Vetements RTW Chirimo/Zhizha 2019 Paris iri muunganidzwa akatarisana nekutya kwake, achiongorora ndangariro dzake dzinorwadza dzekurarama kuburikidza neGeorgian Civil War.
Kutyora Mitemo ndiyo Mutema mutsva
“Ini ndakaudza mudiki wangu kuti auye kuzoona shoo iyi nekuti kwandiri inovhura misuwo yemibvunzo yakawanda isina mhinduro,” akadaro Demna Gvasalia.
Mushure mekutarisa "nzou mukamuri" muchiso mwaka wapfuura nekudzokera kumidzi yake yemugadziri uye "kune [Martin] Margiela nzira," mwaka uno aive nenyika yake Georgia mupfungwa dzake.
"Mhuri nehondo," akadaro mugadziri, uyo akanga achangobva kudzokera kumusha wake wehuduku uyo wakabhombwa munguva yeGeorgian Civil War.
Kuburikidza nemuunganidzwa, aida kutanga kutaura nyaya, akadaro, kutarisana nekutya kwake "uye nguva dzinorwadza dzandisina kumbo [kugadzirisa] mushure mehondo mumakore makumi mapfumbamwe."
Zvipfeko "zvakajairwa" zvine hukuru hukuru hwakavakirwa pamahoodies aaipfeka semwana, hand-me-downs kubva kuhama dzake.
Ambuya vake vane makore 80 okukura, avo vakatadza kunzwa kwemavhiki mushure mekuputika kwebhomba, “uye kuwanda kwemapendekete avachiri kushandisa,” zvakakurudzirawo.
"Inzira yakatosiyana yekundishandira sezvandaigara ndichiita mashoo ainyanya kutaura nezvembatya," akaenderera mberi Gvasalia mushure memutambo, achiwedzera kuti muunganidzwa wacho wakazvinyora wega - "kudzokera kuGeorgia nguva dzese."
Kutevedzera maitiro
Akaunza vanhu vangangosvika makumi mana kubva kuGeorgia - vana vakamuyeuchidza nezvake paakatanga kuuya kuEurope, mumwe nemumwe aine "imwe naïveté uye izwi ravanofunga kuti havana munyika yavo."Nokudaro kushandiswa kwomugadziri wamasirogani, ayo akarondedzera seanofananidzira “inzwi repwere muhurumende dzezvamatongerwe enyika dzakadzvinyirirwa umo dzisingagoni kuratidzira, hadzigoni kutaura zvavanofunga, hakuna rusununguko chairwoirwo; Ndakararama nazvo.”
Vaisanganisira rimwe rakanzi naGvasalia rakanga riri rimwe remashoko akashata zvikuru mumutauro wokuRussia. (Natalia Vodyanova, uyo akapinda kuratidzwa, haana kuita seane kunetseka.)
Anoraks aive akavakirwa pamireza akagadziridzwa kubva kunyika dzese dzakamukurudzira muhuduku hwake, kusanganisira Ukraine, Turkey neU.S.
Vechidiki vekuEastern Europe
Kunyangwe kana nzou ichiri mukamuri, kubva pakuvhurwa kwetattoo kumusoro kusvika pakushandisa matafura echisvusvuro panzira yekumhanya (pano yakamiswa pasi pebhiriji renzira yemugwagwa muchikamu cheParis, paine techno blaring).
Sezvo mugadziri wechigumi chekuratidzira - Chardonnay yakashumirwa pa preshow bar; Lebkuchenherzen iced gingerbread hearts yakashanda sekukoka kweshow - muunganidzwa, pamwe nemusanganiswa wayo wemigwagwa, normcore, techno-goth uye punk - kusanganisira spiky Reeboks - yaiverengwawo semahitiro ake makuru, nemabhachi akajairwa, madhirezi emaruva ane maruva ane mitsetse. East European-varimi sikavha inotaridzika, hoodies uye reworked denim.
Paiva nenguva dzekusununguka kwechiedza, sepashangu dzevakadzi dzine zvitsitsinho zvakaitwa kubva kumakoini akaturikidzana kana kumusoro-pasi Eiffel Towers, uye masiketi ejira retafura.
Asi zvinovhundutsa, zvefascist undertones zvakasiya fungidziro yakasimba, Gvasalia achishandisa masiki enhema-maitiro ekufananidzira kuratidzira "kudzimwa kwekuzivikanwa" kwaakatsungirira.
Zvaityisa kuona mumamiriro ekunze epasi rose, asi zvakabatsira kurova meseji mune ino autobiographical, yekurapa, #MeToo nguva.