndisave nefirimu rakagadzirwa kare neakawanda montage ... hupenyu chaihwo nevanhu chaivo vakatarisa nzira."
Kutevera nguva umo hupenyu hwakanzwa husiri hwechokwadi, hupenyu chaihwo hwaive hwaro hwechokwadi. Muunganidzwa wacho waive wakasimba, uchingove nechimiro chemakumi mana nerimwe chete: "Ini ndinosarudza kusave nehembe dzakawandisa, asi kuve nedzakakodzera," akadaro Nichanian. Pakutanga zvaiita sezviri nyore. Asi pawainyanya kubvumira ziso rako kuti rifambe-fambe pairi, ndipo pakanyanya kuratidzwa zvinoshamisa, kuvanzika mukati mezvinongoita sevanhuwo zvavo.
Nichanian akadana muunganidzwa uyu kuti "Double-Jeu," kana "Double Game," uye akazvitaura nenzira dzakawanda. Zvizhinji zvezvipfeko zvekunze, kusanganisira yekuvhura, zvakaitwa mumapeneru e gabardine akasiyana ne "spinnaker," kana canvas, yaive neruvara rwakajeka uye yakanamirwa ne zig zag stitching kuti iite maungira emahara ekufamba nechikepe, kumwe kufemerwa kuseri kwechikepe. pfungwa yemugadziri. Zvakaoma kuona munzira yekumhanya, paZoom yedu, uye kunyangwe murudo rweTeste padyo-pedyo yaive pentimento yakasarudzika yekaviri-layered nhaka Mors et Gourmettes yakadhindwa, imwe chena-pachena, uye dzimwe nguva yakasimudzwa zvakatowedzera nekuwedzera yakapwanya Hermès Quadrige equine relief. Chikamu chikuru chezvimedu zvacho zvaidzorereka, zvichipa kukosha kwakapetwa kaviri uye huviri hwemataurirwo anopfekeka. Iwaya aibatanidza mapaki anochinjika; kuwedzera kutsva kwejasi rekupedzisira reNichanian rakagadzirwa nekaviri rine vheti yemukati yakasiyana-siyana; bhurauzi rakachenuruka mugarwe rakapfava; uye iyo yekupedzisira-yekutarisa zippered bhachi (iyo, inverted, yaive hardware yemahara, yakawanda dialed-down declaration).
Madhindi akaparadzana akaparadzana, paive nekuona kwechisikigo muakasimirirwa intarsia daisy relief knitwear, kuputika kunotyisa kweruvara mune degradé orenji uye pink cashmere majuzi, uye akapfava aisanganisira hembe yakasonanidzwa neseiri uye Bermuda akaungana mune blushy pink lambskin. Kubatanidza kune iyo mhepo yakanyorovesa yedingindira, kufamba nechikepe, mabhandi akagadzirwa kubva tambo uye mazhinji emabhegi akachekwa mucanvas pamwe nedehwe. Pamwe chete nebhutsu dzakaiswa masokisi dziya, pakanga painewo bhutsu dzematehwe ecanvas, dzakaiswa pasi, uye shangu dzematehwe emhuru.
Ensembles dzaNichanian aive akanaka echirume maface aibvumira hunyanzvi hwavo kuti hurambe hwakavanzwa pachena kune vese kunze kweavo vane chiono chekucherechedza. Sezvaakataura: “Ndezvekuzvivhurira nzira itsva dzekuona. Kutamba, uye kutangazve. Nekuti tinofanira kuva nehupenyu hwakawanda, kuwanda. Uye ini ndinogara ndichida kutendeka kwekuita chimwe chinhu pasina logo hombe. "
Zano raive, nemazvo, rekuti kufamba-famba uine zita rechiratidzo pachipfuva chako, bhegi, kana shangu zvinoburitsa pamusoro asi zvisina kudzika. Akawedzera kuti: “Kuno kuHermès, handisi kuita fashoni, ndiri kuita mbatya. Uye ndiri kuzviita nenzira yandinovimba kuti inowedzera ruzivo rwedu uye nekuibatsira kushanduka. " Uyu wakanga uri muunganidzwa wakayeuchidza izvo Antoine de Saint-Exupéry muLe Petit Prince akarondedzera se“chakavanzika chakapfava zvikuru: Kunongova bedzi nemwoyo umo munhu anogona kuona zvakarurama; chinokosha hachioneki neziso.” Aiva mafungiro matsva, uye ainakidza.
