naALEXANDER FURY
Zvipfeko zvaFausto Puglisi zvinopindirana nemafungiro chaiwo, anonyanya kukoshesa e "Italian" fashoni: yakashongedzwa zvakanyanya, ine floridly patterned, ine mavara akajeka, uye, kune vakawanda, zvishoma zvishoma. Ari kumba chaiko muFlorence, iine palazzi yakashongedzwa uye hupfumi hwekumashure hweRenaissance masterpieces.
Zvisinganzwisisike, Puglisi akasarudza kuratidza muchiteshi chechitima chisingashandiswe. Zvichida imhaka yekuti akasarudza kupa chishongo - phalanx yemiviri, murume nemukadzi, senge frieze yeRoma, yakasimudzwa pa plinth uye yakapfeka mupiro wake wekupedzisira. Kureva, muunganidzwa wake weResort kwaari, uye zvipfeko zvake zvevarume zveChirimo 2017. Vakagara pamwe chete zvakakwana, munyika chaiyo yekudarika iyo Puglisi inogara, senge Michelangelo mural via Las Vegas, kana avo ekutanga-'90s akawanda-modhi Gianni. Versace mishandirapamwe yakapfurwa naRichard Avedon. Vakadzi vaipfeka marokwe mapfupi, anopenya-penya mumaruva ane mavara mazhinji ane masiketi ekutsvedza kana mitsetse yakashongedzwa yakashongedzwa naPuglisi kuti ndeyake ( bvisa mhirizhonga nenhaka yambotaurwa yeVersace). Varume vacho vese vaiita senge machismo ekumaodzanyemba eItaly — vanopfuura vashoma vaive nendebvu, dzakafanana chaizvo naPuglisi pachake.
Zvaiita sezvisingawirirani zvishoma—asi neimwe nzira zvaisava zvisingaiti. Iwe unogona pakarepo uye zviripachena kubatanidza zvipfeko zvevarume zvaPuglisi kuVersace, asiwo kune nyowani nyowani inopihwa naOlivier Rousteing kuBalmain. Mazita ese ari maviri anoita bhizinesi rinokurumidza kuvarume-uye vari vashoma panjanji.
Bvunza Puglisi kuti sei akasarudza iye zvino kuratidza varume, uye anokwenya. "Ini ndanga ndichitaura naSelfridges, kana Bergdorf Goodman, kana Joyce, kana Lane Crawford," akadaro, achiratidzira vana vevatambi vake vakuru pamusoro pemumhanzi wairira waiperekedza mharidzo yake yePitti Uomo. “Vakati, ‘Ko kuita zvevarume? Nekuti varume vazhinji varikutenga zvimedu zvevakadzi vako vakakurisa.’ ” Zviripachena pane mukana weumwe munhu asingade kurerekera, kunyanya muItalian fashion landscape, kunyangwe usina kumbofungidzira kuti Puglisi angave mugadziri wewadhiropu yefashoni ichangoburwa. Kunyanya sezviono zvake zvechirume nerechikadzi — idzo dzechirume dzakapombwa dzakapfeka zvipfeko zvemitambo zvinopenya zvichipesana neA-line sketi, vakadzi vane zvitsitsinho zvepamusoro-zvinoita senge G.I. Joe naBarbie.
Nepo rudzi rwevarume vanozoburitsa mari hombe yezvipfeko zvevakadzi, kunyange nhasi, vashoma uye vari kure pakati, kune vakomana vanokwezvwa nekushongedza kwaPuglisi. “Varume nguva zhinji vakasununguka zvikuru,” anotsanangura kudaro mugadziri wacho. “Mukadzi anofunga kuti, ‘Ndiri chic zvakakwana here? I’m sexy too much?’ Nepo murume: Kana uchiifarira, unoipfeka.” Kana iwe uchida Puglisi, unenge wakapfeka mabhachi ebhomba akaiswa masiginecha ake emushonga westarfish nemateko, maketani ari kudonha makorari anorema, T-shirts dzakadhindwa nemifananidzo yevamwari veRoma kana ngowani dzeCenturion, uye shangu dzegladiator dzakaputirwa nemamenduru, dzichiputirwa. kumusoro kumusoro kwegumbo pasi pe shorts rakadhindwa nehothouse blooms kana shredded denim.
Zvakanga zviri, zvakanaka kutaura, zvese zvishoma zvakanyanya. "Ini handina basa nekuravira kwakanaka uye kuravira kwakashata," anodaro Puglisi. Uye pane chimwe chinhu chinofanirwa kutaurwa nezvekuti Puglisi anonyura sei nemoyo wese uye nemoyo wese mumataera mazhinji angangoungana zvechokwadi mune yekupedzisira. Zvinogutsa zvakare. Nenzira isinganzwisisike, zviri nyore kuona mutengi wehembe dzake dzechirume pane dzevakadzi vake, saka zvitarisiko zvacho zvaigona kudhonzwa patsanurwa kuita zvinhu zvekutaura-kashongedzwa bhomba, yakashongedzwa pfupi, T-shirt yakashongedzwa-uye yakasanganiswa nezvimwe (zvichida, zvishoma zvakashongedzwa) zvinhu. Zvimwe imhaka yekuti murume wePuglisi haana kuvimbika semukadzi wake. Iwe haunganetseke mashoma ake akareruka, mabhachi ekamuri anotsvedza mukati mezvipfeko zvake zvechikadzi, uko kutaridzika zvakanyanya sese kusiri kwekutya, kwakawanda kwevimbiso. Asi pamwe mamiriro acho achadzoserwa kumashure mune avo vatengesi vepamusoro; waigona kufungidzira mukadzi wePuglisi achinyura muwadhiropu yemurume nekuda kweaya mabhomba ane mabhomba.