Alexander McQueen Guga/Xagaaga 2016 London

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Samuel Taylor Coleridge's 1798 "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" ayaa maskaxda ku soo dhacay markaan markhaati ka nahay bandhigga Sarah Burton ee The Arches ee Southwark maanta. Moodooyinka badda, makhluuqa khuraafaadka ah, iyo dawaarka Edwardian ayaa ka hadlay socdaal taariikhi ah oo ku saabsan badaha furan. Dareen khatar ah oo soo fool leh oo loo isticmaali jiray in badan oo ka mid ah bandhigyada Lee McQueen ayaa ka adkaaday iftiinka bannaanka ee bannaanka sida xiisaha xunxun ee gudaha iyo dibedda uga soo baxay dhawaaqa dambeedka. Iyada oo bandhigga Quruxda ee Savage uu weli ka socdo Matxafka Victoria & Albert, way adag tahay in lagu daweeyo bandhigga maanta qiimaha wejiga iyada oo aan la xidhin dhammaan jacaylka mugdiga ah ee qarsoon iyo fikradaha xiisadaha gudaha dib loogu celiyo xusuusta Lee. Haddii tilmaantu ay ku jirtay martiqaadka, waxaa jiray sawir nin ka mid ah feeryahanka Fiktooriya oo leh ereyada Bright Indhaha oo ku sawiran gacantiisa: "Marka wax walba ay cidlo yihiin, waxaan noqon karaa saaxiibkayga ugu fiican." Mawduuca kelinimada waa mid caadi ahaan la wadaaga dhammaan jahooyinka shakhsi ahaaneed ee McQueen, Coleridge, iyo Mariner - iyo sidoo kale waxay dhacdaa inay noqoto midka ugu dhawaaqa badan ee ururinta.

Xooggeeda, sida xaaladdu ahayd xilli-ciyaareedkii hore, waxay ahayd mid sax ah oo la jaray. Muuqaalka daah-furka cad ee indhaha ee Fiktooriya ee laabta ku yaal ayaa ka dhawaajiyay damaashaadka Sarah Burton ee deyrtan/Jiilaalkii u dambeeyay. Run ahaantii, badmaaxiinta maanta waxay u muuqdeen kuwo aad u qallafsan, laakiin waxay u sahashay qaybo badan oo jihayn ah. Garaafyada jihada Cardinal iyo barroosinno lagu qurxiyey bajamas oo la isku dubariday kuleejyada tuubooyinka ciidamada badda; indho-shareer bir ah oo dalooliyay koofiyado aad u weyn; iyo dildilaaca badda oo la soo koobay, la jarjaray, oo la jarjaray dharka cashada. Waxaa jiray casriyeyn loo sameeyay tolida oo aynaan in muddo ah arag: cidhifyada cirifka ayaa la gooyay, dhexda waa la gooyay, iyo faahfaahinta (sida jeebabka) oo dheeraad ah. Bandhiga crescendo-ed ee saddexdii qaybood ee ugu dambeeyay oo leh bandhigyo dhiig-buuxa ah oo soo jiidasho leh oo xayawaan badeed ah oo laga soo qaatay khariidadaha Medieval ee qarniyadii 16aad iyo 17aad kuwaas oo si fudud ugu soo bixi lahaa sheekooyinka Coleridge. Dharka nidaamka ee xidhay bandhigga ayaa calaamadeeyay ururinta wakhtiga ugu habboon; socodka ayaa ahaa mid aad u fiican.

Sida ay u socoto, Burton had iyo jeer waxay yeelan doontaa dhaxalka Lee McQueen oo soo socda guriga. Laakin khibradeeda ku wajahan soo jiidashada xudunta taageerayaasha Lee ee aadka u kacsan, iyada oo loo marayo isku dhafka quruxda badan ee xiisaha iyo riwaayadaha, waxay u qalantaa ammaankeeda. Bandhiga maanta waxa uu ahaa muujinta awooda Burton uu u leeyahay in uu iska saaro dharka qiirada badan leh kaas oo lagu doodi karo in uu ahaa taabashadii ugu danbaysay ee shaqada Lee - dil kale oo siman oo ku nool ilaa heerkii guriga.

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