Venice munyika yekuvandudzwa zvakare, kana zvichibvira, inotoshamisa kupfuura nakare kose, nema dolphin anoona achibhejera mulaguna uye vashoma vashanyi vakatenderedza kuti vayemure. Norukundo, dhamu iroro risina kusimba rakanzi rive chiyeuchidzo chenyika nguva pfupi yapfuura, uye panguva imwe cheteyo hurumende yeItaly yakazozivisa kurambidzwa kwengarava dzerwendo dzine gakava dzaikunda guta racho dzichiita sedzaiunzira mari shoma.
Nenzira dzeguta dzinomonereka uye piazzas dzinenge dzisina chinhu, uye kunyange mapavilions muGiardini, (inotambira mipiro yenyika yeVenice Architecture Biennale ichibatana pasi pedingindira rekuti Tichararama Sei Pamwe Chete?) isina kunyatsokurirwa nevashanyi, uto rakatetepa zvikuru. , akanga akadhirowa nyora, azere nemafungiro, uye achifamba-famba munzvimbo dzengano dzeguta racho, zvaiita sezvinonyanya kuoneka.
Aya airatidza kuve mamodheru uye ma brand icons aAnthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, mutaundi kufamba, kutsika, kutenderera, uye kutsveya nzira muunganidzwa wemugadziri wekunyengerera eclectic (kunyangwe kusiyana kwemuviri, kunoratidzika, kusati kuri chikamu chenhaurirano. munzvimbo yezvipfeko zvevarume).
Mukufambirana nekutarisa kwazvino kweguta pamusoro pemikana yezvivakwa, Vaccarello akabatana nemhando yekuzvidza muimbi uye mugadziri wemufirimu Doug Aitken (uyo akahwina Mubairo Wepasi Pose pa1999 Venice Biennale) panzvimbo yekuratidzira kuunganidza kwake.
Aitken akagadzira Green Lens, inoshamisa girazi-yakatarisana chimiro chakaunganidzwa mumwedzi paIsola della Certosa, uye yakadyarwa neinopisa imba sango girinhi. Inoshanda semhinduro kumubvunzo wakabvunzwa neBiennale, zvine hunyoro kusanganisa futurism nemamiriro echisikigo.
"Maseti ese eSaint Laurent ndagara ndichizviita nenzira," Vaccarello akatsanangura, pakudya kwemashiripiti mushure mekuratidzira kwakaiswa mugomba risina denga rezvidhinha zvekare pachitsuwa, "saka zvaive zvakanaka kugovera pfungwa kekutanga nemuimbi wandinoyemura zvechokwadi, uye zvainakidza. Pfungwa iyi yaifanirwa kunge iri yeshow yevakadzi gore rapfuura," Vaccarello akawedzera, "uye nekuda kwedenda takarisimudzira kusvika zvino. Pakupedzisira zvakava nemusoro kuve nazvo muVenice kupfuura muParis, kunyanya neArchitecture Biennale-uye nemuunganidzwa iwoyo, unova musanganiswa wesimba rakawanda raSaint Laurent uye yakawanda yeVenetian 'New Romanticism' Kwete. achivaisa munhoroondo, classical Venetian nzira, asi mune ramangwana nharaunda. Ini ndinofunga mushure meCOVID iwe unoda kutarisa zvakanyanya mune ramangwana kupfuura zvakapfuura-uye ini ndinoda musanganiswa wekare mune mareferensi muzvipfeko, uye ramangwana mune marongero.
Munguva yekuratidzira kwekukurumidza, chimiro chairatidza denga rebhuruu, chiedza chemasikati, uye mvura yegungwa yakapfava ukuwo kupenya kwaAitken kwaichinja mamiriro acho nguva nenguva, zvichiratidza kushanduka kwekuvira kwezuva kana mambakwedza ebhuruu eScandinavian mambakwedza. Yakadzorwa mumagirazi iwayo, dzinza raVaccarello rakafamba rakapfeka mabhachi akaonda kana kupeperetswa mabhurauzi (funga Adam Ant neBritain yekutanga 1980s New Romantics), uye bhurugwa remakumbo efodya rine bhutsu yekunhonga bhutsu yezviziso zvetsoka inotambanudza silhouette yakatetepa.
Mukudzoreredzwa nenguva kwezvisingaperi zvekukwereta zvipfeko zvevakadzi kubva muwadhiropu yevarume yechinyakare, Vaccarello akafarawo kuongorora zvisingaenzaniswi neSaint Laurent matura ezvipfeko zvevakadzi zvinogona kupihwa nevarume, kusanganisira jacquard crepe de blouses nehembe kubva kutanga kwema'70s. , akachekwa majaketi ekuverengera uye spencers kubva kuSaint Laurent's Picasso (Fall 1979) uye Jazz (Spring 1978) muunganidzwa, uye padded brocade bolero kubva muunganidzwa weChina (Fall 1977) yakafungidzirwa zvakare sebhomba uye inopfekwa nejean dema, pamwe nenhamba. yekusiyana kweLe Smoking. Vaccarello akacherekedzawo kuti "paive nezvinhu zvakawanda zvakabva mukuunganidzwa kwangu kwakapfuura kwevakadzi - izvo zvakagadzikana mukupedzisira," akawedzera, "sehembe dzese dzemachira, zvidimbu zvemwaka miviri kana mitatu yapfuura."
Mukukudza kuguta rakatambirwa paive nemutambo weVenetian carnival zvakare mune yaivhuvhuta capes, kusanganisira imwe yakapenya yero sirika yakamutsa muenzaniso wakatadza wakaratidzwa muSaint Laurent's Fall 1983 haute couture show, (uye yakazozununguswa nesocialite Nan Kempner paCostume. Institute gala iyo yakapemberera mugadziri). "Ndinofunga kuti zvainakidza kuona kuti mukomana wechidiki angazvifungidzire sei," akadaro Vaccarello nezvenyaya yake yehukadzi, "Uye ndinofanira kutaura kuti vaingozvifunga, [ingava] shati yerezi, kana shangu dzepuratifomu."