Pakutanga gore rino, Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation yakabata Raf Simons. Vakabvunza kana aida kushanda navo pane chimwe chinhu. Akati hongu. Ndiyo shorthand vhezheni yenyaya kuseri kwemuunganidzwa waakapa paPitti Immagine Uomo, akakwana akazara neduo reMapplethorpe kuratidzwa kuLACMA uye Getty Museum, uye HBO documentary subtitled Tarisa Mifananidzo. Yakanga iri nguva yakafanira. Uye Simons iMapplethorpe fan, saka yaive muimbi chaiye. "Ndakakudzwa," Simons akadaro mushure mekuratidzira kwake, izwi rake richidedera nemanzwiro. Saka akazeza zano raaishanda pairi rekuunganidza (haaizoburitsa kuti chaive chii; zvingadaro, akadaro, kubuda mune imwe shoo) akatanga kushandira pamwe kwake kwemutambi.
Kazhinji, apo Simons anoshanda nenyanzvi, anosvika kwavari. Panguva ino, iyo dynamic yakanga yati fambei. Rupo rwekupa kweMapplethorpe Foundation kunoratidzwa murupo rwekududzirwa kwaSimons: Hapana chipfeko muSimons's Spring 2017 chiratidziro chisingaratidzi kudhindwa kwemifananidzo yeMapplethorpe. Mamodeli ake echirume ane vhudzi rakamonana, ane ngowani dzebhasiketi dzematehwe zvinonyevenuka, aiwanzofanana nemutori wemifananidzo pachake - kunyange Simons akataura kuti, panzvimbo pemadoppelgängers emuimbi, "mukomana wese anomiririra basa." Mumwe nemumwe anogona kunge ari Mapplethorpe sitter. Mashati aivhuvhuta aive nemumvuri weMapplethorpe ane mukurumbira muse Patti Smith pavhavha yake yebhiza reMabhiza. Robert Sherman, modhi ane alopecia akaita kuti ganda rake rifanane nemarble mumifananidzo yake yakawanda yakapfurwa naMapplethorpe, akapindawo pashoo. Simons aifanira kujekesa kodzero dzebato rechitatu nevamiriri vese vasati vaburitsa mifananidzo yavo. Yakatanga nhaurirano yakaguma nekunyudzwa pachikamu chaSimons mubasa raMapplethorpe.
Izvo zvichitaurwa, nyanzvi yakazvigarira yakawanda. Mapplethorpe aive munhu anonakidza, uye hunyanzvi hahugoneke kubva kumurume. "Kana iwe ukafunga nezvebasa, rakawanda nezvake," akadaro Simons, uye, zvechokwadi, zvaive zvakanyanya nezvehembe dzaaipfeka, zvakare. Parwendo rwekuzvitsvaga kwepabonde, yakawanda yemifananidzo yekutanga yeMapplethorpe yaiva yePolaroid self-portraits, yakasungirirwa mumagetsi ematehwe, kuedza miganhu yekunakidzwa uye kurwadziwa. Gare gare, akanyora masvikiro ake ezvepabonde; chiitiko cheganda uye BDSM zvakanyanya. Zvipfeko zvaive chikamu chakakosha: Pane imwe nguva, Mapplethorpe akatanga kutambanudza zvipfeko zvake (zvakasakara) mukati memapuranga emapuranga kuti agadzire zvivezwa zvisina kujairika; gare gare, akazvipfekedza amene nedehwe dema.
Simons anoziva zvese izvozvo. Saka chokwadi chekuremekedza kwake kuMapplethorpe ainzwa akatenderedzwa, ane shungu uye ari chokwadi. Hunyengeri hwemareferenzi akawanda aSimons hwakapa hudzamu hwekuratidzira-palette yake yedema; chena; mvere dzakapwanyika-dzitsvuku, pink, uye ruvara rwepepuru; uye burgundy yeropa rakabatana; machira ematehwe anopenya nesimbi. Simons akapedza masikati maviri achitenderera muMapplethorpe akachengetwa emapepa ekusangana. Akanetsekana nemazwi echiRungu kuti atsanangure aya: Akavadaidza kuti "mamepu," inova pfungwa inonakidza uye inomutsa kana ichishandiswa pakutsvaga kwaSimons, kutsvaga nharaunda nyowani yeMapplethorpe, kumuita kuti anzwe akakodzera uye anonakidza kuchizvarwa chitsva. . Ndizvo zvaaiona sebasa rake.
Ini ndiri Mapplethorpe fan zvakare. Handina kukwanisa kuita asi kubatanidza chiratidziro ichi kukufarirwa kwaMapplethorpe nemafuremu, nekupa mufananidzo wake chinhu chine mativi matatu, chivezwa chemhando nekugadzira uye matting mumavheti akapfava nematanda ekunze, achibatanidza mifananidzo kuzvinhu. Kuita mafoto ake akawanda kupfuura angangotanga kuoneka. Simons akagadzira mifananidzo yeMapplethorpe nemucheka, asi ndokuzoimisa pamuviri: mufananidzo wakadhindwa patabadhi, toti, wakakwiridzirwa nemaketeni ejaketi rejaketi, kana kuratidzwa paT-shirt pasi pejazi rakasununguka. Simons akakwevera akananga kumifananidzo yemaruva yeMapplethorpe, mifananidzo yake yakasarudzika yezvidzidzo zvine mukurumbira saDebbie Harry, akabatwa mumakona echiedza, uye evatambi avo Simons anoyemurawo, saAlice Neel, akabatwa vhiki kana kupfuura asati afa zvinoshamisa 1984 mufananidzo. Bonde raivemo zvakare; Simons akasimbirira pane izvozvo. Ijasi rakadzika-rakavharika rakatendeuka risingakanganwi kuti riratidze mufananidzo we erect phallus.
Akashandisawo mutsara wekuti “curation” kutsanangura iyi show: “Ndaida kuiona seshoo yemumiziyamu, kana kuti shoo yegalari. Izvo zvave zvichiitwa kazhinji kana zvasvika kune basa reMapplethorpe. Cindy Sherman akazviita, David Hockney akazviita. Asi nguva dzose mune gallery. " Simons akafinyama. “Ndiri mugadziri wefashoni. Ndaifunga kuti dambudziko guru raizova rokuzviita munzvimbo yangu ndega.”
Mamiriro ekuchengetedza akaitirwa pfungwa inonakidza, kunyanya munguva iyo vagadziri vazhinji vakakodzera uye vanonongedza pasina kiredhiti - uye apo vanhu vazhinji vanokanda izwi rechiito rekuti "curate." Zvinotaridza hunhu hwaSimons — aneruremekedzo, akanyarara, ane hungwaru — kuti akaona muunganidzwa uyu kwete sezvisikwa zvake zvine mufananidzo waMapplethorpe wakanamirwa, asi sekubatana kwakafanana neshow yegalari, uko basa rake raive, zvishoma muchikamu, zvakanyanya. ratidza mabasa aakapiwa. Asi kwaivawo kushandisa mabhuku iwayo kutaura nyaya itsva, inofadza, uye inodenha. Kuti utiratidze chimwe chinhu chitsva kubva kune chinonyatso zivikanwa, uye nezvakawanda zvinoonekwa, zvinyorwa zveMapplethorpe. Izvo pasina mubvunzo akaita.